2007 buick lacrosse rear brake replacement

1995 F150

2023.06.08 18:05 JN_solideogloria 1995 F150

Considering this purchase. I just need something to get around my small town and an occasional trip into town (30 miles). Buying a car just to save for a nicer truck and pay down some debt.
The wife and I have a reliable mini van for the family..
What should I look out for? Reliability for this year? Thanks.
submitted by JN_solideogloria to whatcarshouldIbuy [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 16:30 khoafraelich789 Toyota HiAce 2023 review: LWB turbo-diesel

Toyota HiAce 2023 review: LWB turbo-diesel

Toyota doesn't make hasty decisions and with good reason. As one of the world’s largest and longest-running automotive manufacturers (founded 1937), it applies the same rigorous assessment of each new model proposal or running change.

That ensures each green light stacks up as a viable business case, from which the company is assured of getting a worthwhile return on its investment.

This pragmatic approach was evident in Toyota’s decision in 2022 to offer a rear barn-door option for its HiAce van. Given this iconic commercial vehicle was launched in 1967, it’s taken 55 years for Toyota to finally offer an alternative to the HiAce's signature swing-up tailgate.

Barn doors are ideal for those needing forklift access to cargo bays, so we assume this decision was prompted not only by competitors offering similar options but also growing demand from Toyota’s all-important fleet buyers. We recently tested one to see if this long-awaited option is on the money.

Price and Features – Does it represent good value for the price? What features does it come with?
Our test vehicle is the LWB (Long Wheel Base) powered exclusively by Toyota’s well proven 2.8 litre four-cylinder turbo-diesel. It’s available with either standard six-speed manual or optional six-speed automatic, like our example.

Painted in standard 'French Vanilla', it has a list price of $46,760, plus on-road costs, but ours is fitted with the new $750 Barn Door option which bumps the list price to $47,510.

It’s available on all LWB and SLWB (Super Long Wheel Base) variants except for the HiAce Crew, HiAce Commuter and LWB manual versions.

Our test vehicle is also the Panel Van variant, which means a buyer can order a full-panel left-hand side sliding door instead of the standard windowed version at no extra cost.

The HiAce comes ready for hard work on sturdy 16-inch steel wheels with replaceable plastic covers and 215/60R16 tyres plus a full-size spare, along with a large centre console offering a variety of storage options.

There are also useful creature comforts in the two-seater cabin like a tilt-and-reach adjustable leather-accented steering wheel, driver’s seat adjustable lumbar support, manual air-con, two 12-volt cabin accessory sockets, folding/heated exterior door mirrors with indicators, and more.

The two-speaker multimedia system has a big 8.0-inch touchscreen plus steering wheel audio controls and 'DAB+2' digital radio.

Multiple connectivity options include Apple CarPlay/Android Auto, Siri voice recognition, Bluetooth, sat-nav and 'Toyota Connected Services', which includes an app for mobile phones and safety/security functions like 'Stolen Vehicle Tracking', 'Automatic Collision Notification', 'SOS Emergency Call', and more.

Design – is there anything interesting about its design?
It’s a typically robust design comprising MacPherson strut front suspension, a leaf-spring live rear axle that’s excellent for load-carrying, variable-ratio rack and pinion steering and four-wheel disc brakes on all automatic variants, like ours.

The rear-wheel drive chassis has an inherent traction advantage over front-wheel drive vans, particularly on loose or slippery surfaces and with heavy payloads.

Its 1990mm height allows access to underground and multi-storey car parks and its 3210mm wheelbase boasts an impressively tight 11.0-metre turning circle.

The two-tone dash layout is neat and functional with easy-to-use controls and instrumentation.

There’s still no fold-down inboard armrest for the driver’s seat to enhance comfort on long hauls, but given we had to wait more than half a century for a barn-door option, we know Toyota won’t be rushed on these decisions.

Engine and transmission – What are the key stats for the engine and transmission?
HiAce’s venerable (1GD-FTV) 2.8 litre four-cylinder turbo-diesel produces 130kW at 3400rpm and in auto models like ours a meaty 450Nm of torque between 1600-2400rpm.

Maintenance procedures are simplified by its Euro 5 emissions compliance which doesn’t require AdBlue.

A smooth-shifting Aisin (AC60E) six-speed torque converter automatic optimises fuel economy with full converter lock-up on fourth, fifth and sixth gears, along with overdrive on fifth and sixth for relaxed highway driving. It also offers the choice of sequential manual-shifting if required.

The live rear axle is equipped with an electronically-controlled automatic limited-slip diff, which optimises the inherent traction advantage of rear-wheel drive.

