Does anybody here know if the Festool midi (newer version) and CT Cyclone connect together?
If so, is it effective for helping with drywall dust. I just got a planex and will be using it to remove the paint and drywall texture on my walls in my house. I’ve heard the planex creates a lot of dust and might be too much for the midi, I am curious if the cyclone can help with that?
Thanks!

This is everything I’ve ordered so far plus some other small things i didn’t feel like listing. But i like getting all the unique things that brands have. Does anyone know some unique tools festool sells that not many people have?
List:
Router OF 2200 2200 base accessories Ct 48 hepa non ac Ct 48 hepa with ac (yes two extractors) Domino 500 Sander RO 125 Rotex Sander Ets 125 with angle attachment Sander Ets ec 150 Sander Ets 400 Work center Cyclone separation Ts55 plus M137 accessory kit Ps 420 jigsaw with base accessories Limited Edition Imperial Installers Kit Limited Edition metric Installers Kit Drywall sander plus

Hey all,
I'm going to start my first drywall mudding / spachteln project, I'm starting with the smallest room in my apartment here in Germany. My goals are to achieve smooth walls with clean corners and for the surface to be ready to be painted.
Note: There are some differences between American and German standards, over here mud is called spachtel and the quality standards are called Q1-Q4. Where Q1 is equivalent to an American levels 1 & 2 (taped and mudded) and Q4 is level 5 finish (full surface coverage). The German norm for a surface that be directly painted is Q4.
I'm a bit unsure if I'm either overdoing it, under preparing or forgetting something and I'd appreciate any advice.
Here are some pics of the room: https://imgur.com/a/upiD4AV
The Room:

• Old building from 1890 that was previously renovated in 2010 to a reasonable standard, the walls were covered in woodchip wallpaper.
• The room is 14sqm with 3.10m ceilings, roughly 44sqm of wall to cover.
• There are three kinds of wall:
  • Old masonry supporting walls with a thick coat of either concrete or gypsum plaster, it's roughly flat but not remotely paintable
  • Old masonry supporting walls where the window is, it has an ok coat of gypsum plaster, it's rough but could be sanded & skimmed
  • Drywall with joints all mudded and sanded to a mediocre standard
• I removed the wallpaper, mostly went ok on the old walls but I damaged the drywall in some places
• The baseboards are still attached, I'm unsure if i need to remove them or not
• The ceiling mouldings are still attached, I intend to replace them in the future with something better

Gear: I already have the things marked with an astrix (*) and intend to buy everything else, let me know if i'm missing something.

• Bosch GAS 35 M AFC Industrial Vacuum Cleaner *
• Bosch GTR 55-225 Drywall Sander
• 10k lumen drywall lighting system *
• Roller for getting the mud on the wall *
• Mixing attachments *
• Drywall knife and bucket *
• 60cm toothed 4x6mm trowel for controlling the depth of thick coats
• 80cm butterfly for smoothing and pressing (Parfait Liss)
• Float sponge for finishing
• buckets for cleaning tools

Drywall mud/spachtel:

• Water based primer
• Pufamur fill & finish R50 Light - Gypsum based all rounder
• Alligator Allfatexx Spachtelvlies GV 40 - Fine glassfibre re-enforcement fabric, this removes the need for multiple coats and reduces sanding.

Prep:

• Cover floor, windows and fit dust sheet to door.
• Remove radiator and cleanup behind it
• Fill in small holes
• Remove any remaining acryl from around the door
• Remove the baseboards
• fill any larger holes / defects

Old Masonry wall process:

• Cleanup corners
• Sand with 120 grit
• Prime the surface
• 4mm coat with a 4x6mm toothed trowel
• Bed fibreglass re-enforcement fabric into the spachtel, smooth over
• When somewhat dried press the surface with the large butterfly trowel
• Once fully dried do a skim coat
• Sand with 150 grit to finish

