I went to get fitted for irons last week at a brand-agnostic shop that had some really great reviews and was really excited going into the fitting because I've never done one before. I started taking lessons last year and have made progress with my current clubs that are about 15-20 years old, but have felt it's finally time to explore a modern set of irons.
At the fitting, I felt a little inconsistent on the mat. I had some great shots and some bad ones. I would feel that I turned my hands too much and would pull the ball or accidentally push the face for a fade/slice. The fitter said it wasn't a concern and we would remove those from the shot samples when reviewing the 3-5 shots per head/shaft.
I wish I could have taken more swings with each head or shaft to really get a better sense of how each of them truly felt, vs. hitting only just a few shots before the fitter felt like he had seen enough with the numbers. I told myself I should trust the process and there's a reason the place has great reviews, so I didn't put up much of a fuss.
When it came down to the final head/shaft pairing, I had some good shots that went mostly straight but had a few that went further right than I would want. The fitter didn't seem concerned because it was consistent. I had gone into the fitting thinking that I would dial in a head and shaft and be able to consistently hit it relatively on-target, but with such a small sample size, I'm having trust issues. The club felt good to me, don't get me wrong, but directionally-speaking, I wasn't 1000% convinced yet. (But maybe that's because I've just never swung other clubs before...?)
Another thing I'm struggling with is the head/shaft combo I ended up with were getting me and additional ~20yds compared to my current clubs. I stressed that I wasn't worried about distance with my currently clubs as I'm a fairly long hitter, but the fitter basically said longer is better and that in order to fix yardage gaps I could do a wedge fitting/gap analysis after getting the irons and seeing how the yardages play out with each club.
I was fit for the Mizuno JPX923 HMP and have read on the GolfWRX forums that there's a gapping issue in general with those clubs. I've sat here wondering tonight I should have asked to try the 923 Forged head, or maybe even consider a combo set between 4-7 for HMP and 8-GW for the Forged... that would at least give me some more control in my short game and hopefully better gapping. If I were to just get the 4-PW HMPs, I fear that I'll have a gap between a new PW (which I'm guessing would be 160 yards based off my fitting) to my existing 52° wedge that goes 110 yards—a potential 50 yard gap in what I'd consider to be a pretty crucial yardage for my game as a long hitter off the tee. This would be concerning, yeah?
Anyways, I still really would like to get some new irons but I wasn't expecting it to create a new problem for me and my game within 160 yards. The last thing I want to do is buy new clubs, have issues, and then have to sell them or wrack my brain on how to "fix" them. I've waited like 20 years to do this right.
Any advice in addition to just chilling the F out? :D
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TLDR; Got fit, didn't love the process/wished I had more time to swing the head/shaft combo that I was fit for to test it more thoroughly, wished I could have discussed gapping issues at the fitting, and am currently driving myself mad reading club discussion on GolfWRX, watching YouTube video reviews, and trying to find where exactly I can buy this custom iron set without forking over $2,300 for the head/shaft I was fit for.

I have seen few reviews on here as well as golfwrx, and it seems like most of the sim numbers for v3 is similar to v2, nothing significantly different. I was hoping it would spin less on the driver while keeping relatively high spin on irons and wedges. Any of you guys that have played it, can you feel/notice any significant difference? Thanks in advance!

TLDR: biomechanics and swing plane should be considered before we start trying to copy or emulate another golfers swing or when we are analyzing another golfers swing especially in regards to swing plane. The article below gives a formula that I have yet to test in action.
So, I’m an ex-baseball playecoach and now attorney. Essentially, an over analytical mess on a golf course that swings too hard.
I had standard length clubs but felt they were too short (I’m 6’1”) bc I was bent wayy over at address, but I also know I’m all torso with short legs. So, I started digging and then had my clubs lengthened bc basically my arms are relatively short for my height, which helped a lot.
Long story short, it occurred to me that my body type is relatively unique and that my swing plane and posture at address would likely be different than someone else’s bc of the long torso etc. I stumbled on the article below and it made a ton of sense. The writer basically has a formula for the optimal plane of the takeaway (below, on, or above shoulder) based on wing span to height, and down swing (hip plane, torso plane, or shoulder plane) based on forearm length to length of upper arm. Really interesting stuff.
According to the article’s formula, I should have a flatter back swing (shorter wing span than height) and steeper angle of attack (longer forearm vs upper arm).
Moral of the story/takeaway: is when we are looking to emulate a pro’s swing or another player’s swing, it is important to find one with similar biomechanics. Otherwise, you are trying to fit a square peg in a round hole so to speak.
https://www.golfwrx.com/181715/biomechanics-and-how-they-affect-swing-plane/

I see people all the time getting a free replacement for TaylorMade whenever their gear breaks and I find myself in a situation where that would be helpful. Just cracked the sole of my SIM and tried submitting a warranty claim on TM’s website but they said it needed to be purchased new within 2 years of the damage. I bought the club lightly used on GolfWRX classifieds in November of 2020. Am I screwed here or is there still a way I can get a replacement?

