Cascade 1500 canister filter media setup

Trying to figure out a whole home audio setup that works well with Home Automation AND let me bridge a Zone with speaker wires ending in a different spot than all others

2023.06.10 18:24 labxplore Trying to figure out a whole home audio setup that works well with Home Automation AND let me bridge a Zone with speaker wires ending in a different spot than all others

Trying to figure out a whole home audio setup that works well with Home Automation AND let me bridge a Zone with speaker wires ending in a different spot than all others
I'm trying to plan an whole home audio setup that can be automated/integrated with HA but found out that speaker wires for Zone 2 end in a different place (Box B) than all other wires (Box A) :(

https://preview.redd.it/41iv1rwmu75b1.png?width=1054&format=png&auto=webp&s=fb9deb7cd5699ad1ffdd216ad4006dd7caf51b26
Details I know so far:
  • Would like to setup 5 independent zones with the ability to combine some. Most common combinations will be Zone 1 + 2, 1+2+3 and 4+5.
  • Input sources would be various: Media server, TV (wireless so may need a BT bridge or something), Airplay, Musical Instruments (thinking 2.4GHz transmitter to Media server), HA announcements. No more than 3 sources playing at the same time.
  • Speaker wire is 16 AWG, 4 wires where each run can be connected to a pair of speakers. All runs EXCEPT ZONE 2 end in the same place where the media serveHA server is. This is where I plan to place the Amplifier too.
  • There is a conduit with CAT5E between Box A and another location very close to BOX B, where I could try to pull new cable/wire if needed.
  • Ceiling speakers will be 8ohms (6ohms min) and 100-150W max.
  • Audio system would be used about 10%-15% of the day, so auto-sleep, auto-shutdown or independente zone shutdown would be helpful for power savings...
  • Entire setup should be local-only ( no cloud based, subscriptions solutions )
  • My first thought was to go with a Monoprice 6-zone amplifier or similar options but I'm getting stuck on how to connect Zone 2 wire speaker to the rest of the setup to allow for Zone 1+2 or 1+2+3 output.
Thoughts / Questions:
  • Would an amp like the Monoprice well suited for the type of speakers/power requirements?
  • Should I just run a new "patch" speaker wire between A & B and bridge that terminate on audio ports + banana plugs and connect to the other speaker wire already there for Zone 2?
  • Is there a setup that let me "cascade" the main Multi-zone amp with a local small amp just for Zone 2 but still centrally controlled + integrates well with Home Assistant?
  • Other options I haven't considered? (Sonos setup has a higher price tag but what concerns me the most is the past "brick-it" company behavior...)
  • Also taking suggestions on the best way to connect the TV and musical instruments wirelessly to the media serveamp.
submitted by labxplore to homeautomation [link] [comments]


2023.06.10 14:56 Lollicupcake How long do your canister filters last?

We began our aquarium life about 16 months ago. We started with a 30 gallon tank and hanging filters. We quickly increased our tank size to 70 gallon with a canister filter. It was a MarineLand canister filter. Everything was great. Tank looked great, fish doing well, had a great cleaning cycle. And then about 9 months into that canister it died. Just stopped. So we quickly ordered a replacement of the same type and got it set up. This hasn’t been going as well but the tank is relatively clean and we kept on the same cycle (vacuum weekly except when we clean the filter media and change the pads once a month). Now 6 months later, canister filter died. Literally just stopped. Not during cleaning, just sitting at my desk and it stops. What gives? Is this just a crap system?
What do you all recommend? We don’t have a backup at hand to wait on warranty to stop dragging their feet so we are going to pick one up today but I can’t keep forming out 200-300$ every 6 months on a filter.
submitted by Lollicupcake to Aquariums [link] [comments]


2023.06.10 14:39 TilenOman50 Seeking Advice on Telescope Setup for Visual Observing and Planet Photography

Hi all. First and foremost, I would like to express that I'm not 100% sure about anything at the moment, so I would greatly appreciate your advice. I'm new to this hobby but have a strong desire to fully immerse myself in it.
I would like to clarify that initially, my focus will be on visual observing and planet photography. However, I am also interested in exploring the possibility of photographing galaxies and other deep sky objects in the future (not with this telescope).
Before I go ahead and buy anything, I wanted to get your opinion on this setup:
OTA Sky-Watcher MC 127/1500 SkyMax
Mount Sky-Watcher HEQ-5 Pro
Camera Canon EOS 600D (used)
Dew shield ???
T-Ring, T-Adapter ???
Power supply ???
Filters ???
Barlow or reducer ???
Additional eyepiece ???

Now, I'm seeking your recommendations for the parts mentioned as "???" because I'm unsure about what to buy. I understand that not all of these parts are necessary from the start, such as a dew shield and filters. However, I have some specific questions. Firstly, do I need a barlow lens or a reducer for my setup? Additionally, I have a 25mm and a 10mm eyepiece for my OTA, but would it be beneficial to invest in additional eyepieces?
Another question I have is regarding the T-Ring or T-Adapter for my camera. I'm uncertain whether I'll need to use a barlow alongside my camera, so any advice on that would be greatly appreciated.
I have been searching for an answer on the internet, but I haven't been able to find a clear one. So, I would like to ask: Do I need guiding for observing and photographing planets, or will the motorized mount be sufficient?
I am from Slovenia, EU. I'm going to buy a few things from Astroshop.eu and others from amazon.de.
My apologies if I missed any important details. If you have any specific questions or need more information, just let me know! Thank you so much for your help and support. I really appreciate it! :)
submitted by TilenOman50 to telescopes [link] [comments]


2023.06.10 04:51 awa54 Some listening notes as I get acquainted with my new Saga+

The lead-up:
So far I'm finding the bypass mode to be the "best" for my tastes, for a number of reasons ...many will disagree with this opinion, but they don't have my ears, my musical preferences, my exact hardware setup, or my listening room.
I prefer neutral systems and like the sound of my sources enough that I don't want to alter them in any way.
I'm offering my perspective, because lots of "I like" and "best sound" verbiage has been tossed around in regard to the sound of this component, all of which is irrefutable (since it's opinion), but not something that we will all agree on and frequently pretty vague, so I'm going to make an attempt at being a bit more descriptive, it's probably not going to be a revelation for anyone, but I'll try anyway.
This post is covering use with only two tubes and it's based on just a couple of days ownership and a handful of listening sessions, I'll update the thread as my impressions become more informed/opinionated and when I have more tubes to review (they're coming).
*
The system:
All electronics are on a Target welded steel rack, the top shelf is accurately leveled for TT use.