Drywall process and process for wall with the windows

• Sand it with 120 grit to remove nicks and bumps from wallpaper removal
• Prime the surface
• Apply mud with a roller, smooth with the butterfly, should be 1mm thick skim coat.
• Pressed when somewhat dry with butterfly trowel
• Sand and prime again
• Second skim coat
• Press
• Sand with 150 grit

Questions:

1. For the masonry walls should I do a thick 3-4mm first coat with a filling spachtel first? Pufamur R40 renovation spachtel (not gypsum based)
2. Are the electrical covers still going to fit? Keeping in mind that previously there was woodchip wallpaper.
3. Should I remove the baseboards?
4. Should I remove the ceiling mouldings?
5. Before doing a full surface coat of the drywall, should I first skim the existing joints with an extra coat.

I've been following German youtubers and some American youtubers too, specifically this guys videos I found helpful:

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EwMy_vdKk7o
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSAuMKBiFDo&t=199s

​
Thanks in advance for any help! Here are the pics again: https://imgur.com/a/upiD4AV

Hello I am a true beginner looking for some advice on what tools to set up a nice capable woodworking shop. Just looking to get some input based on my planned projects and available space.

• Space - roughly size of 1 car garage. About 11x22
  
• Projects - mainly cabinets to start; then plan on branching out into furniture
  
• what I already have - Dust extractor and a track saw (yes Festool). I bought the dust extractor for drywall project so the track saw was a bit of an impulse buy. I have a few sanders and routers. And a Mitre Saw.
  
• what I think I need (haha, don’t we all tell ourselves these things)
  
  1. Table saw
  2. Planer
  3. Jointer (or is it Joiner? Is that one of the tells that you’re a noob if you don’t know if it’s joiner or jointer)

I’m leaning toward a sawstop. Just not sure which model. I’d like a benchtop planer and joiner for space. Considering the Dewalt 735 or the Oliver 12 1/2 inch planer. And considering the Wahuda 10 inch jointer.
Thanks in advance for your input.

Festool price changes effective January 4, 2023

On January 4th, 2023 Festool will be increasing prices on 1,319 tools + accessories. Of those, 47 I can't find a current price and 48 price is unchanged. That leaves a remaining 1,224 items which are increasing on average 6.6% in price. The minimum increase is 1% (Grinder, Edge Bander, Kapex), and maximum is 50% (15V 5.2Ah Battery).
I'm a regular customer (not a dealer), so data I could find is below. This is same type of increase as they did on 1/1/22. The price change affects all Authorized Festool Dealers in the US.
I've seen a few dealers saying they'll honor 2022 prices for all order placed until December 31, 2022 at midnight. That includes out of stock orders. So you'll pay 2022 pricing but get the item when it comes back in stock in 2023.
For a full list of all 1,319 items, prices, and changes go to this google sheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/14jun3x5SyoW1QS5Nt17CGgsAvYkVusxovtUn27Ki8Js/edit?usp=sharing
Note: This is what I could find. If you have corrections or other info, please share.

