Square short acrylic nails

A place for professional nail technicians!

2013.09.12 00:59 A place for professional nail technicians!

Welcome to nailtechs! This sub is for fellow nail techs to discuss advice, ask for constructive criticism and product discussion. For professional qualified nail technicians and students only.
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2023.06.08 19:29 ihearttheis Short story: woman physically fights man in small southern US town?

I feel like this is not an obscure title? I just have not been able to find it. I might have read this short story in high school or something.
I know it's set in the South in the US. I want to say it's between 1900 and World War II? There were a lot of descriptions to how rural/sleepy and kind of set back further in time this small town is?
There's a pharmacy, I want to say the woman either owns it or works there or lives above it? There's descriptions about whiskey in the childrens' tonic.
The main character is a woman. She's either a widow or divorcee. She is kind to children, but she's tough as nails.
I feel like the Crux of the story is that she's getting in a fist fight or a physical fight with some guy? And the whole town is watching? And the guy plays dirty. There's some sort of consequence to who wins the fight. I feel like the fight is at the pharmacy? I don't know if this makes sense or not. I'm sorry, that's all I can remember.
submitted by ihearttheis to whatsthatbook [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 19:28 i_devour_gluee probably autistic but not disabled/perfectly accommodated?

Short background story: I am close to starting an assessment for autism (and perhaps adhd) so lately I've been really thinking and researching about any autistic traits I display/displayed and I am having doubts that I can’t really tackle with my thérapies (because he doesn’t believe me and his view of autism is very outdated).
First doubt = I am in a period of my life (after a good few years of reaaaaally struggling) where I feel like I have everything under control so I don't really relate to the disability aspect (as in: my autistic traits are not causing me any difficulties). Here’s a list of ways I accommodate myself. Do they make me not autistic?
This leads me to two options:
1) Either I am not autistic (and fair enough but I have spent the last two years researching it and two years ago I was really struggling with socialising)
2) or I am indeed autistic but that my hyperactivity/curiosity/"intelligence" compensate for the difficulties.
For instance:
To conclude: I see the world as being a laboratory for my social experiments... And yeah at this point I don't even know if I should bother getting an assessment if the person is going to tell me I don't have clinally severe enough traits and that I am not autistic.
submitted by i_devour_gluee to AutismTranslated [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 19:27 omw2fyb3000 which episode did enya show her nails? the short ones?

submitted by omw2fyb3000 to emergencyintercom [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 19:04 TheItalianMi1f Donthis

Donthis submitted by TheItalianMi1f to sennyk4 [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 18:47 Asleep_Onion Garmin knocked the ball out of the park w/ Epix Pro 51mm

I've had a Fenix 7X Sapphire since launch day last year, and have absolutely loved it the whole time. It's a fantastic watch, and the battery life is ludicrous. I always felt a little bit of FOMO for that beautiful amoled screen, but the limitation to 47mm case size and 6 days of always-on display just didn't cut it for me.
Enter the Epix Pro 51mm. As soon as this came out, I knew I had to give it a try. Maybe not as a complete replacement for my Fenix 7XSS, but perhaps as a new daily-wear watch for everyday life and single-day activity recording.
I'm blown away by how good this watch is. First of all, it's already running firmware 13.22, so it's had 18 months of solid R&D into it, you won't be buying a watch with barebones firmware full of bugs. This firmware is solid.
So I thought I'd put together a list of pros and cons to share of the Epix 2 Pro 51mm versus the Fenix 7X Sapphire Solar, along with some of my thoughts.
Pros:
  1. The flashlight is WAY brighter than the 7X non-Pro. It's at least 2x as bright. Turning them both up to full brightness and pointing them at the wall, the 7X flashlight pales in comparison, it's not even close. The new Fenix 7 Pro models do also have this brighter flashlight upgrade.
  2. The maps are GORGEOUS! With so much more detail, beautiful gradients and very clear contents. The weather overlays are nothing short of a game changer, and they look absolutely spectacular on the Epix screen. While this feature is also coming to Fenix, I can't imagine it will look good on a 64-color screen, and most likely I won't even try to use these overlays on my Fenix because it will just muck up the map and make the whole thing hard to read.
  3. The "dim" mode when the watch screen goes into standby in AOD mode while you're not looking at it, is still quite bright and much easier to read than a Fenix indoors.
  4. Garmin finally perfected "gesture" sensing. I never used gesture backlighting on my Fenix because it always did a terrible job of sensing when I was actually looking at my watch and when I wasn't, but they nailed it with Epix.
  5. I never really disliked the buttons on the Fenix 7X, but they've done something on the new Pro models to make them feel MUCH better. I'm not sure what they changed, but the buttons feel a lot more "crisp", if that makes any sense. The 7X buttons always felt a bit sloppy to me, although it never bothered me personally. The Epix Pro buttons are a lot more satisfying to press.
  6. I'm surprised by how readable it is under direct sunlight. This was my biggest worry with an Amoled screen, but they've made the screen capable of going so ridiculously bright that it can easily overcome direct sunlight. I think Fenix might (barely) have it beat, but honestly it's very close to being as good as Fenix outdoors.
  7. "Red Shift" mode eliminates most concerns about the bright amoled screen wrecking your night vision. It's very easy on the eyes, and great for checking the time in the middle of the night. You can have it automatically enter Red Shift mode during your sleep window, which is a nice feature.
  8. Epix Pro 51mm Sapphire looks and feels exactly the same as Fenix 7X Sapphire. I mean, apart from the screen itself, they are basically identical. I got both watches in Sapphire, with the same gray color, and even the same nylon straps, and they look and feel identical. This is a good thing for me, because it means that whenever I switch watches there won't be any noticeable change, nothing that feels odd or different, nothing I need to get used to.
Cons:
  1. I don't like that the screen turns completely off when you're not wearing it. There doesn't seem to be any way to change that. It turns completely off, black, when you take the watch off. The reason that this sucks for me is I like to hang my watch on a hook in the shower, and be able to see the time and notifications while it's hanging there, but this isn't really possible with the Epix. I don't really cycle, but many cyclists who mount the watch on their handlebars complain about the same thing. On the plus side, I can tap the screen and it'll turn on, so it still sort of works for my shower scenario, but the Fenix wins here with its screen that is always fully on whether you're wearing it or not.
  2. Garmin doesn't fully take advantage of the higher screen resolution as much as they could. For example, its capacity to show data on activity datascreens is basically the same as the Fenix; even though they could definitely cram more data or detail into the screen by using smaller fonts, etc., they just don't. That's probably fine for people with bad eyesight who need larger data, but my eyesight is great and I would love having more detail and data on my datascreens even if it meant everything had to shrink. It would be nice if Garmin gave us the ability to choose whether we want to shrink everything and cram more detail onto the screen or not, but for now we're basically only stuck with one display style.
  3. The obvious elephant in the room is battery life. It's got very good battery life for an amoled screen, but obviously it comes nowhere near Fenix 7X. That being said, it's got excellent battery life for what it is. I charged it 24 hours ago, and have been spending quite a bit of time screwing around with the watch setting it up the way I want it, and 24 hours later it still has 94%, which is pretty darn good. But the Fenix would probably still have 98% under the same circumstances.
  4. "Red Shift" mode, for some reason, doesn't work in activities. It works everywhere else, but as soon as you start an activity it turns off red shift mode, and I don't know why. It even stays off after you leave the activity, until you turn it back on again. I assume this is something Garmin will address in the future, but for now it's a limitation that might be important to know about.
  5. Weather overlays on the map are, oddly, only available in the Weather widget. They're not available on maps within an activity yet. I suspect this will be added soon though, as I'm certainly not the first person to point it out or complain about that limitation.
  6. It still only has 32GB of storage. WTF, Garmin? It's 2023, and we've still got the same storage limit as Fenix 6 did in 2019. With modern data storage density technology, they should be able to easily cram 64GB or 128GB into these watches, so I don't understand why we still don't get enough storage space to store worldwide topoactive maps.
Summary:
As I expected, it's not going to be able to fully 100% replace my 7X, for my own use case. However, it will definitely take over as my daily-wear watch, and my typical daily activities like running or dayhikes. The Fenix will continue to be my go-to watch for longer activities like backpacking and overlanding, but it will most likely live in the sock drawer when I'm not using it for that.
If I didn't already have the Fenix 7XSS, I might have strongly considered only owning the Epix Pro 51mm, and making it work for everything by just bringing a charging cable and power source with me on longer adventures. It does 95% of what the Fenix can do, and if you bring a charger and battery pack with you then it can do 105% of what a Fenix can do. But sometimes I just don't want to have to recharge, and so the Fenix will continue to be a part of my kit for that reason (and that reason, only).
TLDR;
If you're considering picking up a 51mm Epix Pro, do it! You definitely won't be disappointed. This is, in my opinion, the best outdoor watch anyone has ever made.