Rega Planar 2 with 3x large IsoBearings replacing the original hard rubber feet
AT-120E MM cartridge (aligned using Mo-Fi Geo Disc system, 1.8g tracking force, anti-skate adjusted using inner groove method)
AQ Wildcat to phono preamp 1.5m

Parasound P/PH-100 phono preamp
AQ Diamondback to Saga+ .5m

Cambridge Audio Azur 851N streameDAC
Media supplied via ethernet cable through a local network hub (1GB), from Serviio software on a dedicated Win 11 mini computer, all data is stored on 1TB 2.5" SSD (not a system volume)
AQ Viper to Saga+ .5m

Schiit Saga+
AQ Viper to amp 1.5m

Adcom GFA-5400
AQ Gibraltar to speakers, single bi-wire configuration, spade lugs at all positions 8ft.

PSB Stratus Gold i, upgraded with doubled AQ Type 4 cable run from crossover to woofer and individual runs of AQ CV-4 from crossover to midrange and tweeter
Speakers sit on 4x hockey pucks each
*
All gear that doesn't have 3 pin power plugs has had correct plug orientation confirmed by measuring voltage between chassis ground planes, all components are plugged in to a Monster cable surge suppression strip that also has some light RF filtering. nothing else is plugged in on that leg of the electrical system.
*
Music sources include CD rips made with Exact Audio Copy at 16bit/44kHz in FLAC format, as well as downloaded FLAC files in 16 or 24 bit depth, 44, 48 and 96kHz. The one record I played was a 12" LP promotional maxi-single, this was definitely not made from a 2nd (or higher) generation stamper as it was distributed in very limited numbers, it also has some big bass, which is the other reason it was chosen.
Music genres were electronica, rock, folk, jazz and ambient, instrumental and vocal music (both male and female vocal). No classical music was harmed in the making of this review.
*
The listening:
My take on the stock tube (an anonymous Soviet era 6H8C unit that looks identical to some Sovtek branded units available from retailers as NOS and billed as a 6SN7GT (though some sources claim they're GTB spec), is that it's absolutely awful fresh out of the box ...but had improved to the point where it's moderately competent after running several hours and got even a bit better running over night.
The good is that it isn't at all noisy (this preamp is quieter than many solid state units, when in buffer mode), has OK image depth and localization, doesn't gloss, soften or harmonize over the music overtly and runs very cool.
The sonic "badness" of this tube is entirely made up of things that more sonically colored, or lower resolution systems and poor source material might not meaningfully reveal ...but there *is* quite a bit to criticize, as it collapses the sound stage width by about 20% and depth by 30% (referenced to bypass/passive operation), it also has a sort of soft halo or circle of confusion that surrounds all the voices and instruments making them larger than in bypass, as well as adding a noticeable "wooliness" to them. On top of that transient attack is softened and decay is largely lost in the soft haze... for reference, this is a pretty nit-picky criticism, and the "haze" is hard to describe, since it isn't an audible noise floor ...it's kind of like; if the bypass mode has empty black space surrounding all the instruments, then the tube has a soft charcoal gray as the backdrop. It actually sounds like a slight compression effect. Last and in my opinion, least forgivable, is that it softens and slightly accentuates bass (only emphasizing maybe 50 to 150Hz, which masks overtones and reduces perceived detail?), while suppressing true sub-bass (my speakers have useable output below 25Hz and the room reinforcement takes that even lower, so I hear this effect clearly on a lot of tracks).
*
The other tube is a 1940s(?) National Union 6SN7GT, with black "silvering" inside the upper portion of the envelope. It's used, but has *perfect* triode balance and gm measures at more than 100% of new spec. This tube sounded similar to the supplied tube (*after* that one had broken in!) when cold, and stopped audibly "improving" after about two hours of use. It runs somewhat hotter than the tube Schitt supplied, but still nothing like higher power output tubes.
This tube shares in small part all of the failings of the other, but only in *very* small doses, maybe 20% or less as noticeable as with the 6H8C. It also has an *ever so slight* euphonic sweetness, but it's not overt the way that many tube gain stages are. I expect that some systems might not resolve the differences between the bypass and buffer modes with this tube in place, losing both the good and bad properties in their own lower resolution and tonal coloration (effectively rendering the tube buffer transparent). The sub-bass deficit and less than black background still bother me, but are both much less objectionable than in the 6H8C. The NUs sonic signature, subtle as it is, is even useful in taming the sound of some bad recordings, since the ever so faint reduction in resolution and softer, sweeter presentation counter a portion of the harshness. Some listeners will undoubtedly feel that this makes the tube "better" than bypass.
*
Phono listening gave the same results as digital media, but didn't reveal the sub-bass issue (since there usually isn't any on an LP), the slight bass lift and softening was heard though.
*
Now some comments on the passive/bypass mode: it's virtually indistinguishable from a direct connection to the Cambridge streamer: detail, stage width/depth, image placement, tonal balance, all fully intact as well as dynamics and the amazing bass slam and drive that this component delivers (which it does without any compromise to the subtlety of the music). An A/B/X comparator setup, with matched levels might reveal *something*, but turning off, cable swapping, then powering up again between listening, leaves me with the feeling that all I did was swap remotes, not add or remove a component from the chain.
*
I have a theory about the sub-bass effect when in the tube buffer mode: it's that the Saga+ effectively increases the output impedance of the Cambridge unit (despite being created to *improve* that parameter), which in turn compromises the bass drive... The streamer has a fairly beastly 46 ohm output impedance, while Saga+ is 180 ohms (very good by tube standards). It's not like my cables are reactive, or the Adcom is a tough load to drive, but I think it may be just enough to have caused the suppressed sub-bass output.
*
That's all for now.
submitted by awa54 to Schiit [link] [comments]