Fuel consumption – How much fuel does it consume?
Toyota claims an official combined cycle average of 8.2L/100km.

After 215km of testing, without a load and with the automatic engine stop-start function switched off, our figure based on trip meter and fuel bowsers readings came in slightly higher at 9.8L/100km.

This single-digit economy was achieved purely in city and suburban driving, which is thrifty for a large commercial vehicle weighing more than two tonnes.

So, based on our figures, you could bank on a ‘real world’ driving range of around 700km from its 70-litre tank.

Practicality – How practical is the space inside?
With its 2225kg kerb weight and 3300kg GVM, the HiAce has a genuine one-tonne-plus payload rating of 1060kg, and up to 120kg of that can be carried on the roof using Toyota’s genuine accessory triple-bar roof rack set.

It also has a braked tow rating of up to 1500kg and with a GCM (how much it can legally carry and tow at the same time) of 4800kg, it can carry its peak 1060kg payload while towing that weight, which is a versatile set of numbers for a working van.

Cargo bay walls and doors are lined to mid-height, the roof is internally lined and there’s ample internal lighting.

It’s accessed from either side through sliding doors with 1010mm-wide openings, or from the rear through the barn-doors which are both equipped with demisters/windscreen wipers and can swing open to 180 degrees.

Each door also has a simple brace which can hold them at 90 degrees opening if required.

The cargo bay offers a sizeable 6.2 cubic metres of load volume, measuring 2530mm long, 1760mm wide and 1340mm high.

With 1268mm between the rear wheel housings and six floor-mounted load anchorage points, it can carry up to two standard 1165mm-square Aussie pallets or up to three 1200 x 800mm/1200 x 1000mm Euro pallets.

Its spacious driver’s cabin has numerous storage offerings including a large-bottle holder and bin in the base of each front door, small-bottle/cupholders in the centre and on either side of the dash, plus a single glove box.

The centre console is well designed, comprising an open storage tray at floor level and a large lidded box between the seats.

This not only has cavernous internal storage but there’s also an external shelf at the front, two large-bottle holders at the rear and another shallow tray set into the lid, which when closed can double as a handy work desk.

What’s it like as a daily driver?
The big front doors swing wide open to provide easy access to the cabin, where it’s easy to find a comfortable driving position given ample seat adjustment that includes lumbar support, plus a height-and-reach-adjustable wheel and big left footrest.

Responsive steering and strong braking, combined with a reasonably supple ride quality when empty or lightly loaded, makes for a comfortable daily work environment.

This is enhanced by commendably low internal noise levels for a van without a bulkhead between the cabin and cargo bay. We suspect the full-length roof lining helps here.

Like all panel vans, the solid-walled cargo bay creates a huge blind-spot over the driver’s left shoulder which can’t be avoided. And the central join of the barn doors obscures vision through the cabin’s rear-view mirror.

However, the portrait-shaped door mirrors are a decent size and combined with a suite of driver aids like blind-spot monitoring, rear cross-traffic alert, rear parking sensors and reversing camera, a competent driver can easily steer clear of trouble.

And it has easy manoeuvrability thanks to the tight 11-metre turning circle and lightness of the variable-ratio steering at parking speeds.

The 2.8-litre turbo-diesel has good flexibility with strong low-rpm response thanks to its ample 450Nm of torque.

The smooth and snappy shift protocols of the six-speed auto optimise engine response, which is most evident in stop-start city and suburban driving.

It also delivers relaxed and economical highway travel, particularly with the cruise control activated, with overdrive requiring less than 2000rpm to maintain 110km/h.

What’s it like for tradie use?
It’s ironic that a forklift should be out of service on the same day we wanted to test improved forklift access! However, that’s what happened when we went to load up the HiAce for our usual GVM test.

Even so, you don’t need to be a forklift aficionado to see that the 180-degree opening will provide clear access to the cargo bay.

We also know from experience that the HiAce is a consummate one-tonner, having previously secured 975kg in the cargo bay which with driver equalled the van’s 1060kg payload limit.

There was ample rear suspension travel remaining thanks to minimal compression of the robust leaf springs.

The engine made light work of hauling this payload, with effortless highway cruising and particularly strong performance in hilly terrain.

It never felt sluggish on climbs and engine-braking was excellent on long, steep descents. As a workhorse, the HiAce is difficult to fault.

Safety – What safety equipment is fitted? What safety rating?
The current HiAce generation came armed with a maximum five-star ANCAP rating when launched in 2019 and still sets a safety benchmark.