And a side note about using multiple Garmin watches at once:
This is a new concept to me, I've been using Garmin watches for about 5 years now, but I've only ever used one at a time. Whenever I got a new watch, it always immediately replaced whatever watch I had before it. So I thought I'd write a little bit about this for anyone else who might be curious how this works.
I don't think it was always this way, but as of now Garmin makes this process really seamless and easy. "Physio TrueUp" is no longer even a thing that you have to turn off or on or configure in any way, it's just always on, and there aren't even any settings for it anymore. It just works, always, by default.
When you add a second device, it asks you if you want to make it your primary device or not. In my case, I did make my new Epix Pro the primary device. What this does, is it tells Garmin to always use the data from that device whenever there is a conflict with data from another device, such as steps or HR that were recorded at the same time. But any time you're only wearing one device, regardless of which device it is, it'll use the data from whichever device you are wearing. It's quite seamless and very well done.
The Connect mobile app even communicates with both devices at the same time. Whenever a notification comes in, it pops up on both watches at the same time, and when I clear the notification from one watch it clears it on the other one at the same time. The whole experience is very well done, Garmin clearly put a lot of thought into making their ecosystem work well for people who own multiple Garmin watches.
I have heard that some things won't sync completely between devices, such as I think body battery and maybe some of the training readiness metrics. I haven't really played around with it enough yet to know for sure what the limitations are, but on the surface so far everything that's important to me seems to be pretty well synced up between the two devices.
And with that... hopefully this info helped someone! Feel free to post any questions and I'll try to answer them as best as I can. Cheers!
submitted by Asleep_Onion to GarminWatches [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 18:42 kmkarabela Long square gel x nails

Long square gel x nails submitted by kmkarabela to Nails [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 18:39 peeping_johny Setup advice for standing electric desk

Setup advice for standing electric desk
Hi folks, I'm updating my homeoffice desk to an electric one. I've already ordered the electric frame, and I need help with selecting the countertop and figuring out how to put it all together, similar to the image I've attached for inspiration.
COUNTERTOP I'm interested in a countertop with dimensions of 65-80cm depth, 170-18*cm width, a medium budget (not the cheapest option but not something too extravagant either, as I might replace it in the future up to 200cm), and a reasonable thickness that won't break under the weight of a monitor arm, for example. I found the following options (prices in parentheses refer to my currency):
  1. Desk top, oak/laminate, 186 x 63.5 x 3.8 cm (Ikea, 299,-)(Particleboard, laminate, Plastic edge, chlorine-free paper)
  2. Table top, 180 x 80 x 2.5 cm, walnut (local SME, 547.35)(Made of laminated chipboard)
  3. Solid Steamed Beech, 180 x 65 x 4.0 cm, Class AB (local SME, 620,-)(Beech solid AB)
  4. Desk top, oak/veneer, 186 x 63.5 x 3.8 cm (Ikea, 799,-)(Top/Edge: Thick oak veneer, Acrylic oil Left side: Laminate Wear layer: Particleboard)
I've done some reading about different types of wood, but without personal experience, it's hard for me to determine what would be a good or good enough choice. I don't have any specific preferences regarding the material.
What matters to me is that it can withstand the weight of my equipment (similar to the image) or the occasional fist pounding (when code doesn't work or in a game), doesn't scratch easily, doesn't require a lot of maintenance (i.e., oiling, varnishing, sanding), just a wipe to remove dust or spills. Occasionally, I like to put my legs on the desk and recline in my chair.
Visually, I'm most drawn to the walnut option (second one), especially since it's the only one with 80cm depth, which is another advantage for me. I called to inquire about its weight, and it's 24kg, so the density seems not that bad. However, I'm not sure if a thickness of 2.5cm will be sufficient. It's the thinnest option among these. The others have a nice thickness, but they are shallower, with the two options from IKEA slightly exceeding 65cm.
SETUP The second aspect is the arrangement of equipment, the desk frame, and weight distribution.
  1. Electronic equipment: I always have a 19" laptop on a stand and two 27" monitors on a dual monitor arm (one of them is occasionally rotated vertically). I also place a 17" laptop in front of or next to the monitors. It would be good to have space for a keyboard/notebook in front of the laptop and monitors (which is currently a tight fit with my current desk's 65cm depth).
  2. Furniture: I'm considering having one or two cabinets with drawers under the desk, similar to the image. The arrangement of the legs of the desk frame depends on the placement of the dressers and vice versa. My priority is to have stable desk legs rather than having cabinets. I might end up getting two dressers, or I might not want to buy any. Alternatively, I could buy one dresser and fit all my stuff in it (examples in the variants mentioned, not binding to any).
  3. Additional elements: I'd like to have a shelf under the desk to store controllers or small items like a phone on charge, headphones, glasses. At the back of the desk, I plan to have cable management, possibly with LED strips along the side.
  4. Weight distribution: I'm wondering how to distribute the weight of the desktop and equipment on the desk frame. The simplest approach would be to center the desk frame on the desktop, leaving an equal amount of desk on each side. But would it make more sense to shift the desktop forward relative to the frame? (similar to a crane, with a longer, lighter front (i.e., me, keyboard, mouse, etc.) and a shorter, heavier back (monitors, laptop)) However, I'm not well-versed in physics to calculate how much padding to provide. Should it be 10cm, 15cm? Maybe doesn't matter?
https://preview.redd.it/4719enlrnt4b1.png?width=1802&format=png&auto=webp&s=514342e1dfda1022138b9ecd7e11a9f8a5fc7443
Bonus question: I'm not particularly handy with tools. What would be the best way to join all these elements together so that I can easily disassemble/reassemble them (e.g., for moving or rearranging)? I suspect nails are not the answer, and screwing directly into the wood may not be ideal either, as it might weaken it.
submitted by peeping_johny to WFH [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 18:39 peeping_johny Setup advice for standing electric desk