2023.06.10 03:11 Training-Self4950 I wont be a disappointment

Today Is the last day I'll play video games and use social media platforms (instagram, facebook, messenger) I'm going dark and wont come back until a month. The sad part about this is that I already made this decision exactly a month ago from today, but because of my procrastination and laziness I have made 0, ZERO!!! Improvements into my life, infact I made it even worst over the past 30 days. My screen tome has sky rocketed to 12HOURS daily, there were multiple times I only showered once every 4 days, ate only about 1500 calories a day and most of it are from chips and ice cream, My pimples are getting worst like I literally look like I have a rice field on my face, and on top of that I've been watching NSFW content non-stop. And let me tell you I've been in this lifestyle since march of 2020, 3 whole years!!. I really dont want to disappoint my friends, they were really happy for me and even rooted for me to change. It would probably break them if they knew i made absolutely no progress for the entire month.
I already made a workout routine, diet plan, goals to achieve and how to achieve them, sleeping pattern and basically a self improvements program. I'm not really a begginer on self improvement so I'm pretty confident in this program I made. On top of that I made a contingency plan whenever I try to look up NSFW content my phone automatically locks for an hour and this setting can not be removed by rebooting the phone or by simply just "deleting" it, to make sure I dont get tempted I changed to a browser with a filter.
starting tomorrow, I will post my achievements of the day and I will have you all updated on what's going on in my life. It's currently summer so it's the best time to focus in my self. Today is the last day I'll linger in my sad current state. May God help us all.
Goals for the next 30 days:
•3 hour phone screentime max (20min per hour) •None or atleast lesser pimples on my face •2500 calories daily, 60g protein (bulking) •Complete 11 workouts •Conplete 11 plyo workouts •increase vert (current vert 29 inch) •increase height (current height 174cm, age 16) •Sleep 10 hours daily, 300 hours in a month, 9pm lights out •Nofap 30 day •learn basic russian atleast 1st grade level russian
submitted by Training-Self4950 to selfimprovement [link] [comments]


2023.06.10 02:53 Francis_Shaw How to implement adult-content filtering on your devices/local network

As-salamu alaykum.
So I've seen a lot of posts on this subreddit asking for information on how to setup technical restrictions against accessing websites that host pornographic content on the Internet.
I have a background in networking and network security, and personally implement some of the following controls on my personal devices to prevent even accidental access to sites that host sexually explicit content. So I thought I would share some knowledge here in the hope that it would help people here.
I'd like to preface this by noting that there are multiple solutions available to restrict what sites can be accessed. You can do this either on a specific device/host exclusively, or across the entire network as a whole, which in turn applies filtering to every device on the network.
I don't know exactly what type of solution is most fitting to your environment, but I'll cover both host-level and network-wide content blocking capabilities in this post. I'm not going to dive into protocols; because that knowledge isn't required and if you want to learn more, the Internet is available for that.

What is a blocklist and is DNS sinkholing?

  • A blocklist is simply a resource which computers, which act as DNS resolvers, examine before making a decision when handling DNS queries. In easier to understand words. A blocklist is a list of websites that host specific unwanted content or are known to be 'bad' i.e. not reputable/malign. This can be adult content, gambling, social media, advertising, trackers, malware, typosquatting domains etc.
  • DNS sinkholing is a method of content filtering whereby computers, which act as DNS resolvers, purposely fail to resolve DNS queries. Or by resolving the query to a non-routable address such as 0.0.0.0. In easier to understand words, when a device attempts to query the address of a specific website that exists in a blocklist, the DNS resolver will point that device to an address which can't be reached. In turn blocking access to the site.
Anyway

Host-level DNS filtering using a configured resolver

The easiest method to block adult sites is to use a public DNS resolver that is configured to filter websites that host adult content/pornography.
Essentially you configure a DNS sinkhole resolver as the recursive resolver for your device exclusively. Your device will send it's DNS queries to the external resolver, the resolver will examine it's blocklist database to see whether the site you requested is present. If it's not, it will resolve the query, thus sending you to the site. If the site is present in the blocklist, see the definition I wrote for DNS sinkholing.
If you don't know how to configure a DNS server on your device, Google has provided a comprehensive guide on how to do this for their DNS service on popular operating systems. Just replace their DNS server address with the one you want to use.
This webpage by AdGuard provides a a list of reliable and reputable public DNS resolvers available. Simply find the addresses that correspond to 'Family' or 'Adult' filtering for each service.
Some examples:

Host-level DNS filtering using software

This is another method to use DNS filtering on a host. This method requires installing a piece of software that will allow you to customise the DNS filtering configuration further than simply specifying a resolver.
This is also generally quite easy to deploy. Software required is generally in the form of a mobile application, desktop program or web browser extension. I recommend either an application or program.
After installing the software you then need to configure the blocklists. This is generally quite easy and only requires you to specify the web address of the raw blocklist.
An example is AdGuard

Network-wide DNS filtering

This method is a bit different. This can be deployed on your home wireless/wired router, or an always-on server. For example, a Raspberry Pi, or any computer that you would leave powered on 24/7. You can also do this using virtualised hardware, although this will require you to spend money.

On your router

This method is dependent on whether your router supports specifiying DHCP or upstream DNS server addresses.
  1. First you need to access the routers web interface using a web browser. This is usually 192.168.0.1, 192.168.1.1, 10.0.0.1 or 10.1.1.1. If it's not one of these, you'll need to find it out. NordVPN have written a good blog post on how to do this.
  2. After you've got your routers local address, head into a web browser and input the address into the address bar to access the web interface. After this, you need to log in to the interface using the username and password of the router. Lifewire have written an article on how to do this, including how to find your username and password.
  3. After you're into the interface, you can now adjust the default DNS settings. Find the section of the web interface that allows you to specify either both, or one of, the DHCP DNS address or DNS upstream resolver. And similarly, you paste/type in the address of the public DNS resolver that uses filtering. See the host-level section for examples.