I have been going through a couple of forums recently, and was just curious what golf forum was everyone's favorite? I would think mine would have to be GolfWRX for golf content and Reddit for memes/entertaining videos.
View Poll

GolfWRX just posted a run-down of some new product offerings from Adams Golf. Looks like they're sticking with the Idea name. The driver is reminiscent of the older TM M1 and the irons look ok for a beginner market. The wedges and putter are intriguing to me. C Groove might have to sneak its way into my bag.
https://www.golfwrx.com/712783/5-1-3-pm-et-adams-golf-is-back-with-direct-to-consumer-idea-offerings-c-groove-putters-for-2023/?utm_source=Front&utm_medium=Featured_Center_Top&utm_campaign=GolfWRX_OnSite&utm_content=main

Hi all, I figured this would be a great story to talk about the role of fitting in golf, what may be in store for players, and other things you may want to keep in mind when you enter a fitting.

Background

Last year I had been fitted into a 10.5 Rogue ST Max LS Driver head with a 45.75" Tensei White 65 X shaft. While the fitting was okay, I felt like there was quite a bit left on the table for me to take care of post-fitting, and I didn't really want to go back to this fitter for another round with mild satisfaction. I play off a 0/+1 index and fine tuning driver was to me the clearest path that I would need to get my handicap index lower based on the on-course performance. Those of you who know me from my other work on equipment discussions will probably enjoy this work.

Known Issues

While fitters can vary in their expertise, there remains some myths that clubfitters do push onto patrons that are... annoying. #1 is this ignoring of the shaft's performance or letting it fall to the wayside while changing driver head specs to "fix" this oversight in fitting. Ultimately this is what I suffered from and paid for it dearly with significantly reduced performance because the shaft didn't fix how I swung the club. There is a bad reputation in the industry where fitters will wave their hands and push customers out the door with a "well I tried my best now go away" attitude or imply the magic of "club technology" will fix an ill-fit piece of equipment.
For this driver and shaft, there was no testing of different shaft lengths, or really even shafts at all (I believe I hit maybe 2 models), or lies, and we had tested different clubhead models to put a bandaid over the effects because my fitter wanted ball flight to look a certain way off Trackman, and we didn't fit using my gamer ball, but range balls instead.
In the end, I was told Tensei White because I swung fast (110 in the fitting, +4 AoA) and because I can swing fast, the shaft was perfect for me. Statistically the dispersion across the face was closer, though I swing very consistently so while that was nice the dispersion wasn't really getting closer to the center of the face and there was something a bit off about the Tensei White, though the other shaft I tested was objectively worse. Ball speed hung around 160, but if I really gave it a cannon shot it would hop to 170/175 but felt awful on my wrists.

Being Fed Up

I think this whole thing blew up because I had hurt my shoulder and broke the adapter on a Tensei Orange 65X shaft I was testing for Counter-Balancing. I had a spare shaft from when I was testing out a tour-issue Epic Flash SZ Double Diamond a few years ago that was gathering dust. That shaft was the Aldila Tour Green ATX 65 S that came from Callaway Preowned. The shaft felt way more alive in my hands, which I had thought was the S flex being overpowered by myself, so I said screw it and bought a 65 X from Ebay for $60 and got it installed.

Changes (For Better or Worse)

The first thing I did was I reviewed the shaft playing lengths of professional players around my height and found they preferred driver lengths between 44.75" and 45.25". I know from experience that driver lengths were a bit too much off the rack these days, so I decided to go with a finished length of 45" to pull a Goldilocks and make the testing more straightforward. I picked up a subscription to review shafts at GolfShaftReviews to get a comparison of the bend profiles of the Tensei White, Tensei Orange, and Tour Green so I could see objectively what was different between them, or rather their "personalities". Finally I picked up some old literature from Hireko, Tom Wishon, and Dave Tutelman to review anything I might have missed on the assembly or testing side of shafts, and reviewed both of Ping's charts for height/wrist floor and their recommended lie angles (found here ) and their launch characteristic matchups (found here ). Then I went back over to GolfWRX to re-read on stuff from Howard Jones who is very well respected over there.
I decided I was going to keep the Rogue ST Max LS because 1. It's a neutral head that sits square and I like hitting the ball straight and 2. I already had spare adapters 3. The Rogue ST Max LS has a 9 degree head I could optimize for once I like the shaft.
When I was younger my dad had an Aldila NV Green in a Nike Ignite 410 9.5 driver and I did like hitting it but never really thought about it that much, and when I reviewed the bend profiles of Aldila's offerings, I narrowed down the shaft selection to the Tour Green, NV 2KXV Green, Rogue Silver 130 MSI, and the 2023 NV Green as having pretty much the exact same bend profiles of each other. Because of my prior swing speed of 110, I selected the X flex and am considering an alternative of TX if X ended up being too soft in the hands.