These are the largest $USD changes, anything increasing by more than $50

Festool SKU	Item Name	2023 Price	2022 Price	% Change	$ Change
491937	FS 2700 106" Guide Rail	$465	$355	31%	$110
491501	FS 3000 118" Guide Rail	$545	$435	25%	$110
575389	TS 75 EQ Plunge Cut Track Saw	$799	$699	14%	$100
576173	HKC 55 Cordless Bluetooth 5.2Ah Track Saw PLUS-FSK w/ Systainer3	$799	$699	14%	$100
575390	TS 75 EQ Plunge Cut Track Saw w/ 75" Guide Rail	$975	$859	14%	$116
576167	HKC 55 Cordless Track Saw PLUS w/ Systainer3	$679	$599	13%	$80
491622	32mm Hole Drilling 95" Guide Rail	$429	$379	13%	$50
576164	HKC 55 Cordless Track Saw BASIC	$449	$399	13%	$50
576378	ETSC 125 18V Brushless Hybrid Cordless 125mm (5") Sander Bluetooth 3.1Ah PLUS	$539	$479	13%	$60
576922	OF 1010 R Router w/ Systainer3	$559	$499	12%	$60
576778	QUADRIVE TPC 18/4 Cordless Hammer Drill 18V 4.0Ah Set w/ Systainer3	$615	$549	12%	$66
576718	TSC 55 K Cordless Track Saw 5.2Ah Kit with Kickback Stop	$779	$699	11%	$80
576991	T 18 Cordless Drill HighPower 4.0Ah SET Kit w/ Systainer3	$555	$499	11%	$56
576994	C 18 Cordless Drill Bluetooth HighPower 4.0Ah Kit w/ Systainer3	$555	$499	11%	$56
576717	TSC 55 K Cordless Track Saw with Kickback Stop, Tool Only	$549	$499	10%	$50
576239	Module Edge Router MFK 700 Set	$659	$599	10%	$60
577008	TSC 55 K Cordless Track Saw + 55-Inch Guide Rail 5.2Ah Kit with Kickback Stop	$879	$799	10%	$80
575716	ETSC 125 18V Brushless Hybrid Cordless 125mm (5") Sander Bluetooth 3.1Ah SET	$665	$605	10%	$60
576423	Domino Joiner DF 500 Q Set	$1,199	$1,099	9%	$100
575085	HK 55 Cross-Cutting Track Saw PLUS-FSK	$659	$605	9%	$54
576996	QUADRIVE TPC 18/4 Cordless Hammer Drill and TID 18 Cordless Impact Screwdriver Combo Kit w/ Systainer3	$649	$599	8%	$50
575994	Planex 2.0 Drywall Sander LHS 225 EQI-PLUS	$1,395	$1,295	8%	$100
576213	OF 1400 EQ Plunge Router w/ Systainer3	$699	$649	8%	$50
576419	Domino DF 500 Plus	$1,069	$1,019	5%	$50
571935	Planex Easy Drywall Sander	$839	$779	8%	$60
576428	Domino Joiner XL DF 700 EQ Plus	$1,549	$1,499	3%	$50
576431	Domino Joiner XL DF 700 EQ Set	$1,685	$1,599	5%	$86
576577	Conturo KA 65 Hand Held Edge Bander w/ Systainer3	$3,299	$3,185	4%	$114
576761	Remodeler's HEPA Dust Extractor CT 48 E AC AutoClean	$1,055	$999	6%	$56
576223	OF 2200 EB Plunge Router w/ Systainer3	$1,099	$1,029	7%	$70
577085	CT 48 HEPA Dust Extractor	$935	$879	6%	$56
203802	MW 1000 Mobile MFT Work Shop SET w/ Extension Table	$799	$749	7%	$50

Has anyone had any luck finding a hoover that works well with the makita drywall sander? I've tried the makita backpack sander, makita L class battery hoover (the small site hoover), and a Vacmaster hoover 30L with paper bags...
Nun of these worked to well, I had some dust extraction but it wasn't dustless like a festool, Dwalt or flex set up.
I'm pretty sure it's a design fault with the hole the dust gets sucked, but I've seen some people online saying they've used the makita battery hooveextractor on wheels (the £400 one) and they said it was dustless but can't imagine that being true if I'm honest as I've used 3 different hoovers with my makita now and had no luck with it, I know the vacmaster is 100% capable as I use it with a menza sander and its completely dustless (menzer are very good for the price btw)

Any idea of how to use the mirka gold sandpaper paper with Festool sander? I tried it with the protection pad and it doesn’t stick. I also suppose I could make holes to help with dust collection. I am sanding paint off of drywall.

Hi! I was wondering if Festool had a tool to remove paint from drywall. I am restoring a 1930’s house and the previous owners did a thick layer of skimcoat over the plaster walls. I am trying to scrape by hand the paint that wasn’t primed so it peels off (not very easily) and then I’ve used my ETS 150/5 to sand the drywall/skim coat off to reveal the plaster. The sander doesn’t take off the paint from the drywall very well. I have to remove the paint by hand with a hand scraper and then remove the drywall with the sander. I am using 60 grit of the granite paper from Festool and the CT 36 dust extractor with the planex function for the drywall. If you guys can recommend another tool or sander or scraper that may help me I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you!