On an end device (local DNS recursive resolver)

This method uses specialised software which you will need to install. The most commonly used software solutions for network-wide filtering are PiHole and AdGuard Home. They are both free and open-source.
I'll briefly explain how this works.
  1. Install and setup your local resolver.
  2. Access the web interface of the resolver and configure blocklists, rewrites, DNS upstream resolvers and other settings.
  3. Change your routers DHCP DNS address to that of your newly setup local resolver.
  4. Reboot the router to force all devices connected to the network use the local resolver.
To learn how to do steps one and two, please visit the GitHub repositories for AdGuard Home or PiHole whichever one you want to use.
If you're not familiar with Linux and don't want to learn, I would recommend against this method. However, I would also note that AdGuard Home supports Windows, but I haven't tried this.

Host-level hosts file filtering

This is another method of host-level filtering. Let's say you don't want to use a DNS service to filter content and want to manually control what sites can be accessed on your device. Well, you're a madman/woman.
The hosts file wasn't intended for this purpose and I wouldn't recommend this method, but it's good if you only want to block a relatively small pool of sites, or configure a number of rewrites. I'll get to rewrites in a second.
A hosts file is simply a blocklist that is stored locally on your device. On Windows you can find the hosts file at C:\Windows\System32\drivers\etc\hosts and on *NIX at /etc/hosts or /private/etc/hosts.
These guys have made a good blog post on how to edit and save your hosts file.
When you're editing your hosts file simply add the web address of the site you want to block, then ensure the IP mapping is 0.0.0.0
An example: 0.0.0.0 www.google.com
You can also paste entire blocklists within your hosts file however I would also advise against this.

What are rewrites?

Rewrites are simply specifying an exact address for a specific domain, instead of sinkholing the query.
For example, if I wanted to send www.explicitsite[.]com to 142.250.187.206. Which is the IPv4 address for a server hosting www.google.com
You simply add the mapping: 142.250.187.206 www.explicitsite[.]com to your hosts list without the square brackets. From now on, when you visit that site it will redirect to google.com

Forcing 'Safe' search within search engines

I also wanted to touch upon this as it can be very beneficial. This is where rewrites can be quite useful.
You might be aware of the 'Safe' search feature within common search engines. This feature filters out explicit content from search results. However, this can usually be disabled quite easily.
DNS rewrites can force the 'Safe' search function within a search engine by forcing the client to go to the 'Safe' version of the search engine every time the domain for the engine is queried.
* This can't be done if you can't access your hosts file or you're not using host-level DNS filtering in software.
* This can be done if you can access your hosts file, using AdGuard Home/PiHole, or you're using host-level DNS filtering in software.
The following links show you how to specify rewrites to lock safe search for both Google and Bing.
If you use another search engine you can probably easily find the safe search address for your engine if it's available.

Pornography blocklists I recommend

(Use the 'raw' links to add them to your filtering software)
Also look into regular expressions and adblock and hosts file filtering syntax if you want to customise the filtering configuration even further.
That's all from me. If you do have any questions or are stuck, read the material I've linked first, then drop a comment and I will try to help. And if anyone thinks I missed something out, or that they can add to this in the comments, please do.
submitted by Francis_Shaw to MuslimNoFap [link] [comments]


2023.06.09 20:10 aidentooreal12 Moving tanks

hi I have a few questions today for everyone, I’m moving all my tanks across country and am transporting 60+ pieces of live stock. How I plan to do this is simple 5 gallon buckets with a cycled sponge filter for each one and a battery powered airstone pack ran off a large battery bank (should give me 6 more hours than needed it will drain the battery bank THEN the actual battery on the air pumps) so this is how I’m doing the transportation….middle of June inside the cab of my Kia soul so temp isn’t as much of a worry for me.
When I arrive I have 20 10 gallon tanks for my clown breeders and a steel shelf set up, I am going to need to add sand to those and wait for it to settle( I have a pretty strong canister filter im hoping I can run on each one for 10-15 minutes so It can clear the sandy fog that gets made…I’m going to use the plate method still though) I’m also moving my 90 gallon and a few other tanks I’m going to have to do the same thing with. the question with this is how long should I expect to wait before adding fish to these tanks from the sandy cloud…hoping less than 12 hours but I’m prepared to water change the transportation buckets and use a heater in the bathtubs to keep temps up. I’ll also add I have 20 lbs of LIVE rock for each 10 gallon and cycled filter media for all aswell.
With these descriptions anything anyone has a opinion on that may be better done in another ordechanged completely? What would be the best way to add sand so I can add fish asap? It’s all transplant cycle so I have gotten 600 gallons of salt ready to mix at the new location already so that we can do 10% wc Incase the transplant cycle isn’t enough to start with. This way isn’t ideal but it’s a sudden move for family and can’t really do it any other way. just over all I guess I’m asking if this is a good way to do this or should I switch it up?
submitted by aidentooreal12 to ReefTank [link] [comments]


2023.06.09 19:04 GrassGreedy Home Theater Recommendation

Hi Everyone,
Looking for a recommendation for a new projector for my home theater. I currently have a viewsonic PX701-4K which is fine, but looking to upgrade.
Room is about 20 feet long by 14 feet wide, and I have a 140" screen setup.
Room will be dark when i use it, so lower lumen projectors can work.
Willing to spend up to $3000 USD
Open to a used / refurbished projector to get a higher end model within my budget.
Using it primarily for movies (Action, Sci-Fi).
I have an apple TV 4K to stream movies, but always prefer 4K Blu Ray when possible (meaning when i have the time to go to the store and buy physical media lol).
Looking for something with the best picture quality, color accuracy, 4K HDR. Ideally something that can have the entire image in focus (I notice on my viewsonic the center of the image is in focus, but the edges always blur just slightly)
Would like something to last for several years.
The "LG CineBeam UHD 4K Projector HU70LAB" caught my eye for the price ($1500 on amazon), with the BenQ HT5550 and HT4550i For the reviews I read so far. Would one of these be the best option? Something else?
Thanks!
submitted by GrassGreedy to projectors [link] [comments]


2023.06.09 10:04 Mundane_Fly9165 Getting the Best Deal: Storm Proxies Pricing

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submitted by Mundane_Fly9165 to u/Mundane_Fly9165 [link] [comments]


2023.06.09 05:24 low_maintenanceSB How is my tank set up?