Assembly and Testing

Once I got the Tour Green 65X in I assembled it straight-in and trimmed to 45" assembled. I had always not really liked the idea of swingweights for drivers being "recommended" at D5, and I used a baseline rough calculation of 200g for total driver tip weight + ferrule + epoxy. My Rogue head with everything came out to 204g, so I swapped out the rear cartridge with a shoddy brass tip weight to cut out and get back to 200g and a assembled swingweight around D2/D3 and assembled total weight around 319g. A quick "heave" test in the hands felt incredibly different between this and the Tensei White, the White felt like a dead board and the Aldila felt more like a lively, but tempered whip.
I warmed up and hit the range and the driver felt like a monster, the shaft actually gave me a little bit of room at the handle to really lay it on at the ball, I found the lightened swingweight and length felt like total command and control, and the mishits didn't feel like mishits. Ball speed hung out around 170, topped at 179, but the only downside was probably a bit too much spin. I finished up my testing trying the D setting (In Callaway Adapters, D just moves the lie angle upright 2-3 degrees) because my irons would be classified as Ping Green dot spec, but went back to flat.
I've been pretty happy so far and will be doing the final testing of the shaft with a 9 degree head so it's nice and square but taking out just a smidge of backspin so I get a nice piercing boring flight, as opposed to a bit more zippy in the 10.5.

Final Thoughts

I think ultimately what is the takeaway here is that fitting is a step in the journey and not the ultimate stop of golf performance. I don't have the luxury of living close to fitters such as the Titleist Performance Institute, so really all I have is what I can find out from testing on-course or at the range and reviewing other testers online.
If I had to redo my driver fitting, here's what I would do:

1. Start with a Neutral head and avoid pre-optimization, and start with a shaft length of 45" (or do what I did and review professional players heights and their driver shaft lengths and get close to you)
2. Work with the fitter to determine a very close shaft fit based on: Weight, Flex, Bend Profile, Playing Length
3. Go with the "live view" ball flight vs just staring at the launch monitor data, especially if you're only hitting range balls.
4. Don't hit range balls and fit off them at all if you can because they're not likely not even remotely close to your gamer.
5. After getting close on the shaft, optimize with the driver head. If you want to draw it more, get a model that toes over easier. If you want to bring down launch and spin, get less loft, etc.
6. Don't let the fitter just randomly hand you heads/shaft combos.

6 is probably the most important. In my humble opinion and experience through all of this, If I had a neutral driver head from any big OEM that sat square, I would have had results incredibly similar keeping the testing parameters similar, which I think makes sense to start with a neutral head and then optimize it last "off-the rack" without having to make adapter adjustments like lofting-down and opening the face, etc.
I think if you're paying a lot of money for fitting service, you need to make your fitter work for you otherwise they can just wave their hands and go "oh well that's golf!" and shove you out the door and get the next person in.
At the end of the day if you don't like your clubs you can obviously replace them, but what about them sucks? There's a shaft and head combo for everyone these days and with a little bit of work you can get it working for you.
Tensei White Bend Profile
Aldila Tour Green Bend Profile
Aldila NV Bend Profiles
Aldila Rogue Silver Bend Profile

https://forums.golfwrx.com/topic/1927885-rory-mcilroys-new-custom-cameron-putter-2023-wgc-dell-technologies-match-play/

down in south carolina and a lot of the actual gems locally are the private courses - trying to find someone to reciprocate with without annoying the golfwrx folks.

It's January, which means all the manufacturers are starting to release new clubs and thoughts of upgrades for next season start entering my mind. If you're like me, you are thinking of the clubs you absolutely cannot hit during an actual round and are thinking about maximizing ability to play well given your limited skills. But, you're also well aware of the stigma about rocking things like a full set of hybrids, the anti-slice "Max" or "X" versions of drivers, etc.
I remember some clip from a couple seasons ago of a tour pro in a promo video receiving some friendly trash-talk for having a 4-hybrid and 3-hybrid in his bag and then hitting a gorgeous shot with one and clapping back with a comment about how there's no prize money for having a full set of blades if you can't hit the green.
I'm curious if any of y'all have seen any pros with club sets that are weird or are things that we wouldn't expect to see them with. Are there any pros rocking that full 3-iron through PW hybrid set? Any pros with a chipper in the bag? Who out there is happy to live with a 280 yard drive instead of 300+ and is living life in the fairway because they are using the full 460cc non-LST driver? Even the trend of some people using a 5-wood or 7-wood is an empowering thing for regular players to see.
Basically, what pros can I point to as an example when my friend gives me shit for refusing to carry any iron longer than a 6-iron and going for hybrids the rest of the way?
.
Edit: Adding some of the weird WITBs I've found.
Langer 2020 - Has hybrids and an iron set made up of like 3 different manufacturers, then 2 different wedges.