There are seven airbags plus a plethora of active features including AEB with day/night pedestrian and day cyclist detection, trailer sway control, hill-start assist, lane departure alert with steering assist, road sign assist, blind-spot monitoring, rear cross-traffic alert, front and rear parking sensors, reversing camera, and more.

Ownership – What does it cost to own? What warranty is offered?
The HiAce is covered by a five-yeaunlimited km warranty.

Scheduled servicing is set at relatively short six month/10,000km intervals, whichever occurs first.

Capped-price of $290 per service covers the first six scheduled services over three years or 60,000km.

Source: carsguide
submitted by khoafraelich789 to CarInformationNews [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 14:36 Tonysteve Please provide basic info when asking for advice.

We have had a ton of posts lately of people asking for advice and giving the most vague details or no photos or estimate or anything to go off of. From the person yesterday asking how something could cost $3800 but provided no pics, no vehicle info, and no estimate, to someone with a zoomed in pic of I think a spoiler asking how much or how to fix.
Yes context matters. What’s the vehicle, what part of the vehicle, what’s the material type, and so on. Vehicle type matters because if you are asking if your 2007 camry bumper is savable it probably is but it’s probably cheaper to replace due to part cost. Location of damage matters because if it’s a dent in the middle of a door blending may not be needed but if it’s in the rear of the rear door 4” away from the quarter on a Pearl white then blending is needed. If it’s a dent in a hood it’s going to matter if it’s aluminum or steel if it can be repaired or not. A Tesla has way different repair guidelines and material construction than a 2012 Chevy pick up.
We don’t and shouldn’t do pricing snd estimates for a number of reasons but it’s hard to give repair advice if I can’t tell if I’m looking at a 2x4 piece of wood or a 2023 Audi.
Maybe some kind of bot that locks posts if you don’t provide vehicle info but I’m not savvy in that way and don’t know if that would even work for us industry folk making joke posts or rant posts.
Lastly no we can’t tell you how scratches and a dent ended up on your bumper. You probably tapped something snd didn’t know it or Sasquatch did it.
Rant over.
submitted by Tonysteve to Autobody [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 13:32 marvinorman Brake pedal goes to the floor

Every other time I depress the brake pedal, it goes to the floor and I barely have any stopping power, until I release my foot and depress the brake pedal again. It then builds pressure as usual and feels firm and I have good brakes, but if I keep holding it (braking downhill for example), I can feel the pedal suddenly sinking down an inch then it gets firm again, sinks another inch then firm again etc, until it’s down to the floor again. I can also hear a hissing noise every time I depress the brake pedal, as if air is escaping-kind of noise.
I’ve recently bled the brakes on both sides in the rear, after replacing both brake calipers that were rusted out. But I had this issue before that and it hasn’t improved or worsened afterwards. I haven’t tried bleeding the fronts though. Can’t visibly see any leaks from any brake lines, and brake fluid is topped off.
Any suggestions?
Mercedes Sprinter van -2000
submitted by marvinorman to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 10:11 watchursix Where to find online owner's manual for older vehicles?

I have recently purchased a 1995 Toyota Granvia that was imported to New Zealand, and I am dying to find an owner's manual. It's an XH-10 HiAce/Regius/Granvia with the 1KZ-TE engine, and I'm beside myself with frustration trying to find a copy. The Toyota website does not even have HiAce/Regius/Granvia models as an option, nor do they provide manuals that predate 2013. I've tried to find archives of their sites to no avail. Is this a lost cause?
I really need a manual because I've run into a few issues with this aging van:
Does anyone know where to find "vintage" owner's manuals? I really just want a circuit guide and a map for the fuse boxe(s)... It's an awesome van, but it's becoming the Mystery Machine.
Thanks to anyone who knows anything!
submitted by watchursix to Toyota [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 07:33 starmielvl99 Buying my first car, I want something fun and reliable to drive

I am getting a new car, I won't be driving it around the city that much, mostly on a bit longer rides, 100 kms or more. My budget is not that big, I'd like to spend up to 7-8000 euro. I've been gathing info for the last couple of weeks and oh man I've gotten so many advices from various people but something they are opposite to what i've already heard.
What do you think about getting a older honda. I'd get it to a mechanic for a checkout and also check it on carvertical.com
These 2 got my attention.
2005 Honda Civic Sedan 1.6i vtec for 4.200 EURO (it has 99500 miles)
Description from the add:
Honda Civic VII generation 2005 year 1.6i vtec for sale
The car has been in my possession since the sixth month of 2021 and was purchased in Rijeka from the first owner. Regularly serviced and since it has been in my possession, it has been serviced at Honda Ruting Zagreb, where a major service was done a little less than two years ago at 134,000 km, and a minor service at 150,000 km and at 160,000 a week ago. In excellent condition. Registered for a year !!
The car comes with two sets of rims: a summer set of 16-inch alloy rims with new Pirelli tires and a winter set of 15-inch steel rims with Continental tires DOT 2921. In addition, the car is equipped with a Honda Civic EP3 sports three-spoke steering wheel (same generation hatchback only) and multimedia Phonocar VM012, which includes the option of Apple Carplay and Android auto and many other options. The rear exhaust pot in Lastovčić was replaced. The car also comes with a new spoiler that needs to be painted and installed, and new aibach springs that are planned to be installed and certified soon. The car also has a metal gear lever, but it is possible to return the original lever. I have two keys, one of which is with a remote for central locking.