How is my tank set up?
Hi all! I’ve been lurking for some time, trying to learn as much as possible, and today we finally began cycling the tank for my son’s future axolotl. My current setup is a 20 gallon long tank with an Aqueon QuietFlow 20 filter. I was able to get some seeded filter media and that’s what is currently running in my filter. My thermometer, clip fan, SeaChem Prime and API test kit should be here any day. I’m also still searching for a siphon to use for cleaning but will be sure to have that on hand before we get an axolotl. How does everything look? (Picture 1) I have a few specific questions that I’m hoping you guys can help with:
  • Are all the items in the aquarium safe for an axolotl? It’s for my 6 year old son and he picked everything out. I didn’t ready anywhere that the silicone type things cause issues but would like to double check.
  • I have a metal screen on top but I read those can rust and leech into the tank water. Am I okay to keep the screen or should I lower the water level and ditch the screen?
  • Speaking of water level, the filter instructions said to fill water to 1” below the top of the tank. Is my filter too far in the water or is it ok where it is? (Picture 2)
  • The lady at our local store who gave me the seeded media said to take the insides of the filter out and stuff the seeded media in there. How long does the seeded media stay in? Is there ever a point where I can put the original contents of the filter back inside? (Picture 3)
  • My dad built the tank stand and the wood has several layers of poly to protect against water damage. The aquarium is level on all sides but the stand wobbles ever so slightly if the stand is brushed against, hands placed on it, etc. It was perfectly solid on the concrete garage floor but I think it’s the carpet making it a little less stable. I am planning to anchor the stand to studs in the wall. Will this suffice or would you recommend a different stand?
We also plan to put in an air stone, another hide and some java fern.
I think that’s all I have for now. Just trying to get this right so that I’m teaching my son correctly. I’ll be helping him with tank maintenance for quite some time but would like him to take on some of the responsibilities when he gets to an appropriate age.
Thanks so much!
submitted by low_maintenanceSB to axolotls [link] [comments]


2023.06.09 05:19 low_maintenanceSB How is my tank set up?

How is my tank set up?
Hi all! I’ve been lurking for some time, trying to learn as much as possible, and today we finally began cycling the tank for my son’s future axolotl. My current setup is a 20 gallon long tank with an Aqueon QuietFlow 20 filter. I was able to get some seeded filter media and that’s what is currently running in my filter. My thermometer, clip fan, SeaChem Prime and API test kit should be here any day. I’m also still searching for a siphon to use for cleaning but will be sure to have that on hand before we get an axolotl. How does everything look? (Picture 1) I have a few specific questions that I’m hoping you guys can help with:
  • Are all the items in the aquarium safe for an axolotl? It’s for my 6 year old son and he picked everything out. I didn’t ready anywhere that the silicone type things cause issues but would like to double check.
  • I have a metal screen on top but I read those can rust and leech into the tank water. Am I okay to keep the screen or should I lower the water level and ditch the screen?
  • Speaking of water level, the filter instructions said to fill water to 1” below the top of the tank. Is my filter too far in the water or is it ok where it is? (Picture 2)
  • The lady at our local store who gave me the seeded media said to take the insides of the filter out and stuff the seeded media in there. How long does the seeded media stay in? Is there ever a point where I can put the original contents of the filter back inside? (Picture 3)
  • My dad built the tank stand and the wood has several layers of poly to protect against water damage. The aquarium is level on all sides but the stand wobbles ever so slightly if the stand is brushed against, hands placed on it, etc. It was perfectly solid on the concrete garage floor but I think it’s the carpet making it a little less stable. I am planning to anchor the stand to studs in the wall. Will this suffice or would you recommend a different stand?
We also plan to put in an air stone, another hide and some java fern.
I think that’s all I have for now. Just trying to get this right so that I’m teaching my son correctly. I’ll be helping him with tank maintenance for quite some time but would like him to take on some of the responsibilities when he gets to an appropriate age.
Thanks so much!
submitted by low_maintenanceSB to axolotls [link] [comments]


2023.06.09 04:44 Lovegasoline Oase Biomaster Canister Filter on a Turtle Tank: Anyone have This Setup?

I'm curious to hear feedback on turtle keepers with the Oase Biomaster filters (non-turtle Biomaster feedback is also welcomed).
I have a single male 6" Red Ear Slider turtle in a 37 gallon tank (yes tank is a little small but max size due to space limits). I need a new canister filter and am considering the Oase Biomaster 600. My turtle is fed in the tank so like most turtle tanks it gets messy with bits of pellets, bits of lettuce, and the turtle's excrement.
One concern on the Biomaster is the vertical pre-filter cylinder that's included inside the canister (comprised of several tube shaped sponges stacked onto a tube). The coarsest pre-filter sponges that Oase sells is 30 ppi. Is that coarse enough to prevent clogging for notoriously dirty turtle tanks? I'd actually like to see a 20ppi or so pre filter sponge stack.
My current filter is the no longer manufactured Rena/Api-Filstar XP3/XPL canister filter. I place a coarse tubular sponge over the end of the intake tube, which provides a bigger surface area to collect the largest tank debris and help keep the canister sponges and media cleaner. I change that pre-filter weekly ... before I began using it the intake strainer fitting would rapidly clog and become obstructed.
Care to share any observations?
Thanks a bunch.
submitted by Lovegasoline to Aquariums [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 15:33 Gagetheguppyman [FS] North Georgia - 450 75G Tank with stand