Hi folks, I'm updating my homeoffice desk to an electric one. I've already ordered the electric frame, and I need help with selecting the countertop and figuring out how to put it all together, similar to the image I've attached for inspiration.
COUNTERTOP I'm interested in a countertop with dimensions of 65-80cm depth, 170-18*cm width, a medium budget (not the cheapest option but not something too extravagant either, as I might replace it in the future up to 200cm), and a reasonable thickness that won't break under the weight of a monitor arm, for example. I found the following options (prices in parentheses refer to my currency):
  1. Desk top, oak/laminate, 186 x 63.5 x 3.8 cm (Ikea, 299,-)(Particleboard, laminate, Plastic edge, chlorine-free paper)
  2. Table top, 180 x 80 x 2.5 cm, walnut (local SME, 547.35)(Made of laminated chipboard)
  3. Solid Steamed Beech, 180 x 65 x 4.0 cm, Class AB (local SME, 620,-)(Beech solid AB)
  4. Desk top, oak/veneer, 186 x 63.5 x 3.8 cm (Ikea, 799,-)(Top/Edge: Thick oak veneer, Acrylic oil Left side: Laminate Wear layer: Particleboard)
I've done some reading about different types of wood, but without personal experience, it's hard for me to determine what would be a good or good enough choice. I don't have any specific preferences regarding the material.
What matters to me is that it can withstand the weight of my equipment (similar to the image) or the occasional fist pounding (when code doesn't work or in a game), doesn't scratch easily, doesn't require a lot of maintenance (i.e., oiling, varnishing, sanding), just a wipe to remove dust or spills. Occasionally, I like to put my legs on the desk and recline in my chair.
Visually, I'm most drawn to the walnut option (second one), especially since it's the only one with 80cm depth, which is another advantage for me. I called to inquire about its weight, and it's 24kg, so the density seems not that bad. However, I'm not sure if a thickness of 2.5cm will be sufficient. It's the thinnest option among these. The others have a nice thickness, but they are shallower, with the two options from IKEA slightly exceeding 65cm.
SETUP The second aspect is the arrangement of equipment, the desk frame, and weight distribution.
  1. Electronic equipment: I always have a 19" laptop on a stand and two 27" monitors on a dual monitor arm (one of them is occasionally rotated vertically). I also place a 17" laptop in front of or next to the monitors. It would be good to have space for a keyboard/notebook in front of the laptop and monitors (which is currently a tight fit with my current desk's 65cm depth).
  2. Furniture: I'm considering having one or two cabinets with drawers under the desk, similar to the image. The arrangement of the legs of the desk frame depends on the placement of the dressers and vice versa. My priority is to have stable desk legs rather than having cabinets. I might end up getting two dressers, or I might not want to buy any. Alternatively, I could buy one dresser and fit all my stuff in it (examples in the variants mentioned, not binding to any).
  3. Additional elements: I'd like to have a shelf under the desk to store controllers or small items like a phone on charge, headphones, glasses. At the back of the desk, I plan to have cable management, possibly with LED strips along the side.
  4. Weight distribution: I'm wondering how to distribute the weight of the desktop and equipment on the desk frame. The simplest approach would be to center the desk frame on the desktop, leaving an equal amount of desk on each side. But would it make more sense to shift the desktop forward relative to the frame? (similar to a crane, with a longer, lighter front (i.e., me, keyboard, mouse, etc.) and a shorter, heavier back (monitors, laptop)) However, I'm not well-versed in physics to calculate how much padding to provide. Should it be 10cm, 15cm? Maybe doesn't matter?
https://preview.redd.it/woh6glvqnt4b1.png?width=1802&format=png&auto=webp&s=51ac4aa5fa903bfd1c842aed3af94eb099734182
Bonus question: I'm not particularly handy with tools. What would be the best way to join all these elements together so that I can easily disassemble/reassemble them (e.g., for moving or rearranging)? I suspect nails are not the answer, and screwing directly into the wood may not be ideal either, as it might weaken it.
submitted by peeping_johny to StandingDesks [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 18:39 peeping_johny Setup advice for standing electric desk