2006 Honda Accord 2,0 Sport for 6,300 EURO (it has 130 000 miles)

Description from the add:
Honda accord 20i,
Reg until: 14/03/24.
Regularly serviced,
Original kilometers,
Print kilometers from the technical,
Alu enkei 17 inch,
New 225/45/17 all-season tires,
16 and 17 inch tires written in the booklet,
Type with front lip + bumper and mask from non-redesign,
Last lip redesign model original from type s model,
New rear jaws,
New rear discs + disc plates,
New oil in the brakes,
New rubber carpets,
Service done, on the engine, (oil and filters,
Mtf3 oil in gearbox new, spark plugs new,)
The vehicle is in top condition and completely correct,
Without further investment,
Substitutions excluded,
I do not respond to messages and e-mails,
The price is not fixed,
More info by calling the contact mobile.
submitted by starmielvl99 to whatcarshouldIbuy [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 07:04 Massive_Equivalent56 Honda CRV 2006 maintenance repairs. Price is in AUD. Please tell me if the price is reasonable and which repairs are not necessary.

Honda CRV 2006 maintenance repairs. Price is in AUD. Please tell me if the price is reasonable and which repairs are not necessary. submitted by Massive_Equivalent56 to AskMechanics [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 04:29 vinlll Does anyone have an idea what that creaking sound that happens every 1-2 seconds could be?

Does anyone have an idea what that creaking sound that happens every 1-2 seconds could be?
Pls excuse my leg lmao but its the only vid i could take at the time. Noise is coming from the rear. Replaced all the sway bar links, sway bar bushings, rear spring and strut, front spring and strut. Everything is torqued to spec and i cant find any play on the suspension. Another thing is my car makes a popping/clicking sound when i let go of my gas pedal so when the weight transfers from the rear to the front, took it to the dealership and was told it was the front brakes, replaced the rotors and pads and noise still persists on weight transfers. Any input that has dealt and fixed similar problems would be greatly appreciated! And oh this happened a week after i replaced all the shocks and springs.
submitted by vinlll to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 03:14 Tacky_D Uneven Brake Pad/Rotor Wear

Uneven Brake Pad/Rotor Wear
I have a 2020 outback (took ownership in Oct 2019) with just over 25,000 miles. The last time we had it at the dealer (01/2023) they mentioned that our front inner pads were getting low and should be replaced soon. In the past few weeks the car has started making some noises that I assume are related to the brakes so I purchased new front+rear pads and rotors.
While starting the work today I noticed some odd (to me) wear on the driver's front inner pad and rotor surface:
It seems really strange to need new pads after 25k miles as we're pretty conservative drivers, and I want to make sure we get a long life out of these pads and rotors. Before we start putting miles on the new parts, does it seem that there might be something up with at least one of the calipers? Not only did the inner pad have this wear pattern, but there is uneven wear between the inner and outer pads.
My experience with replacing brakes is pretty limited but while swapping out the parts nothing stood out to me (e.g., stuck caliper slide pins).
submitted by Tacky_D to Subaru_Outback [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 02:42 SamVa79 2007 VCS, ABS, TPMS, Check Engine Light

Hey everyone to to the sub, not new to automotive work in the least.
Have the subject Tundra with the aforementioned lights.
Has the follow codes
DTCs for each will speed sensor missing signal
DTC for missing vehicle speed
Associated DTCs in the ECM, ABS/VCS for speed sensor faults and or DTCs in the other modules.
This occurred about a month after replacing a flooded charcoal canister. Part was replaced with a Rock Auto Source Standard Motor Products part. The part is when removed from the box is stamped Toyota with the Toyota part numbers.
Fixed the evap issue, but to remove the canister you disconnect the pig tail coming from the rear wheel speed sensors above the axle to the canister harness. I have triple checked this connection is tight, pins are good.
I just inherited the truck, it has sat more or less for 3 years, no sign of mice or squirrel damage anywhere.
Occasionally if you clear thr codes you can go 10 or 12 miles before they reset so it isn't an immediate hard fault. But it is very repeatable.
Any similar occurrences? It's pretty obvious the speed sensors are dropping out, and the ABS module isnt seeing vehicle speed. But do these have module faults often? Common wirining issues? Doubtful it the sensors themselves.
2007, 4.7, Auto, 2WD, Double Cab
submitted by SamVa79 to tundra [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 02:08 frugaly Help prioritize what I really need to fix?