[FS] North Georgia - 450 75G Tank with stand
75G Tank, with Stand, Cascade 1000 Canister filter, Fluval 207 Canister filter, Finnex Planted 24/7 HLC Light, 160LBS of Substrate, and some plants if you want them. (Fish Not Included)
submitted by Gagetheguppyman to AquaSwap [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 14:27 theeverydaykitchen Top 8 Best Bagged Vacuums for Any Home 2023

Editor’s Choice: Hoover WindTunnel MAX
"An upright model that boasts of two true HEPA media filters to keep your home ultimately clean and allergens-free."
Best Upright Vacuum: Soniclean Soft Carpet
"With its patented Soniclean technology, this vacuum will suck even the most stubborn, hidden dirt!."
Best for Arthritis: Oreck Commercial XL2100RHS
"Lightweight and comfort-oriented, this vacuum makes cleaning up a breeze for anyone. Works well on all surfaces, but best used for carpets."
Budget Pick: Miele C3 Cat & Dog
"An incredibly lightweight model that comes with a huge pack of bags and filters."
Best Commercial-Grade Vacuum: BISSELL BigGreen Commercial
"A super versatile bagged vacuum cleaner with adjustable height, extension wand, a crevice tool, and a dusting brush included."
Best Long-Cord Vacuum: Kenmore 600 Series
"A canister vacuum with an extra-long cord, most useful for homes with carpets and pets."
Best for Pet Hair: Hoover T-Series WindTunnel UH70120
"Easy “contactless” clean-up and pet-hair oriented. With this model, you can be confident that every nook and cranny of your home will be hair-, dust- and dirt-free!."
Best Warranty: Miele Compact C1
"A modern vacuum from a manufacturer who knows his stuff – you can be confident in your purchase with the 7-year warranty and the versatile cleaning abilities of this model."
submitted by theeverydaykitchen to thebestvacuumcleaners [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 12:57 Eaglenger Best Free Courses for Thursday, June 8, 2023

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submitted by Eaglenger to Udemy [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 12:53 smartybrome Best Free Courses for Thursday, June 8, 2023

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submitted by smartybrome to udemyfreebies [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 12:52 smartybrome Best Free Courses for Thursday, June 8, 2023

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2023.06.08 12:32 Vertigo722 Restoring an old concrete pond; I did it all "wrong"

Restoring an old concrete pond; I did it all
I inherited a quite large, neglected, 40 year old concrete pond. It was completely overgrown, it didnt hold water and had large visible cracks. Can you spot the 70 cubic meter pond?
https://preview.redd.it/3fcdgzrukr4b1.png?width=1671&format=png&auto=webp&s=ccfb6ee8545fcd59a9618d8611f3d84bf1abcfde
After some excavation:
https://preview.redd.it/f3wn5sialr4b1.png?width=1671&format=png&auto=webp&s=53f62cdf97b7635320cf3fe38431c66676b6590e
https://preview.redd.it/2os9p84klr4b1.png?width=1671&format=png&auto=webp&s=4c0e087943327ad4d23b745de237b2d0926c5a46

And yes, Im sad that Japanese cherry tree had to go, but it was terminally ill. Maybe ill replace it.
I have googled and searched advice on fora, on reddit, and from professionals over the past few years on how best to proceed. Then I decided to ignore almost all of it.
"Mistake" #1: concrete instead of EPDM.
No company I found was willing to fix my concrete pond. They where scared the existing concrete was rotten, the rebar rusting, it would just crack again, they couldnt guarantee it.. Even when I suggested using the existing pond as just a big hole to make a new reinforced concrete one in, they refused. Everyone said, dig it all up, or put in a liner; but due to the complex organic shape of the pond, the enormous circumference that would need a new border, I just didnt see a liner as very feasible, - or very pretty.
I considered an epoxy or PU coating, but given the size of my pond, that would get very costly, and if the concrete cracks moved too much, there was no guarantee a coating would even hold. Its also something I can always add on top, but I cant go fix the concrete underneath if things go wrong.
So i did it myself. Having absolutely zero experience with masonry, not even knowing the difference between mortar, cement, grout and concrete, I googled and experimented, and finally did it the easiest way: just add a new cement layer with reinforcement mesh/ fabric over all visible and suspected cracks.
https://preview.redd.it/qpufzkonlr4b1.png?width=1671&format=png&auto=webp&s=52d27a0f93dfe3e4591c9649bad727e200bce084
I used a pure sand / portland cement mixture, only added a clay colored pigment on the top coats, and a plasticizer - a local product called Compaktuna, that improves adhesion, water resistance and flexibility. Its something very well known here, all masons here use for just about anything cement or concrete, especially if its exposed to water, but it doesnt seem very well known abroad. Im sure there are similar products elsewhere.
https://preview.redd.it/qflthqeqlr4b1.png?width=1671&format=png&auto=webp&s=5a16aa79ae2d5e2cbfdcdad21a539684b1f10152