Hi folks, I'm updating my homeoffice desk to an electric one. I've already ordered the electric frame, and I need help with selecting the countertop and figuring out how to put it all together, similar to the image I've attached for inspiration.
COUNTERTOP I'm interested in a countertop with dimensions of 65-80cm depth, 170-18*cm width, a medium budget (not the cheapest option but not something too extravagant either, as I might replace it in the future up to 200cm), and a reasonable thickness that won't break under the weight of a monitor arm, for example. I found the following options (prices in parentheses refer to my currency):
  1. Desk top, oak/laminate, 186 x 63.5 x 3.8 cm (Ikea, 299,-)(Particleboard, laminate, Plastic edge, chlorine-free paper)
  2. Table top, 180 x 80 x 2.5 cm, walnut (local SME, 547.35)(Made of laminated chipboard)
  3. Solid Steamed Beech, 180 x 65 x 4.0 cm, Class AB (local SME, 620,-)(Beech solid AB)
  4. Desk top, oak/veneer, 186 x 63.5 x 3.8 cm (Ikea, 799,-)(Top/Edge: Thick oak veneer, Acrylic oil Left side: Laminate Wear layer: Particleboard)
I've done some reading about different types of wood, but without personal experience, it's hard for me to determine what would be a good or good enough choice. I don't have any specific preferences regarding the material.
What matters to me is that it can withstand the weight of my equipment (similar to the image) or the occasional fist pounding (when code doesn't work or in a game), doesn't scratch easily, doesn't require a lot of maintenance (i.e., oiling, varnishing, sanding), just a wipe to remove dust or spills. Occasionally, I like to put my legs on the desk and recline in my chair.
Visually, I'm most drawn to the walnut option (second one), especially since it's the only one with 80cm depth, which is another advantage for me. I called to inquire about its weight, and it's 24kg, so the density seems not that bad. However, I'm not sure if a thickness of 2.5cm will be sufficient. It's the thinnest option among these. The others have a nice thickness, but they are shallower, with the two options from IKEA slightly exceeding 65cm.
SETUP The second aspect is the arrangement of equipment, the desk frame, and weight distribution.
  1. Electronic equipment: I always have a 19" laptop on a stand and two 27" monitors on a dual monitor arm (one of them is occasionally rotated vertically). I also place a 17" laptop in front of or next to the monitors. It would be good to have space for a keyboard/notebook in front of the laptop and monitors (which is currently a tight fit with my current desk's 65cm depth).
  2. Furniture: I'm considering having one or two cabinets with drawers under the desk, similar to the image. The arrangement of the legs of the desk frame depends on the placement of the dressers and vice versa. My priority is to have stable desk legs rather than having cabinets. I might end up getting two dressers, or I might not want to buy any. Alternatively, I could buy one dresser and fit all my stuff in it (examples in the variants mentioned, not binding to any).
  3. Additional elements: I'd like to have a shelf under the desk to store controllers or small items like a phone on charge, headphones, glasses. At the back of the desk, I plan to have cable management, possibly with LED strips along the side.
  4. Weight distribution: I'm wondering how to distribute the weight of the desktop and equipment on the desk frame. The simplest approach would be to center the desk frame on the desktop, leaving an equal amount of desk on each side. But would it make more sense to shift the desktop forward relative to the frame? (similar to a crane, with a longer, lighter front (i.e., me, keyboard, mouse, etc.) and a shorter, heavier back (monitors, laptop)) However, I'm not well-versed in physics to calculate how much padding to provide. Should it be 10cm, 15cm? Maybe doesn't matter?
https://preview.redd.it/hlgzli7qnt4b1.png?width=1802&format=png&auto=webp&s=dac48e4c0e37b9e550182f505b25056803851ceb
Bonus question: I'm not particularly handy with tools. What would be the best way to join all these elements together so that I can easily disassemble/reassemble them (e.g., for moving or rearranging)? I suspect nails are not the answer, and screwing directly into the wood may not be ideal either, as it might weaken it.
submitted by peeping_johny to StandingDesk [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 18:39 peeping_johny Setup advice for standing electric desk

Setup advice for standing electric desk
Hi folks, I'm updating my homeoffice desk to an electric one. I've already ordered the electric frame, and I need help with selecting the countertop and figuring out how to put it all together, similar to the image I've attached for inspiration.
COUNTERTOP I'm interested in a countertop with dimensions of 65-80cm depth, 170-18*cm width, a medium budget (not the cheapest option but not something too extravagant either, as I might replace it in the future up to 200cm), and a reasonable thickness that won't break under the weight of a monitor arm, for example. I found the following options (prices in parentheses refer to my currency):
  1. Desk top, oak/laminate, 186 x 63.5 x 3.8 cm (Ikea, 299,-)(Particleboard, laminate, Plastic edge, chlorine-free paper)
  2. Table top, 180 x 80 x 2.5 cm, walnut (local SME, 547.35)(Made of laminated chipboard)
  3. Solid Steamed Beech, 180 x 65 x 4.0 cm, Class AB (local SME, 620,-)(Beech solid AB)
  4. Desk top, oak/veneer, 186 x 63.5 x 3.8 cm (Ikea, 799,-)(Top/Edge: Thick oak veneer, Acrylic oil Left side: Laminate Wear layer: Particleboard)
I've done some reading about different types of wood, but without personal experience, it's hard for me to determine what would be a good or good enough choice. I don't have any specific preferences regarding the material.
What matters to me is that it can withstand the weight of my equipment (similar to the image) or the occasional fist pounding (when code doesn't work or in a game), doesn't scratch easily, doesn't require a lot of maintenance (i.e., oiling, varnishing, sanding), just a wipe to remove dust or spills. Occasionally, I like to put my legs on the desk and recline in my chair.
Visually, I'm most drawn to the walnut option (second one), especially since it's the only one with 80cm depth, which is another advantage for me. I called to inquire about its weight, and it's 24kg, so the density seems not that bad. However, I'm not sure if a thickness of 2.5cm will be sufficient. It's the thinnest option among these. The others have a nice thickness, but they are shallower, with the two options from IKEA slightly exceeding 65cm.
SETUP The second aspect is the arrangement of equipment, the desk frame, and weight distribution.
  1. Electronic equipment: I always have a 19" laptop on a stand and two 27" monitors on a dual monitor arm (one of them is occasionally rotated vertically). I also place a 17" laptop in front of or next to the monitors. It would be good to have space for a keyboard/notebook in front of the laptop and monitors (which is currently a tight fit with my current desk's 65cm depth).
  2. Furniture: I'm considering having one or two cabinets with drawers under the desk, similar to the image. The arrangement of the legs of the desk frame depends on the placement of the dressers and vice versa. My priority is to have stable desk legs rather than having cabinets. I might end up getting two dressers, or I might not want to buy any. Alternatively, I could buy one dresser and fit all my stuff in it (examples in the variants mentioned, not binding to any).
  3. Additional elements: I'd like to have a shelf under the desk to store controllers or small items like a phone on charge, headphones, glasses. At the back of the desk, I plan to have cable management, possibly with LED strips along the side.
  4. Weight distribution: I'm wondering how to distribute the weight of the desktop and equipment on the desk frame. The simplest approach would be to center the desk frame on the desktop, leaving an equal amount of desk on each side. But would it make more sense to shift the desktop forward relative to the frame? (similar to a crane, with a longer, lighter front (i.e., me, keyboard, mouse, etc.) and a shorter, heavier back (monitors, laptop)) However, I'm not well-versed in physics to calculate how much padding to provide. Should it be 10cm, 15cm? Maybe doesn't matter?
https://preview.redd.it/c5t58hjpnt4b1.png?width=1802&format=png&auto=webp&s=3086d17ad4e0b35a5e9111649cd983e46d66b110
Bonus question: I'm not particularly handy with tools. What would be the best way to join all these elements together so that I can easily disassemble/reassemble them (e.g., for moving or rearranging)? I suspect nails are not the answer, and screwing directly into the wood may not be ideal either, as it might weaken it.
submitted by peeping_johny to setups [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 18:38 peeping_johny Setup advice for standing electric desk