The one I’m liking the most is the Festool Planex. The “anti-gravity” suction is a big plus, but do all vacuum sanders have this same feature? I also really like that it has the LEDs, just not sure it justifies the price. (I know festool is great, just not sure I need a festool lol)

Large Collection of Sportscards Baseball, Basketball Football. Mostly new panini, Select and Moasic lots. Of other stuff as well. 3000 or so cards, autos, patches. Rookies. Inserts etc. $225
Toolbox full of tools, sockets and wrenches mostly name brand 150+ pieces $75
Dewalt drywall screwdriver, Power Grindrr, 2 electrical hand sanders, 2 pneumatic Staple guns $130 for all Power tools

Hi, me and my girlfriend just bought a house together which we are renovating ourselves. If you look at picture #4 at the imgur link below you can see what it looked like before and the other pictures for what the glue looks like at the moment. The glue wont come off with our steamer, it worked well with my 125 mm orbit power sander but that will literally take me days to sand all of it down. I bought a 225 mm drywall sander which works worse than the 125 mm one, but if i go at it for days it will be gone.
Anyone have any good ideas? I have already thought of putting plaster boards all over the roof but that will decrease the heigth too much since its only 2,37 meters from the floor to the ceiling.
http://imgur.com/a/rIgYUSs

I have an existing room with very rough wood paneling everywhere. The thing is, it's actually nice cedar boards. So, instead of pulling it just to drywall, I'm thinking sand and paint. Can you suggest a random orbit sander that has a good dust collection setup? I'mm planning to hook up the shop vac to it.
EDIT: I'm probably not buying a festool and i haven't found anyone that rents them near me.

Hello,
I’m looking to buy my first Festool product. I’m currently remodeling my kitchen and would like to remove the knockdown textured walls and ceilings.
I currently own an extractor and was looking for opinions on a planex. Would this be able to remove texture “dustless”?
My other alternative is applying 2-3 coats of drywall mud and then sanding.

I have no personal experience with festool dust extraction. But I am the jack-of-all-trades maintainance man at a medical office/medical device production facility.
I was curious as to the real world viability of their extraction when coupled with their random orbit sanders for the purpose of drywall repair.
The owner where I work would like to go through a comprehensive refinish process to clean up the interior cosmetics of our fascilities and has given me a substantial budget to work from.
I was hoping to find out how effective this system may be, to allow the patching and sanding portion of drywall repair to be mitigated both in time and in cleanup. Much of these repairs will happen after hours in open office environments so the less cleanup needed the faster I can accomplish the needed work.
Thanks!

So, I’m looking for a small footprint Vac to do multiple duties. I know it’s not ideal, but I have to be practical. Doing diy work on the house, not a pro using it all day every day. Figure I can find something that will check the boxes I need well enough for hobby projects.
Priorities being:

• Works ok with my more stationary items like miter saw and table saw.
• Roll around with me if I’m sanding drywall or cleaning up around the shed. Portability is nice.
• Easy to store. Limited space available.
• Fairly quiet- no screamers. I don’t need a 59db Makita, but browsing the quiet dewalt, the Festool and Fein. Under 70db would be nice.
• Cost-effective. Between ~100-350 tops (means either a quieter less expensive vac plus dust collector or just the Fein or Festool sans collector)

Wildcards:

• Adjustable suction (may help in the noise department and sacrifice some suction power)
• An outlet for powering up and down the vac and tool with a single button. (I can make my own so not a deal breaker, have electronics background)
• Built-in dust collection? The dust stopper / vac combos I’ve seen are generally cumbersome, making them unrealistic for me. Also I’d like to avoid yet another DIY situation so I can focus on my real diy goals- using the vac to get stuff done. But they also seem very well regarded so I’m on the fence here as I’m unsure if it’s really necessary given the volume of work I’m doing.