Help prioritize what I really need to fix?
2006 Lexus IS 250
What should I get fixed? What do I need to prioritize, and what can wait? I can’t afford to do all of this…
Never worked on cars before, but I’m willing to try. Or is it time to just get a new car?
submitted by frugaly to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 01:17 BGor94 Is this CRF 250x with R mods too much for a beginner adult? I’m 6’4 190lbs. Mods listed below

Is this CRF 250x with R mods too much for a beginner adult? I’m 6’4 190lbs. Mods listed below
Modifications: -2007 Honda CRF 250 R Head w/ Kibblewhite Valves and Springs. -CRF 250 R piston. -Hot Cam 1039-1 -Flatland guards - Radiator, skid, front brake disc. -MSR rear brake disc guard. -Suspension serviced by ESP (2/22/23). -BRP top triple clamp w/ Scott’s Damper. -Dr.D Exhaust w/ silencer&spark arrestor. -Sunline SL-1 arched footpegs. -Baja design front headlight. -Shorai lithium battery. -Scott’s stainless steal oil filter. -New TwinAir air filter. -CCC mod’s (closed coarse competition)
submitted by BGor94 to Dirtbikes [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 01:08 Aggressive-Major69 looking for some tips on my future build

First i will let you know that i know my stuff but my stuff is bad stuff xD
I will need to change wheels for ones with disc brakes and replace rear one with sprocket but anything else is great (let's just not talk about headless screw trying to hold my bike rack xD)
I want to make it either am6 water cooled or minarelli (don't have fucking idea with one will be more reliable and price to performance ratio bcuz never looked on how much am6 engine, grill and everything needed will cost)
So basically I'm looking into speed, reliability and comfort, and no I'm not gonna to buy everything at once but this will be like slowly upgrading it + will need to add to cost front Shimano hydraulic brake and some spray paint, clear coat and primer to cost
So guys tell me what you got and make my bicycle proud that it's slowly becoming dirt bike xD
(Btw is that normal that when i sit on bike front fork don't move but then instantly goes down ?)
submitted by Aggressive-Major69 to motorizedbicycles [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 00:34 SummaryNewt69 Is this a reasonable price to get my car fixed? If not what would be and/or how hard would it be for me to do it myself. Also my window motor gears are stripped I believe so gotta do that too lol.

Is this a reasonable price to get my car fixed? If not what would be and/or how hard would it be for me to do it myself. Also my window motor gears are stripped I believe so gotta do that too lol. submitted by SummaryNewt69 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]

2023.06.07 23:31 jlaw325 Water collecting in rear window track

Water collecting in rear window track
Hi all, I’ve noticed water collecting in the track of the rear sliding glass window after heavy rain. The track eventually overflows and water runs down the back of the cab. Any idea where the water could be coming from? I’ve already had the entire window and third brake light replaced by dealer. Thanks in advance.
submitted by jlaw325 to ram_trucks [link] [comments]

2023.06.07 21:16 Catching-Bullets Best place to buy shocks / struts

2007 tahoe ltz with z55 suspension, have to replace rear auto ride compressor so going to go ahead and do the front struts / rear shocks at same time. So many different options and combinations having a hard time finding decent price and also figuring out what I need.. depending on cost I may be able to do my drop at same time
submitted by Catching-Bullets to ChevyTahoe [link] [comments]

2023.06.07 20:30 khoafraelich789 Used Car Guide: 1996-2010 Dodge Viper

Used Car Guide: 1996-2010 Dodge Viper
5 tips to find a first-class example of a secondhand Dodge Viper.

I’ve got a Dodge Viper problem. Despite their horrifying fuel consumption, restricted outward visibility, leg-singeing rocker panels, and an exhaust note like a hot-rod UPS truck, I’ve enjoyed driving two of these machines for the better part of 10 years and about 65,000 kilometres to date.

My first Viper was a 2000 GTS Coupe. My childhood dream car, we spent five years and about 45,000 kilometres together driving around town, going on road trips, lapping various tracks, and attending car shows and the like.