Setup advice for standing electric desk
Hi folks, I'm updating my homeoffice desk to an electric one. I've already ordered the electric frame, and I need help with selecting the countertop and figuring out how to put it all together, similar to the image I've attached for inspiration.
COUNTERTOP I'm interested in a countertop with dimensions of 65-80cm depth, 170-18*cm width, a medium budget (not the cheapest option but not something too extravagant either, as I might replace it in the future up to 200cm), and a reasonable thickness that won't break under the weight of a monitor arm, for example. I found the following options (prices in parentheses refer to my currency):
  1. Desk top, oak/laminate, 186 x 63.5 x 3.8 cm (Ikea, 299,-)(Particleboard, laminate, Plastic edge, chlorine-free paper)
  2. Table top, 180 x 80 x 2.5 cm, walnut (local SME, 547.35)(Made of laminated chipboard)
  3. Solid Steamed Beech, 180 x 65 x 4.0 cm, Class AB (local SME, 620,-)(Beech solid AB)
  4. Desk top, oak/veneer, 186 x 63.5 x 3.8 cm (Ikea, 799,-)(Top/Edge: Thick oak veneer, Acrylic oil Left side: Laminate Wear layer: Particleboard)
I've done some reading about different types of wood, but without personal experience, it's hard for me to determine what would be a good or good enough choice. I don't have any specific preferences regarding the material.
What matters to me is that it can withstand the weight of my equipment (similar to the image) or the occasional fist pounding (when code doesn't work or in a game), doesn't scratch easily, doesn't require a lot of maintenance (i.e., oiling, varnishing, sanding), just a wipe to remove dust or spills. Occasionally, I like to put my legs on the desk and recline in my chair.
Visually, I'm most drawn to the walnut option (second one), especially since it's the only one with 80cm depth, which is another advantage for me. I called to inquire about its weight, and it's 24kg, so the density seems not that bad. However, I'm not sure if a thickness of 2.5cm will be sufficient. It's the thinnest option among these. The others have a nice thickness, but they are shallower, with the two options from IKEA slightly exceeding 65cm.
SETUP The second aspect is the arrangement of equipment, the desk frame, and weight distribution.
  1. Electronic equipment: I always have a 19" laptop on a stand and two 27" monitors on a dual monitor arm (one of them is occasionally rotated vertically). I also place a 17" laptop in front of or next to the monitors. It would be good to have space for a keyboard/notebook in front of the laptop and monitors (which is currently a tight fit with my current desk's 65cm depth).
  2. Furniture: I'm considering having one or two cabinets with drawers under the desk, similar to the image. The arrangement of the legs of the desk frame depends on the placement of the dressers and vice versa. My priority is to have stable desk legs rather than having cabinets. I might end up getting two dressers, or I might not want to buy any. Alternatively, I could buy one dresser and fit all my stuff in it (examples in the variants mentioned, not binding to any).
  3. Additional elements: I'd like to have a shelf under the desk to store controllers or small items like a phone on charge, headphones, glasses. At the back of the desk, I plan to have cable management, possibly with LED strips along the side.
  4. Weight distribution: I'm wondering how to distribute the weight of the desktop and equipment on the desk frame. The simplest approach would be to center the desk frame on the desktop, leaving an equal amount of desk on each side. But would it make more sense to shift the desktop forward relative to the frame? (similar to a crane, with a longer, lighter front (i.e., me, keyboard, mouse, etc.) and a shorter, heavier back (monitors, laptop)) However, I'm not well-versed in physics to calculate how much padding to provide. Should it be 10cm, 15cm? Maybe doesn't matter?
https://preview.redd.it/z6b4uykont4b1.png?width=1802&format=png&auto=webp&s=a8ff53fcf756d769bbc4c687fab63494d43adb02
Bonus question: I'm not particularly handy with tools. What would be the best way to join all these elements together so that I can easily disassemble/reassemble them (e.g., for moving or rearranging)? I suspect nails are not the answer, and screwing directly into the wood may not be ideal either, as it might weaken it.
submitted by peeping_johny to desksetup [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 18:38 peeping_johny Setup advice for standing electric desk

Setup advice for standing electric desk
Hi folks, I'm updating my homeoffice desk to an electric one. I've already ordered the electric frame, and I need help with selecting the countertop and figuring out how to put it all together, similar to the image I've attached for inspiration.
COUNTERTOP I'm interested in a countertop with dimensions of 65-80cm depth, 170-18*cm width, a medium budget (not the cheapest option but not something too extravagant either, as I might replace it in the future up to 200cm), and a reasonable thickness that won't break under the weight of a monitor arm, for example. I found the following options (prices in parentheses refer to my currency):
  1. Desk top, oak/laminate, 186 x 63.5 x 3.8 cm (Ikea, 299,-)(Particleboard, laminate, Plastic edge, chlorine-free paper)
  2. Table top, 180 x 80 x 2.5 cm, walnut (local SME, 547.35)(Made of laminated chipboard)
  3. Solid Steamed Beech, 180 x 65 x 4.0 cm, Class AB (local SME, 620,-)(Beech solid AB)
  4. Desk top, oak/veneer, 186 x 63.5 x 3.8 cm (Ikea, 799,-)(Top/Edge: Thick oak veneer, Acrylic oil Left side: Laminate Wear layer: Particleboard)
I've done some reading about different types of wood, but without personal experience, it's hard for me to determine what would be a good or good enough choice. I don't have any specific preferences regarding the material.
What matters to me is that it can withstand the weight of my equipment (similar to the image) or the occasional fist pounding (when code doesn't work or in a game), doesn't scratch easily, doesn't require a lot of maintenance (i.e., oiling, varnishing, sanding), just a wipe to remove dust or spills. Occasionally, I like to put my legs on the desk and recline in my chair.
Visually, I'm most drawn to the walnut option (second one), especially since it's the only one with 80cm depth, which is another advantage for me. I called to inquire about its weight, and it's 24kg, so the density seems not that bad. However, I'm not sure if a thickness of 2.5cm will be sufficient. It's the thinnest option among these. The others have a nice thickness, but they are shallower, with the two options from IKEA slightly exceeding 65cm.
SETUP The second aspect is the arrangement of equipment, the desk frame, and weight distribution.
  1. Electronic equipment: I always have a 19" laptop on a stand and two 27" monitors on a dual monitor arm (one of them is occasionally rotated vertically). I also place a 17" laptop in front of or next to the monitors. It would be good to have space for a keyboard/notebook in front of the laptop and monitors (which is currently a tight fit with my current desk's 65cm depth).
  2. Furniture: I'm considering having one or two cabinets with drawers under the desk, similar to the image. The arrangement of the legs of the desk frame depends on the placement of the dressers and vice versa. My priority is to have stable desk legs rather than having cabinets. I might end up getting two dressers, or I might not want to buy any. Alternatively, I could buy one dresser and fit all my stuff in it (examples in the variants mentioned, not binding to any).
  3. Additional elements: I'd like to have a shelf under the desk to store controllers or small items like a phone on charge, headphones, glasses. At the back of the desk, I plan to have cable management, possibly with LED strips along the side.
  4. Weight distribution: I'm wondering how to distribute the weight of the desktop and equipment on the desk frame. The simplest approach would be to center the desk frame on the desktop, leaving an equal amount of desk on each side. But would it make more sense to shift the desktop forward relative to the frame? (similar to a crane, with a longer, lighter front (i.e., me, keyboard, mouse, etc.) and a shorter, heavier back (monitors, laptop)) However, I'm not well-versed in physics to calculate how much padding to provide. Should it be 10cm, 15cm? Maybe doesn't matter?
https://preview.redd.it/kmbiozzgnt4b1.png?width=1802&format=png&auto=webp&s=b044ed3c3bfda437dac459a1ba89c93bc8d028a7
Bonus question: I'm not particularly handy with tools. What would be the best way to join all these elements together so that I can easily disassemble/reassemble them (e.g., for moving or rearranging)? I suspect nails are not the answer, and screwing directly into the wood may not be ideal either, as it might weaken it.
submitted by peeping_johny to homeoffice [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 18:37 NoLingonberry4535 I wish my mom was dead