$400 PayPal
Purchased Black Friday 2021. Lamkin cross line 360 grips. KBS tour-V 90 shafts in black. Regular flex. Bent 1 degree strong. I took the white paint fill out of the “sub70 699 pro” on the club heads after seeing someone on golfwrx do it. Made them look sleeker. So clubs look murdered out in black other than the club number and grips.
https://imgur.com/a/LzmUjeL

Like the title says looking for a place to buy used left handed golf clubs. I’ve browsed golfwrx and 2nd swing golf. Any lefties out there that have a recommendation ?

Prices are OBO shipped east of the Mississippi - Only trades are for $-taper 110 regular shafts (or clubs with these shafts in them), HZRDUS Blue RDX 70g 6.0 shafts, Speeder 661 Evo VI Xstiff, or Titleist T100s heads. Will provide discount for bundles.
Can provide specific measurements if requested. Will be pulling ferrules on iron sets. Reddit chat has been having difficulties for me - I am also on Instagram as @ synapticgolf or Golfwrx as @ jrr811
Pics: https://imgur.com/a/3SGgoo6

Iron Sets:

Project X LZ 6.0 120g - 4-PW - No Grips - $old
Nippon Modus 3 125S Tour System - 4-PW - No Grips - $175
Nippon Super Peening Blue (125 S) - 5-GW - Standard Golf Pride CPX grips, like new - $225
Dynamic Gold AMT S300 Tour White - 5-PW - Midsize SuperStroke Traxion Brown wrap, plenty of life- $150

DriveFairways:

Fukijira Speeder 757 Masters - 3w Length - TM Tip - 32/100 - $180
Motore X F3 7S - 3w Length - TM Tip - $90
Motore F3 80 S-Flex - Driver Length - TM Tip - $60
Atmos Blue Tour Spec 6s - Driver Length - TM Tip - Ferrule missing - $90
Fujikura Pro 60 S Flex - Driver Length - No Adapter - $60
Kuro Kage 60 Flex-S - Driver Length - No Adapter - $60

Hello, has anyone ever used golfwrx to sell clubs? I've been debating using golfclassifieds but also don't want to deal with any issues that could arise. Golfwrx you have to be a member to sell which i think in turn would also apply to buyers as they most likely have a history on the forum.

For anyone wondering, the prices on some of these [WTS] posts for the limited run putters are pretty outlandish. Brand new these things are $650 + tax + shipping = $750.
On the classifieds forum for GolfWRX, here's a NP2+ selling used after 1 round for $700 OBO (Pretty good deal if you think they're worth that): https://forums.golfwrx.com/topic/1907373-price-drop-jet-set-np2/
This NP2+ sold on eBay brand new for $860: https://www.ebay.com/itm/125584526009
I watched a Monoblock 6.5 with no reserve that sold for retail at $686, however the seller lost money because of tax + shipping costs and eBay takes about a 10% seller fee!
They're appropriately priced from SC. Obviously it's up to you on your preference, but a standard OTR Newport 2 is exactly the same as the Jet Set Newport 2, but the Jet Set is black. The Plus models offer something new and interesting which makes these a little more enticing.

All prices shipped in US. Open to trades, but cash is king. Can provide feedback from eBay, Golfwrx, etc.
https://imgur.com/a/XyOOl85
Scotty Cameron Tei3 longneck - $SOLD - refinished by Jeremy Richards, includes original shaft, white betti grip, will reinstall before shipping. Does not include original HC but will ship with one.
Mizuno Staff Bag - good condition, some scuffs and could probably use a good leather cleaning, but overall. $SOLD
DG S300 5-PW - $SOLD - .355, includes good condition GP grips
DG TI X100 wedge shafts - $75 - includes grips and ferrules, came from a Lob and Sand wedge.
Nippon Super Peening Blue - 5-Gw - $250 - .355 Includes midsize GP CPX grips and bbfco ferrules. Very hard to find shafts.
Nippon Modus 125 Tour 3 4-PW - $200 - .355 Standard, no grips.