About four years ago I traded this unit in for a 2008 Dodge Viper SRT-10 Coupe. We’ve done about 20,000 kilometres together, partaking in a similar range of activities.

I’ve had zero mechanical problems associated with the driveline in either of my cars, and little more than the odd electronic hiccup resulting from a weak battery or wonky sensor. I’ve owned a lot of cars, and my two Vipers have been among the most reliable — second only to my 1993 Nissan 240SX.

The key success factor here is that I’ve had both units checked over fully by a qualified ‘Viper Tech’ in a dealer setting, on my dime, before purchase. In both cases, this pre-purchase checkup was worth the investment. For my first Viper, the inspection revealed thousands worth of upcoming repair- and replacement parts which helped me negotiate a much better deal; on my second car, it picked up a dead trunk-release button which the selling dealership fixed on their dime, and also confirmed that this car was in otherwise excellent shape.

To be clear: the best thing you can do before buying a used Dodge Viper is to make arrangements to have it seen by a Viper-trained technician in a dealer setting.

Still, after a decade of V-10 Mopar motoring, I’ve also come up with some additional tips to share with potential used Dodge Viper shoppers, especially those considering a vintage like mine — that is, the second- to fourth-generation cars.

Following these tips can help you enjoy a more trouble-free driving experience and avert potential headaches or surprises with your new toy.

Door hinges

I’ve found the door hinges in both of my Vipers to be quite fussy, and I’m not alone.

In my 2000 GTS, the doors seemed to sag with repeated use over time. The driver’s door hinge eventually needed to be readjusted multiple times to prevent the door from striking the body when closing. The out-of-alignment door hinge also caused damage to the weather seals around the door, resulting in a small water leak.

The hinge can be loosened, adjusted, and fastened back into place, but the process is frustrating and somewhat complicated if you’re not the most mechanically-inclined (like me). Professional help may be the best course of action if the Viper you’re considering seems to be suffering from saggy doors; it’s not a difficult job for someone who knows what they’re doing.

My 2008 Viper SRT-10 is exhibiting similar symptoms this year. The driver’s door has begun emitting a loud creak when opening fully (or closing), and lubrication of the hinge hasn’t helped. The door is rubbing somewhere, and the hinge needs to be readjusted.

Note that leaving this issue unchecked can cause collateral damage to the weather seals (pricey) and window glass (pricier), so you’ll want to address it as soon as you notice any warning signs.

These warnings include doors that seem to stick during some portion of their movement, doors that don’t close properly with a light push, doors that fail to engage the striker properly or even bounce back open, doors that require slamming to latch shut, or any used Viper whose door-mounted weather seals are cracked, ripped, or otherwise visibly damaged.

In sum: be sure the doors open, close and latch without undue force or noise, and that all weather seals are intact and in solid shape.

Powertrain stresses
To prevent undue wrenching of the door hinge, I always start the engine after the doors are closed.

Firing up the Viper’s big V-10 twists the car back and forth (it’s all that torque), but can also wrench on the heavy doors and their small hinges, which seems to shift things out place in quick order. With the doors closed at engine startup, this excessive wrenching of the hinges is prevented.

Fun fact: during a tour of the Dodge Viper factory, one long-time Viper craftsman told me that the original hinge design was intended to be steel (stronger), though the engineers pushed for a lighter aluminum hinge (softer). In the day, he figured this might cause problems for some owners, and it turns out he was right.

“The fifth-generation cars use a different hinge, and the doors are much lighter, since they’re made from an aluminum film that’s shaped by air in a mould” he said.

Wheel alignment

Dodge Vipers have, I figure, a somewhat unfounded reputation for dodgy handling and being difficult to control. In my opinion, these problems are mainly driver-related (not car-related), but that’s a topic for a different story.

Of course, the Viper’s steam-roller tires do try and follow every nook, cranny, and tar-strip on the road, which means the car often seems to be squirming and shuffling even as you drive along in a straight line.

Still, don’t underestimate the difference that a proper wheel alignment can make. I recently had one performed in a dealer setting on my 2008 for the first time, and the difference in handling, stability, and response while steering and braking were notable — especially in terms of reduced workload at the wheel. It’s easy to assume ‘this is just how Vipers handle’, though a fresh alignment instantly made my 2008 feel more precise, more responsive, and less labor-intensive to drive on the highway.

In my case, the difference was night-and-day. As an added bonus, proper alignment means that the (very pricey) tires won’t wear as quickly.

Power windows

The power windows on both of my Vipers were finicky and fussy. Compared to most cars, I found the power windows in both of my Vipers to feel and sound harsh when in use. They’ve also been the cause of various headaches, especially in my 2008.