I wish my mom was dead.
I guess the title was pretty odd enough for someone to click this, and read it. I do mean it tho. I wish my mom was dead. And no, she is not someone who abuses me physically nor she does not provide for my needs. She do actually is a good provider. But you know, there is a big difference between a good provider and a good mother. What i think is that she is a good provider. She knows her responsibility, and she plays it well. She fed my needs, and my wants but not when it comes to my emotional needs. She sucks at giving it. Big time.
Well, A little backstory. Growing up, i was spoiled. I admit it. I had parents who gave it all to me, from toys to food, anything. I lived a pretty good life back when i was a kid. I was grateful, and I am still now. I grew up favoring my father much more than my mother. In such a young age, I hate her. No, I despise her. I can't really remember the time where i wished she just stayed at home. I always wish that she is always at work. I don't like her around for a reason that deep down I am scared of her judgement. It's like everything you do is wrong, and she will scold you with it to the point often times, her words are out of the belt. She even admit it once, telling that I should not make her mad because she tells things that are out of hand.
And of course, As a kid, those words stung like hell that it made me cry a river. Then I am being scolded for it. I thought at first, I am being sensitive because I am being scolded for crying. I remember it too well, she would tell me not to cry while having a tone that makes me cry. She told me to quit the drama because it will not work on her. I used to blame myself for being weak, that maybe I do deserve it for doing it. And that is me, at 10.
And that is where my misery begins. I constantly had a habit of lying to her. Even at small things because I am scared to be scolded, to be spanked, to be call names that I know I am not. Until, she catches me lying numerous times. Of course, that made her furious, and I understand it. Anyone would be mad if they caught someone lying to them. My constantly lying have eventually led her into not believing me, and the feeling is mutual. I stop also trusting her to trust me. So I just stop telling her things. From then, I never got to really open up to her. I don't entrust my emotions to her. And I’ll never will.
Things got really messy when I hit my puberty. I was 13. 1st year in Highschool. Everything was new to me, it was exciting, and so I explore them. From joining clubs to having crushes.
So, There is this one guy whom i started to technically just talk to. And I swear we were not dating (although i had a little crush on him) but it doesn't seem like that to my mom. For me, It was just talking. But in her point of view, It was more than that. The time she caught me chatting, and giggling with this guy. She immediately got furious. I know, and I understand why is she acting like that but It is out of hand when she started calling names again I know I am not. She always says that one day you will thank me for this. I would probably but I will not also forget why the need of calling me a ‘slut’. I was just 13.
When we had a heated argument, there is a time where I started to slip out of my mouth that I am depressed. I remember the time she asks if i need a psychiatrist. But It sounds like a very sarcastic tone. It felt as if my emotions at the time were too sensitive, that i am overreacting, i recall her even saying that I should stop the pity party act. It killed me. I really wanted to say, No mom, I do not need a psychiatrist. What i wanted was an apology for the names you called me before, for you to acknowledge that your words are deeper than the pain brought by spanking. I want you to say sorry. I just want an apology. That's it. But i guess, people don't really like admitting their own mistakes.
I was just 14, when she called me a slut for not cutting my nails short.
I was just 12, when she starts questioning me why i can't be like my cousins? The line goes like this, “at this age they know blah blah”. It's like she's telling me why i can't be any good like them? Why I am the bad one? Worst is, I start to believe it.
I was just 10, when she spanks me, when she pinches me everytime i did something not right. I deserve it yet those spanks, and pinches did not even matter to me. What even hurts the most? The names she calls me. It leaves like a scar. I felt like I was not 10.
I was just 11, when she started bablbling how lucky her sisters are to have my cousins like she is pertaining that how unfortunate she is that she has me.
I was just 11, when i had my first depression episode. I had a bunch of suicidal thoughts to myself, and how would i do it. I WAS JUST 11. I couldn't tell her, she was the reason why.
I was just 11, when she started invalidating my feelings to the point i think i am overreacting.
And the cycle goes on up until now I am writing this. At this point, I only see her as a provider, and not a mother. When I was young, she always wants me to fear her so I can do good. Now, I fear her, and I do good but I loathe her. I wish she was dead or I am. Either of us. I just wanted to go as far as away from her.
The thing is, I am not even sure why I am writing this. Maybe to vent out what has been inside of me for years. I can't even count to my fingers, how many times where I start to pray to God to at least do something to kill me. Maybe an accident. Or just me not waking up the next day. It sucks, really. I wanted to kill myself for a reason I wanted to get away from her, or maybe to let her guilt kills her when she saw my cold body in my bed, to maybe, i want her to recall all the names she called me, and feel really sorry about it.
As of now, I felt a lot more better now. I would take the credit all to myself for healing the emotional damage she brought me. It is not fully healed, but it is getting there. I thank God everyday, and those self help books that helped me to have a better mindset.
Looking back, I wanted and kind of understand my mother. Maybe my mother acted that way because I am her first child, she is new to parenting, and not really know how to handle nor raise a child, so she do what she can. Maybe she is just afraid for me to go in a wrong path that's why she use a rough method on me. Maybe that is her way of telling me she loves me, but on a second thought, I am also just a little girl back then. Maybe as a litte girl i do not deserve really to be called names such as slut, especially coming from my own mother.
Right now, I have a little brother. He is 8. He's my mom’s favorite, and my mom treats him like i wish she treated me before. I am happy for my little fella tho. He deserves it. But as i look at them, sometimes, cuddling, and laughing. I can't help but to ask, Am i just an experimental child for her to treat the next one better? It hurts. Really. But at least, my brother won't have mommy issues when he grow up.
Well, as of now, what i felt for her was neutral. Hatred is gone. I felt like i do not actually care about her at all. Hatred, Love, or Sympathy was all gone. I felt like I fake it sometimes, or force it but I knew deep down, It was long gone. Maybe because i am to numb to feel as much again. I secretly forgave her eventho she does not ask for forgiveness. It is a best way to peace, ya know.
But if someone were to ask me if she dies, will I cry?
The answer is no.
submitted by NoLingonberry4535 to stories [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 18:11 BayouDweller014 Crytek Needs to Think Outside the Box when Balancing Weapons: Some Very Constructive Criticism and a possible Dolch fix.