https://preview.redd.it/odg0xewulr4b1.png?width=1671&format=png&auto=webp&s=99ab1886dbfa1d73680430ab4f87421d77b4412b
I did a first (few) layer(s) last year, filled the pond up, and crossed my fingers during an unusually harsh winter that, despite my efforts to keep water flowing, resulted in 30cm thick ice.
https://preview.redd.it/fn1jwnveor4b1.png?width=1253&format=png&auto=webp&s=2f8162f162b991e9935da97fcab6c61359506b8d
It held up, no leaking, no cracking. Its too early to proclaim victory, it may start leaking or crack next winter or in 5 years. But liners can leak too, and now that I know what to do, if the concrete or cement lining cracks again, its really not that difficult to fix.
What will be very difficult to fix, is the fact the pond isnt level. Either it was constructed like that, or, more likely, it sank unevenly, but the left side of the pond is some 5cm higher than the right. Thats a bummer, I only noticed that after fixing it and filling it up. The only plan I have to "fix" that, is hide the higher border with plants :/.
Mistake #2: add fish prematurely, dont cure or acid wash the cement.
I mostly drained the pond again this spring, keeping just enough water to keep my lillies alive, so i could add a bunch more concrete and cement to hide some pipes, create some more planters and work on the swamp filters.
https://preview.redd.it/ru8ym9jlqr4b1.png?width=1253&format=png&auto=webp&s=e9a267069fb8733aae09acdfac379cab3168060e
I kept the swamp filters under water during the work, but the plants I had planted the previous year, just wouldnt grow. I wasnt going to add fertilizer to my water, and I couldnt wait, with the pond only filled 1/10th and the work not done, I added some sacrificial baby test koi, also to help get the nitrification cycle going.
Everything I read about concrete ponds said I should let it cure for several weeks, then acid wash the concrete, then cycle the pond a few times before it would be safe to introduce fish. But I couldnt find anywhere what actually would be dangerous about cement. And everything I read about curing cement and concrete said: if you can, cure it under water, it will be much stronger. So I did that, screw the fertilizer-fish, I kept the cement wet for half a day until it was dry-ish to the touch, started filling. The water became cloudy, and I would monitor the water and fish as the water rose, but if it killed the fish, so be it.
It didnt. My baby koi did just fine. In fact, if anything, my water quality measurements improved as the water level rose and more cement cured under water. Im using ground water that is very soft but has relatively (though not dangerously) high nitrate levels. I wasnt surprised at all when my GH hardness went up, as the cement would give off calcium and other minerals. Saves me from buying GH+. I expected PH to shoot up too, cement is supposed to be quite alkaline, but it didnt, PH remained steady around 7-7.5. What did surprise me was that the nitrate levels actually dropped, even though there where hardly any plants yet, and the ones I had wherent doing very well.
Later i found some scientific papers that describe how portland cement can and is used to reduce nitrates and anions in general from polluted ground water to make it safer as drinking water.
https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s42247-021-00271-w
Not saying you should all deliberately add cement to your ponds, much less to drinking water, the chemistry is way above my head, and all kinds of more toxic chemicals might be added to various cement mixtures - but "pure" portland cement is clearly not as toxic as some would have you believe and it might even be beneficial.
Its been fully filled for over a month now, I had to add some KH+ because KH remained very low, but now all water parameters I test for are perfectly fine, my fish are thriving, the plants are finally doing ok. The water is fairly clear, but will turn greener on some days, I fully expect that may get a lot worse before it gets better. But it wont be the cement.
https://preview.redd.it/v7u7gtruqr4b1.png?width=1253&format=png&auto=webp&s=69c2298cebe78822b48dc9185909d3ca2f4caa1b

https://preview.redd.it/2plbvvrsor4b1.png?width=1253&format=png&auto=webp&s=ef9b72d1fa19492b1213c167903747081b22b65c

Mistake #3: lava filter.
I spent an ungodly amount of time thinking how i could add a biological filtration system to this pond, with its organic but highly impractical shape, without digging tunnels under the pondm drilling drainage holes in the concrete, or having too much unsightly pipework going in and out of the pond. I also needed something (large) that worked as a skimmer, as the pond is under some oaks and lots of stuff falls in to it. A little floating skimmer or a pond net alone isnt going to cut it.
I ended up doing what almost everyone in the koi forums will tell you not to do: lava beds. I used the two shallow lobes of the kidney shape. In the left one, I pump water from the bottom of the pond through a mostly hidden pipe to under the lava, via a mesh of perforated pipes distributing the water.
(Many more pipes where added later and looped in to each other).
It then flows through the lava over the wall, back in to the pond.
On the right, larger lobe, I do the opposite. I made some 3d printed floating skimmer doors in the retaining wall, and a pump pulls water through those doors from underneath the lava (through another mesh of perforated tubes) and sends it back in a jet aimed at the bottom of the pond.

https://preview.redd.it/474h88nkrr4b1.png?width=1671&format=png&auto=webp&s=d35cd6d22233e782c18dc6ace5e322f5dde9de37
https://preview.redd.it/2io6t7dyqr4b1.png?width=1253&format=png&auto=webp&s=90e434d1845e5e67119e6a77e8820c5b180deed3
On hindsight, I should also have put in aeration lines in those filter beds, I may still do this.
So far, my koi have not swam over the skimmer doors, but Im sure they can and eventually one will, but the water level in the skimmefilter is high enough that they can swim there and possibly find their way back.
Is this setup ideal? No. I know lava isnt nearly as efficient as "modern" filter media or moving beds or whatever is in vogue today, but I cant hide these filters, I want them to look natural, be a place for most of the plants and be a part of the pond. If I where to design a pond from scratch, I would do it very differently, and definitely make the filter areas larger, but I have to work with what i had, and I hope 3 cubic meter of lava will be enough, especially since I dont plan on a heavy fish load. If need be, I may add another even larger or at least deeper lava bed at the back of the pond in the coming years.
How will I clean it? Well, I probably wont, or not much more than picking up large debris in the skimmer area once in a while. I know, lava is supposed to clog and all that, but Im encouraged by the ponds of 2 neighbors, who use (what looks to me like seriously undersized) lava filters for their over stocked and over fed koi ponds. The filters havent been cleaned ever and both ponds (and koi) are 15+ years old. Their water is crystal clear, they dont even do systematic partial water changes, and only one has a problem with high nitrate levels because the lava bog filter's surface area is way too small and cant fit enough plants.
And even if it this system doesnt work well enough, it wont hurt, I can always add pipework and an external filter or swamp area, but I hope that wont be needed. Until then, ill just enjoy my mistakes !
https://preview.redd.it/9mem8nsrqr4b1.png?width=1253&format=png&auto=webp&s=6bd62a2501bc2f8653ab58448525d6da0ed7943c
submitted by Vertigo722 to ponds [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 03:53 Stegzi New tank update