Enter the Aleko / DP-506
So brings me to this unit I found in browsing around: the Aleko multi-stage vac. Almost zero ink spilled on it and the description is fairly ambiguous. Usually around $300 but on sale for ~100 right now on amazon. Looks to be an interesting design and has a lot of the features I discussed above.
https://www.dpairless.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/dp-506-vacuum-cleaner-circulatory-system.jpg
https://cdn3.volusion.com/zdsjj.aemfk/v/vspfiles/photos/DP-506-AP-2T.jpg
https://www.alekoproducts.com/4-Stage-Filtration-System-Wet-Dry-Vacuum-Cleaner-p/dp-506-ap.htm
More detailed data: https://www.dpairless.com/products/drywall-sandedp-506-vacuum-cleaner-38l.html
Could this be a happy medium solution of duststopper and vacuum combo? I’m not very familiar with shop vac design, so I need some help decoding what exactly the feature set is here with the Aleko and if it’s what I think it is.
Noise is less than 75db, probably acceptable if I dial down the motor a bit. Vacuum is greater than 18Kpa. Doesn’t list cfm.
Also any other solutions / other quiet vacs I’m neglecting that fit my needs?

Sanding is the least favorite part of projects for most woodworkers. It was definitely mine. I'm starting to hate it less and less though despite being no expert and you guys liked my thing on lumber yards so I figured I'd give this topic a go.
Here's the fundamental problem: people naturally want to work on things they're good at. It's fun and gratifying to pump out projects like what they've done and they can both admire their work and get better at something they feel good at. People as a rule don't generally focus on their weaknesses, things they feel bad at and get no joy out of things they struggle with. I'm here to help. Despite definitely being /BeginnerWoodWorking and not a professional finish carpenter or luthier or something I have tried very hard to learn about sanding in the past year. Here are some tips that I'll confine to reasonable DIY/homeownebeginner price ranges (so I'll leave out 1k+ drum sanders etc.):
T.L.D.R.: Trying to use shortcuts or ignore sanding are the cause of your pains, and there is no TLDR for all of this information.
What do people have right now
Most woodworkers have sheets of sandpaper, a cheap random orbital sander (I'll use ROS for short), and a few grits of hook and look paper for their random orbital sander. Some of you may also have a sanding block and maybe a cheap "finish sander" (one of the ones for edges and tight places). It's not your favorite thing so you'd rather spend money on fun parts of the hobby like saws and wood.
What problems do people have because of this limited set of tools and "get it over with" approach

• The vibration/jerkiness of cheap ROS can numb hands after 20-30 minutes of runtime
• Cheap ROS have little in the way of dust collection, often kicking up a lot of dust and leaving dust in the sandpaper creating bumps in the project and sandpaper
• Cheap ROS have no ability to keep you from having the edge of your paper slice into adjacent surfaces leaving cuts
• Jobs that take a LOT of sanding can take FOREVER (personal example, outdoor gate that hasn't been sealed or sanded in 20+ years...)
• There's a tendency to skip grits of sandpaper because of general hatred or lack of sandpaper stock
• It feels like a nightmare to sand weird shapes
• You dig into projects by tipping your ROS to sand out divets in projects, leaving bumpy surfaces
• You move around your ROS a bunch, usually because you're not seeing results
• It's really hard to NOT knock edges off of projects when you can't be sure you're sanding at a 90 degree angle
• Dust, dust everywhere
• Sanding can be an expensive subcategory