The dichotomy of Hunt's gunplay has been bothering me for a while. Some aspects are modelled perfectly and really represent the guns, but some aspects are borderline arcade. Their methodology to balancing weapons is mind-boggling in how limited the scope is at times. This recent ammo scarcity update is a perfect example of this, where they lack the creativity to effectively balance their guns, so they go for the smoothbrain "less ammo better" approach.
While the long ammo appreciators seethe and the long ammo haters breathe in their own farts in undeserved satisfaction, I have some food for thought on how to balance weapons using methods that already exist in Hunt's framework.
Sway. The largeheavier a rifle is, the harder it is to keep it aimed on target. Holding up something like a stocked pistol for minutes at a time would be easy, but aiming a nine pound rifle tends to induce a lot of fatigue pretty quickly. Crouching would eliminate most of the sway, but making heavier rifles more difficult to aim especially while moving would be a good nerf. Crytek reduced ADAD spam considerably a few years back but didn't solve the issue entirely. This would be a benefit for compact ammo players and a nerf for long ammo users.
Double Action Revolvers. Currently (fanning aside) there is absolutely no reason to take a Nagant over a Nagant Officer, despite there being some nuances. You can pull a DA trigger quickly or accurately, but not both. Old double action revolvers have a long, heavy trigger pull, and even with a tuned-up gun and years of skill and strength practice, it's still nowhere near as fast as in Hunt. (Don't rebut this with videos of Jerry Miculek with a custom tuned, modern race gun. Find a video of someone shooting an actual Nagant or any other DA revolver of the era. Those triggers SUCK, and pulling them fast means you're not going to hit accurately. Like this.) Instead of balancing double action revolvers by having the recoil go all over the place, there's an easy solution: have a half second or so delay from the time you click to the time the gun fires. This would introduce some variety to the usage of guns in Hunt, where learning the delay becomes a skill issue just like learning recoil patterns, bullet velocity, reload time, or any other factor. The Nagant's mechanism lends to an especially bad trigger, so a .5s delay would make sense, whereas the Colt 1892 has a much nicer trigger, so probably only a .25s delay.
Scopes. Magnified optics IRL have something called an eyebox, it's a very small area where your eye needs to be in relation to the scope to actually see through it(in the 1900s it was a VERY small area). Viewing it from anywhere outside that angle gets you a partial view or just blackness. Scopes of the era also transmitted less light, so the image was somewhat distorted, darkened, or otherwise not crystal-clear like it is in games. for an example of this, look for some scope reviews on Youtube. They're modern and much higher quality/visibility than scopes of the 1900s, but will illustrate the mechanics in ways photographs can't.
Zoom. In real life when you're focusing on a weapon's sights it does somewhat reduce your FOV through a sort of psychological tunnel vision effect, but it's nowhere near as pronounced as in Hunt. You can't just zoom in IRL when you aim down the sights of a gun. I'm not saying it needs to be 0%, but it's irritating how you're forced into a 2x or 3x zoom every time you aim down a weapon's sights in Hunt, which in turn makes it harder to use in close quarters since it severely bottlenecks your FOV. Reducing this would make it harder to nail shots at range and get easy headshots, which helps to close the weapon viability gap between long/compact/shotgun users.
Sights. Weapon sights of the era were smaller and nowhere near as open as they are in-game. The dolch's sights are a good example of being extremely generous, where tightening them up to look realistic would make it harder to hit shots since your gun obscures more of the target when aiming. It's a TINY notch. Here's a Rifle notch. The Bergmann and the Lebel are good examples of them being done 90% realistically in game, whereas the Mosin, Winfield, and Dolch are some of the most unrealistically open.
Balancing the Dolch. Context: I love the Mauser C96. I use one in nearly every game where it's possible. That said, the Dolch has been nerfed to the point where it's neither effective, practical, or fun to use in Hunt. Changing it to special ammo was a good call, but the absurdly exaggerated recoil, the crazy price, the high zoom, and the damage dropoff which is only marginally better than compact ammo make it straight up uncompetitive compared to the Nagant Officer (and the New Army Swift will be even better with the faster reload). My goal is to have a C96 in Hunt that's actually viable compared to it's peers, yet appropriately expensive and quirky since in 1895 it'd still have been a prototype.
On Early Mauser C96 pistols there is no way to top the gun off. If you pull the slide back, the rounds will basically vomit out the top and dump themselves onto the floor. Once it's locked open, if you insert a round the follower(which is holding the bolt back) will slam shut. In game, making it so that reloading the C96 empties it's current magazine onto the ground so that you can load the second 10 round clip would be a harsh measure of balancing, but fair. It pushes players to run their weapon dry, putting them in situations where they have to consider whether it's worth it to lose a few rounds, or to risk going into combat with only a few on hand. Additionally, allow clips containing less than 10 rounds to be loaded (since this is how it would be done!). Ballistically it's mostly fine, but give it a steeper damage drop off. A high velocity with a two hit kill in CQB but a severe damage dropoff isn't much different than taking a Nagant Officer with HV ammo. The zoom right now is too high, reducing your FOV too much in CQB but making hitting headshots at range easier (again, tighten up those sights!) Put the wavy crazy recoil back on par with the Nagant officer, charge ~$400 for it (long ammo rifle prices for a sidearm), and all things considered I think it would be a very well rounded weapon. Think about it as paying twice as much as an officer w/ HV and getting three extra rounds, a higher rate of fire, a finnicky reloading system, and worse sights. The precision would be the same thing but with 20% more zoom (since you're on a stock and can get up closer to the gun) and less recoil.