This Viper has a feature called window indexing, a fancy way of saying that the window drops a half-inch or so when the door handle is pressed, allowing it to clear the body of the car and for the door to open and close more easily.

The indexing function on the passenger side window failed one day, meaning that opening the passenger door meant catching the upper ‘corner’ of the glass inside of the opening, contacting it and wearing down the finish. Closing the passenger door likewise resulted in contact of the window against the body in the same spot.

This can all result in wear to the vehicle’s paint, a noisier drive, and an increased likelihood of damaging the Viper’s finicky and sometimes-fragile power window hardware because of an unintended impact.

On your test drive, note that one, both, or none of the power windows may be suffering this problem, and that the problem may be sporadic in nature. I can’t offer a fix that’s worked reliably for me, though disconnecting and reconnecting the battery does typically fix the issue for a time.

On your test drive, confirm that both power windows work as expected, and be sure to carefully inspect the outer edge of the upper door opening above the window itself for signs of marking, paint damage, or scuffing that indicate contact.

Cooling system and overheating

Some owners have reported overheating of their Viper, especially in situations with high ambient temperatures, and during sustained periods of heavy-throttle driving, such as in a motorsports setting. Other owners have reported random engine overheating as a possibility from time to time, with a temperature gauge that may suddenly push towards the dangerous red zone on the coolant gauge randomly, and without warning. Many other owners have experienced no overheating issues from their Vipers.

Several factors may contribute to a Viper’s engine overheating, as well as inconsistent or seemingly random coolant-temperature fluctuations.

To protect yourself and avoid surprises, start with a pre-purchase inspection that includes the used Viper’s cooling system, including the coolant level and condition, an inspection of the water pump and surrounding area (for leaks), all hoses, the thermostat, the cooling fan(s) and associated wiring and relays, and the radiator itself.

Have a professional inspect both the engine oil and engine coolant for signs of cross-contamination, which could indicate a head-gasket problem.

On your test drive, take note of the coolant temperature gauge at various points. The needle should settle somewhere around the middle of the gauge and stay there, perhaps creeping up slightly over the halfway mark on hotter days. If the gauge suddenly climbs towards the red zone for no apparent reason, the vehicle you’re considering should be seen by a professional before you buy.

In this application, an overheating engine can be the result of a simple problem like an air bubble in the cooling system, or a serious one like a failing head gasket. You’ll want to know before you buy.

Run the Viper’s heater on your test-drive, too. If functioning properly, the heater will have no trouble pushing a lot of hot air into the Viper’s cabin once the engine is warmed up. If that’s not the case, or if the heat suddenly seems to disappear, have the system checked professionally. Some owners have successfully fixed problems by ‘burping’ air bubbles out of the cooling system. Ask a professional if you’re not sure how.

Driveline clunks

The Viper’s driveline is not a pinnacle of refinement, and certain noises and vibrations are more prominent than you may be used to. The question is which of these are normal, and which are cause for concern?

When checking out the user Viper you’re considering, quiet the cabin and listen for a few specific sounds in a few specific situations to prevent unwanted surprises.

First, place the vehicle in neutral with the engine running at idle and the clutch pedal pressed fully. Slowly release the clutch pedal, listening closely for any sign of a scraping, whirring, or grinding sound as the clutch is released. If you hear such a sound, press the clutch pedal in again to see if it goes away. The sound may seem to be coming through the floor near the driver’s feet. This sound can indicate a worn throw-out bearing, a part usually changed with the clutch.

I’ve noticed this sound on both of my Vipers. In both cases, it’s remedied by replacing the clutch, which includes a new bearing. You can drive your Viper while it’s making this noise, but if the bearing or associated hardware eventually fails, your clutch may become unusable.

You’ll also want to be on the lookout for unwanted sounds from the rear differential. The oil in this component needs to be changed regularly with a specific gear oil and a precise amount of friction-modifying additive. Using the wrong type or amount of gear oil or friction modifier can result in unfavourable consequences, including rear-axle noise. If your rear-axle oil isn’t serviced regularly by someone who knows what they’re doing, you’ll likely be hearing from your Viper’s rear end.

When driving a Viper, the differential sits just behind and beneath the driver. Though some whirring and light clunking from time to time is largely considered normal, any binding, whining, or heavy clunks — especially at low speed — can be signs of trouble.

Final Thought
These tips are designed to help test-driving shoppers more easily identify possible trouble areas reported by some owners. An attentive test-drive and shopping process that focuses on the areas above can help you find a first-class example of a secondhand 1996-2010 Dodge Viper.