Okay so we have a problem set here that I think you'll see yourself in if you're reading this. Let's work to fix it
Vibration/jerkiness
As I've recently found out, not all ROS are made equally. It seems to me in the $30-$100 range ROS really focus primarily on getting the job done and they largely ignore vibration. You can check the product pages for tools in this category to see that they do not mention vibration (example. In the $200+ category you'll notice they mostly all talk about vibration. This festool as an example mentions "Balanced vibration stop (VS) design delivers better finish results, smooth operation and greater comfort.". Festool isn't alone in this, here's a Bosch example stating "COMFORT: The Bosch ROS65VC 6 Random Orbit Sander and Polisher features Bosch’s exclusive Vibration Control a suspension system to minimize vibration for superior handling and maximum comfort". You can find some cheaper models that do mention vibration, but it's the exception to the rule.
In my personal experience I find I can sand for at least 3x as long on more expensive sanders than I can with cheap ones. Sanding with cheaper sanders tends to feel like riding a bull in that it jerks all over and you expend a lot of effort trying to keep it flat AND there's a lot of vibration. With more expensive ones there's much less vibration and tendency for it to aggressively walk all over. There are exceptions to this rule, but they're mostly limited to dual-mode/Rotex sanders, a different beast you don't need to worry about yet.
Slicing into adjacent surfaces
Some sanders actually come with protectors that go on the sander and provide a hard stop on the edges of ROSs, example here. You can also tape the sides you don't want to mar with painters tape (remove when done), or if using something like a wood block with sandpaper attached you can set the paper back so it's not touching the adjacent surface.
Time suck of sanding REALLY uneven surfaces
If you're trying to sand long neglected outdoor wood with 120 grit you're going to have a bad time. There are several things to more appropriately help this.

• Use lower grit sandpaper, something in the 40-80 range. This will remove much more material quickly.
• Belt sanders - They're there to remove a LOT of material fast and have no random orbiting action. They're meant to follow up with something like a ROS and finer grits. here's an example.
• Use a better ROS. I find my Festool ROS with the same grit as my cheap $40 ROS works much faster.
• Here's where the "dual mode" ROSs shine, but they're $300+. Things like This Festool Rotex and this Bosch

Skipping grits
While there is no reason I see to go from 60-80-100-120-140-160-180-200-220, you should expect to use at least two grits. Generally grits 80 and under are to shape wood or remove a lot of wood, grits 100-180 are more for the purpose of getting surfaces even, and 200+ are for increasingly picky woodworkers who need extremely smooth surfaces. I personally use 80 for very uneven surfaces, 120 for every surface, and something like 180-220 for really making things feel very smooth.
The problems of only having a single sandpaper are a few. If you only have 80, you're going to have pretty rough surfaces. If you only have 180-220 it's going to cause other problems

• it'll take forever
• you'll have smooth surfaces around craters. Your surfaces will be so uneven that trying to essentially polish that won't get down to the low points.