Ultimately, I think Crytek has done a great job with Hunt so far, but thinking out of the box and with an eye for how guns realistically would perform can provide some much needed avenues for balance. There is a golden middleground between realism and gameplay, and I wish them good luck in continuing to find it.
submitted by BayouDweller014 to HuntShowdown [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 18:06 Filliora ahhh i’m so bored talk to me about anything. [Chat] [Friendship]

I like piano, art, music and video games. I also like to write short stories !! Also i don’t care what gender or age just don’t be to old ye.
My fave games are silent hill, dark souls, minecraft and bloodborne i play a lot of other games tho.
I paint with acrylic and watercolour. Also i love reading literature and philosophy. I’m going through “letters from a stoic” by seneca rn.
I’m 17M btw
submitted by Filliora to MeetPeople [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 17:59 MiaMiaPP I cut one of my cat’s nails too short

It’s bleeding. Not much though and he doesn’t seem to mind it at all. But I’m panicking. I’m more panicky than he is. I’m peak panicky. I’m sorry baby I’m so sorry I didn’t mean to.
I found out he have stupid powder at home btw. Didn’t know this. But we do. Put some on his whittle pauw
I’m still peak panicky
submitted by MiaMiaPP to PointlessStories [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 17:59 roses-pearls Splits, tears, cracks IDK … Q

IDK how it happened but a nail has a tear or ??? a little over 1/4” below the pink. I’ve been wearing two bandages to protect it until it’s at or beyond the pink. But I need something better than these that need changed daily. Can I get acrylics or gels or whatever over top until it grows out?
submitted by roses-pearls to Nails [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 17:20 itstabsmyeye How do I get rid of advanced foot finals while I’m breastfeeding? Do I have to wait until I’m done?

(F27, 145lbs) Is there anyway I can treat foot fungus on the toenails while breastfeeding? I have a cream that I use, I’ve brought it up to several doctors and surprisingly none of them knew what I can do besides home remedies and a few creams that are safe to use during nursing. My feet are clear, my 2 pinky toenails are completely infected with the fungus. They are dry, brittle, yellow, thick and scary looking not a nail at all anymore type situation. I keep them clipped short, and at a glance my feet look fine it’s just those 2 toenails. I also have foot anatomy issues that cause those toes to overlap each other. That’s where the fungus started, in between those two toes. That part is healed right now, but it occasionally comes back. My main issue is the nails. Is there anything I can do right now or do I have to wait until I’m done breastfeeding so I can get rid of this with pills or something?
This has gone on for years, I’ve tried to treat them but I’ve been pregnant and breastfeeding for most of that time and as soon as I started the pill to get rid of it, I got pregnant again so I stopped.
I can only manage this, it’s not going away. I have adhd and it’s very hard to keep up with any routine but I try my best. I wash all my socks separately that the rest of the family, I clean the shower after I use it and have shower shoes, I clean the floors and wear socks or dedicated house shoes. My 7 year old still got it! I’m feel really bad that he has it now too but his is much worse. It’s not on his nails yet, but it’s on the top of his feet and we use a cream each night after a shower on dry feet. I have a 2 year old I’m afraid will get it, and a 6 month old starting to crawl so I’m afraid to even put him on the ground. I’ve been laying clean blankets on the floor all over the house, and making sure my 7 year old has house slides or socks on. Please help!
submitted by itstabsmyeye to AskDocs [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 17:15 hyperwalnut Todays EDC

Todays EDC
I’m off work today and I live in Texas so I wear lightweight shorts during the summer and they only have two pockets and no belt loops.
NAA Pug mini revolver in kydex holster clipped to assist and using an ulticlip
Wallet and mini hank in front left pocket
Flashlight in right pocket and SAK clipped to right pocket using a suspension clip
Items shown: NAA pug Spartan tactical kydex pug holster Frankie’s hankies mini hank Zpacks ultralight zip wallet LRI red photon freedom micro Surefire stiletto Victorinox deluxe tinker Tec accessories p7 suspension clip Niteize micro sbiner
Not shown: Apple watch iPhone 12 Pro Max Items in wallet - debit card, driver license, mini bic lighter, 2 bandaids, victorinox nail clippers, victorinox Swisscard nailcare, apple airtag, rite in the rain on the go notepad
submitted by hyperwalnut to EDC [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 17:14 unicornhornporn0554 3 months post shoulder surgery and finally *actually* getting back into my nails again 😁

3 months post shoulder surgery and finally *actually* getting back into my nails again 😁
So in January I broke my long ass nails and decided to start fresh knowing I’d have shoulder surgery soonish. Got it scheduled for March so I kept them short. Then I kept them short while I healed. Then we moved so they had to stay short some more. I’m finally done moving (mostly lol. Still some unpacking to do) and like 90% healed from surgery, so I think it’s time to grow them out again, probably not as long as last time but still hopefully much longer than they have been. Wish me luck!
submitted by unicornhornporn0554 to Nails [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 17:11 WeAreFanatical Star Deal


Title Discount USD GBP EUR Store & Rating Modes HLTB Cards Steam Deck ProtonDB
Hi-Fi RUSH 29% $21.29 £19.16 €21.29 Steam 97% with 14,150 reviews (Overwhelmingly Positive) Single-player 11 hours Yes Verified Gold
Feel the beat as wannabe rockstar Chai and his ragtag team of allies rebel against an evil tech megacorp with raucous rhythm combat! From Tango Gameworks, the studio that brought you The Evil Within and Ghostwire: Tokyo (no, really) comes Hi-Fi RUSH, an all-new action game where the characters, world and combat stylishly sync to the music!

Chai Versus the World

Labeled ‘defective’ after a shady corporate experiment mistakenly fuses a music player to his heart, Chai must now fight for his freedom in a slick animated world where everything – platforming puzzles, enemy attacks and even the colorful gags & banter - are synced to the beat.

Open Up the Mosh Pit!

Take on armies of corporate drones (read: actual robots) in satisfying, rhythm-amplified combat. Time your moves to pull off flashy Beat Hits, hard-hitting special abilities and even combination attacks with your allies! Want to show off? Go further and tap into the beat to amp up your skills and earn those covetous S-rank scores.

Rowdy Rebels Vs. Badass Bosses

Lead a squad of colorful teammates and take the fight to the heart of an, er, heartless corporation. Square off with each department’s boss, from Production to Marketing to Finance, each more ready to protect the company’s bottom line than the last in over-the-top battle sequences accompanied by their own music tracks!

Grab Your Headphones

Tap your toes to a killer mixtape of original music, as well as songs by Nine Inch Nails, The Prodigy, The Joy Formidable and more! Want to show off your skills to a live streaming audience? Fret not: Hi-Fi RUSH includes a streamer-friendly alternate audio mode to keep you from broadcasting copyrighted music.
submitted by WeAreFanatical to fanatical [link] [comments]


2023.06.08 16:48 pbogiiii My nails as a bridesmaid for my sister’s wedding🧚‍♀️

My nails as a bridesmaid for my sister’s wedding🧚‍♀️
This is the shortest nail I ever had, but lately I love short nails!
submitted by pbogiiii to Nails [link] [comments]