New tank update
Added these guys in (pairs of 3, 6 total) 2 males and 4 females. So far so good, they do seem a bit shy and are hiding most of the time. It has been roughly 24 hours. This is my first time with Cichlids, I’m assuming this is pretty normal? Please let me know if you have any suggestions with the tank setup. Details: 55 gallon, internal canister filter and bubbler filter, all artificial plants. The Buddha’s head has openings in the back where they can hide. Water is currently sitting at 78f. I plan on giving these guys 2 weeks to acclimate and introduce 6-12 more fish once the tank settles to these guys.
submitted by Stegzi to Cichlid [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 01:00 WontGiveUpTheShip Green and Brown Algae Issues - Need advice

Hey, guys! I'm on my first high tech tank ever, and am about 2 months into the setup. I've got green hair algae and brown diatom algae everywhere. I used to keep a low tech planted tank for years, and never had this much algae. I have no idea where to start on diagnosing it. I can't imagine it's too much light on this deep of a tank? The fish seem super happy. The plants are growing like crazy, other than the Monte Carlo that melted at first but is now coming back. Ammonia = 0, Nitrites = 0, Nitrates range from 10-50 depending on when I last dosed the ferts. Tap water is 6.7pH, but I dose CO2 so it goes below that. See below for more. All relevant details below, but if I missed anything that would help the community help me, let me know.

Details:




Pics : https://imgur.com/a/Ng8856M

THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!
submitted by WontGiveUpTheShip to PlantedTank [link] [comments]


2023.06.07 22:33 Oscarzoroasterdiggs Buying a used aquarium, what do I do with the current inhabitants?

Buying a used aquarium, what do I do with the current inhabitants?
So I’ve made arrangements to buy this 20-gallon tank later this evening from a local. This person is moving, so won’t be able to take it with them—which is my gain. The tank comes with filter, lid, light, heater, bubbler, thermometer, along with various tank decorations and supplies (testing kit, fish food, vacuum/siphon, water conditioner), all for $100. Basically I feel like this is a steal.
The issue here is that there are currently various tetras living in the tank: 5 embers, 2 neons, and a yellow glofish. I’m happy to house these fishies once I get the tank going/re-setup, but it’s only now occurring to me to wonder what to do with them in the meantime.
I’ll be transporting the tetras in a 5-gallon bucket, and I’ve asked the seller to put the filter media in the bucket as well (hopefully I’ll save enough beneficial bacteria to not have to re-cycle the tank). I’m planning on buying all new hardscape and substrate (currently the tank has a ton of algae-covered gravel, which I am going to switch out for aqua soil so I can plant the tank), but I won’t be able to make it to the fish store until tomorrow at the earliest. Then I’ll have to set up the tank, add the substrate, water, get the filter going, etc., but this will probably take a few days, no? So what do I do with the tetras in the meantime?
I think I have a few options, but I’m open to suggestions in case anyone has any better ideas. I have two smaller tanks established, a 2.5-gallon with 12 cherry shrimp (one of whom is currently berried), and a 6-gallon with a male plakat betta. Perhaps I could do some kind of musical aquariums and move them around? My current ideas:
-Put the betta in the shrimp tank, the shrimp in the bucket, and the tetras in the betta tank? -I do have a 4-inch cube breeder box, I suppose I could put the betta in that and add the tetras to his tank, although I doubt he’ll be happy with me if he has to stay in there for a few days. 😅 -I could just leave the tetras in the bucket for a few days, but I’m worried about the water being unfiltered. What do I do here, water change every day or two? What about heating the water (is the 20-gallon heater going to be too much for the 5-gallon bucket)? -Put the tetras in the betta tank and the betta in the bucket? With the theory that he’s more hardy and would be fine in a bucket longer than the tetras. -Try to do some kind of fish-in cycle? I could rush the set-up of the 20-gallon tank and add fish to it without giving it a few days. It seems like it would be easier to do this with the hardier betta (with the tetras in his old tank), but I’m loath to do this. Ultimately I’d like to keep housing the tetras in their old home and maybe try and move the betta over—so I don’t want him to get territorial in the 20-gallon and freak out when I add tetras, I’d much rather have the tetras established in there when I try adding him to the tank.
TL,DR: anyone have any better ideas of what to do with my new tetra friends? I’m trying to figure out a way to not traumatize anyone (either the new buddies or my old), and avoid overstocking things for a week or two.
submitted by Oscarzoroasterdiggs to Aquariums [link] [comments]


2023.06.07 22:17 YouLeaveMeNoChoice Pre set-up help please

Hello! I have been researching and have started purchasing things to begin my tank setup. My plan is to have a 20 gallon, planted aquarium with a betta (probably female), and hopefully some shrimp and perhaps another type of fish, if the betta is chill.
I have some questions I am having a hard time finding answers to. I went to a local Aquascaping store, and they suggested a dark start to begin the cycle. I had been planning on a plant in/fish out cycle, but I don't mind waiting if the dark start is a good idea. I bought Aquasolum for substrate. I initially bought a sponge filter and air pump at a chain pet store, but the aquascaping store recommended UNS Canister Filter instead. They said there's an attachment that makes the flow suitable for a betta fish. So my main question, if anyone has time to help me out -
Would you recommend this filter for a planted 20 Gal community tank, and if not what would you recommend? Also what else, if anything, do I need to buy to go with it? With the sponge filter I bought, I got the air pump but realized it also needed tubing and a valve purchased separately.
So to sum up:
If you have any suggestions for setup, or see any problems I would love to know. I had a female betta who I really loved like 15 years ago, but I foolishly believed that the betta in a large vase with a plant was appropriate and she only lived like six months. I've always felt terrible about it, and I want to do it right this time.
I would love for the tank to be as much of a happy ecosystem as possible. Happy to do water changes of course, but I would love recommendations for the best tank mate groups that work together to keep the tank balanced and happy too. Shrimp, snails, Cory catfish?
Thank you to anyone who took the time to read all that! I really appreciate any guidance.
submitted by YouLeaveMeNoChoice to bettafish [link] [comments]