Weird shapes
These aren't easy, so take a step back and grab a beer and do some thinking first. For this I really like smaller sanding blocks you can cut custom then attach sandpaper to with glue. You can use bits of dowels to sand coves. You can also use more malleable things like sheets of wool.
There are also some more advanced techniques like putting Bondo on moldings to take an exact shape, attach sandpaper to that once removed, and then you have a perfectly mirrored surface to use. The main takeaway though is to STOP, THINK, and then test on extra stock or an inconspicuous spot.
You dig into projects by tipping your ROS to sand out divets in projects, leaving bumpy surfaces
Don't do that if you're picky on getting smooth surfaces. It'll make it less apparent, but create an even bigger problem by making a little crater in your project. If you stain after that it'll sit in the crater and be miscolored. If you finish after that you'll end up with more in the crater.
The right solution is to drop a grit, get the surface even, then go through your grit progression.
You move around your ROS a bunch, usually because you're not seeing results
You shouldn't have to. It's usually a good sign your sandpaper needs to be changed to a fresh sheet. Grab a new sheet, run your hand on that new paper and also the current paper and you'll usually be able to tell if your current paper is worn out.
Keeping edges
It helps to have a reference edge. You can do something like clamp two boards slightly below the edge you want to keep and keep checking it to make sure it's parallel.
You can also buy things for this, tools with built in reference surfaces that are adjustable. Here's one example. You can also homebrew something like this.
It also helps to have a wide sanding block. I'm a fan of this sandpaper block made for drywallers because it's such a big surface it helps prevent the problem where you have a low spot here but a high spot over there.
Dust, dust everywhere
Keep it wrapped, by which I mean wear a dust mask. These vary greatly and a thin cheap paper thing is usually NOT enough. Try a better dust mask, they'll stop the dust boogers and protect your lungs.
Dust collection helps a lot. The little bag on the end of your sander may help but it's not actively sucking dust away, which is why something like a shop vac and hose are a big step up. You can get a shop vac and tie it to something like this which will make it a lot more livable.
All sanders are also not made equal. In my limited experience my Festool is the insane mode of dust collection, sucking 95% of it up as I sand. On the other end of the spectrum belt sanding with a harbor freight is going to kick up a tree worth. I'm not a Festool salesmen so ask around and check reviews, but do yourself a favor and buy something created with dust collection in mind.
You can also try hand tools which I'll mention below.
Sanding can be an expensive subcategory
You're right but it doesn't have to be. One of my favorite tools is actually a hand sander called a rasp. This takes off a lot of material (it has two sides one more agressive) and saws off larger particles than my ROS does. It fits in tight places too which is pretty huge. It will however not leave a 220 grit finish.
You can look for sales on sanders which occasionally happen on sites like this Festool one you shouldn't visit because I don't want competition, or on craigslist and the like. You can find multi packs of sandpaper that contain multiple grits rather than buying 6 packs or whatever too.
You should also check out cabinet scrapers. They're absolutely amazing for getting glue off of surfaces. They "cut" rather than skip along surfaces, and can leave a finish ready surface. The general idea is putting a small burr on a 90 degree angle of metal then dragging it across a surface. I highly recommend checking out youtube videos on it. They run about $20 for a set or $10 a piece.
I've been slowly going down this rabbit hole of a professional who made a course to sell to people, that then put it up on youtube. It's full of a ton of little tips and tricks I didn't know I needed. He used to work in the automotive industry which has some cool carryover to woodworking (the Bondo tip was from him).
Again I'm not professional carpenter so let me know in the comments if I'm wrong on something or you have other questions or suggestions. I think by focusing on sanding and spending a little more on sanding tools you'll really improve your woodworking and enjoyment of it.

I’m needing a new shopvac/extractor for on-site work (my shop is set up with a dust collection system) and, while I have my favourite that I’m leaning towards I thought I’d throw this out to you all and see if you have any input. Most of my tools that I use in a home have hookups for dust collection, so need a vacuum that can handle sawdust, MDF dust and occasionally drywall dust/concrete dust (from prepping concrete slabs for a glue down vinyl plank)
I had been using a cheap 12 gallon ShopVac with bags that I was hanging on to until died. It finally died so I’d like to upgrade to one I don’t have to constantly clean or lose suction on (hung on longer than I’d expected).
Of the Hepa capable/auto cleaning/tool controlled on/off vacuums I’m leaning to the Makita, reviews seems positive and the price point beats Festool. The dewalt is a yet cheaper option (as it comes with HEPA filters while for the Makita it’s second purchase) but I’d read the proprietary hose hook ups were a pain with all the adapters needed.
I don’t have a single brand loyalty (always shop around and research for new tools) so I’ve got a variety. I’m planning on getting a Planex for some upcoming lived-in-house renos to help with drywall dust.
I have considered getting another shopvac and setting it up with a dust deputy, but after purchasing all that I wouldn’t be too far off in cost to a better vacuum - without the extra bulk.
Thanks for any input!

Long story short... have a 4200sq ft house with popcorn in every single room. Did one room the "spray and scrape" way... total mess... total ridiculous amount of labor... total shit result.
Has anyone used a Festool or some other motorized large area drywall sander to remove popcorn? Ideally I'd love something I could strip it off with one pass, then sand smooth on another without having to skim coat anything. Am I pipe dreaming or is this possible?