Source: driving ca
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2023.06.07 08:47 boogerlicktootsiepop Hers what I did, what would you do next? - 2010 2.5i

Back in January I was the beneficiary of a 2010 2.5i limited, now with 155,000 miles on it. The family loves the car and are trying to make sure we get several more years out of it.
I’m fairly handy, not a mechanic. Below are some repairs I’ve done and those that are next on my list or am thinking about.
What would you look at doing next for ensure the life of the car as well as some quality of life improvements? I live in the northeast, if that changes or adds to the suggestions.
Here is what I’ve done so far:
Here is what I have on my list to do and what I’m looking at next:
Links to a few videos that helped me along the way:
Thanks in advance!
submitted by boogerlicktootsiepop to Subaru_Outback [link] [comments]

2023.06.07 07:16 Harborsidemotorcycle Skidding/Locking Trailer Brakes

I drive a 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 4X4, 5.3L, 4.11 diff, and tow a 1998 21ft dual axle camping trailer, 4K lbs when fully loaded.
I have a Tekonsha Prodigy P3 Trailer Brake Controller that worked beautifully in my last truck 2001 GMC Sierra 1500, but in the 2005 it never goes completely to 0 and will fluctuate between 0-2 braking level. It's impossible to feel if it's actually braking at this level. I can only feel the brakes start to come on around level 3. I have it mounted level and it is sensitive to it's orientation. Long story short I'm not 100% confident in this brake controller.
On a trip last week, I tow out of town, checked trailer brakes and they take a little while to warm up. I dial them up on the highway to 5.9 max and 3rd power level and they're working great. Later we're towing stoplight to stop light and the left rear tire locks up and screeches. I dialed back the power level on the brake controller and keep going. The rig was feeling like when I pulled away from a full stop there was a trailer brake that was stuck closed and would release after getting pulled a bit, but now tire chirping/screeching. Finally we're towing downhill low speeds in the campground, plenty of tree debris on the road, and the same tire locks up again. Right after I parked it, I felt that only the driver side wheel hubs were warm. Right side hubs were cool.
5 days camping at Shaver Lake, CA at 5000ft was a blast.
On the tow down the mtn, I kept the tranny in 2nd gear to not overheat the brakes and that worked great. It was easy to keep it around 40mph at 3rpm and brake sparingly.
The scary part was that I was pulling away from a dead stop onto a highway onramp and the left rear trailer tire brake locked. The trailer tire was screeching and smoking as I'm trying to accelerate. I turned the brake controller way down after that and didn't have any further issues.
So why I'm sharing this story is to ask the community:
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2023.06.07 06:54 RocketManN53 K5 Blazer Rear disc brake conversion kit

I have a 73 K5 Blazer that I want to replace the rear drum brakes with disc brakes and I was wondering if anyone has a suggestion for a good conversion kit as the ones I have seen have had some off-putting reviews.
submitted by RocketManN53 to classictrucks [link] [comments]

2023.06.07 06:43 aardee92 Brake pad & rotor recommendations

Been told to replace my brake pad and rotors for the front and rear on my 2019 CX5 Grand Touring Reserve. Would be great to get some recommendations!
submitted by aardee92 to CX5 [link] [comments]

2023.06.07 06:39 No_One_Important-- 1989 Chevy Scottsdale 1500 Pick-up Brakes

1989 Chevy Scottsdale 1500 Pick-up Brakes
Hi folks,
1989 Chevy Scottsdale 1500 Pick-up.
Front disc...gone. Needs pads and rotors, not an issue as that will not be my first rodeo.
That being said, I absolutely hate drum brakes, which of course is rear. Lately, I can feel the passenger rear brake dragging. So today I jacked her up, got her on stands and removed all the wheels to inspect.
Passenger side wheel sure was stuck, took some hammer and some heat to get the wheel off the hub, but got through that. Next I pulled the drums for a look inside.
Two problems, one there appears to be a chip in one of the brake shoes, two I can't get the drums back on...this always happens to me. First I start fucking with the star wheel adjustment, but no matter what I can't get them on. Yes, I've made sure the parking brake is disengaged. Should I turn the star "Up" way from me, or "Down" toward me if I am facing the outside of the hub?
It also appears drivers side rear Brake wheel cylinder has one piston stuck. I'm thinking that's going to be a replacement... Question is, it appears the shoes still have some good meat on them and the inside of the drum looks okay.
A) should I attempt to re-use the shoes, springs, etc. or bite the bullet and replace the whole thing when I go to do the wheel cylinder?
B) any tips on how to get drums back on.
I've included some photos of the chip in the shoe. I appreciate any advice. I'd like to state I am fairly mechanically inclined, but I'm not master tech.
Thank you.
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