2007 buick lacrosse rear brake replacement

​
https://preview.redd.it/y1na5wq9oc3b1.png?width=1139&format=png&auto=webp&s=c3736453601632ca509e6878b140256178153f57
Toyota doesn't make hasty decisions and with good reason. As one of the world’s largest and longest-running automotive manufacturers (founded 1937), it applies the same rigorous assessment of each new model proposal or running change.
​
That ensures each green light stacks up as a viable business case, from which the company is assured of getting a worthwhile return on its investment.
​
This pragmatic approach was evident in Toyota’s decision in 2022 to offer a rear barn-door option for its HiAce van. Given this iconic commercial vehicle was launched in 1967, it’s taken 55 years for Toyota to finally offer an alternative to the HiAce's signature swing-up tailgate.
​
Barn doors are ideal for those needing forklift access to cargo bays, so we assume this decision was prompted not only by competitors offering similar options but also growing demand from Toyota’s all-important fleet buyers. We recently tested one to see if this long-awaited option is on the money.
​
Price and Features – Does it represent good value for the price? What features does it come with?
Our test vehicle is the LWB (Long Wheel Base) powered exclusively by Toyota’s well proven 2.8 litre four-cylinder turbo-diesel. It’s available with either standard six-speed manual or optional six-speed automatic, like our example.
​
Painted in standard 'French Vanilla', it has a list price of $46,760, plus on-road costs, but ours is fitted with the new $750 Barn Door option which bumps the list price to $47,510.
​
It’s available on all LWB and SLWB (Super Long Wheel Base) variants except for the HiAce Crew, HiAce Commuter and LWB manual versions.
​
Our test vehicle is also the Panel Van variant, which means a buyer can order a full-panel left-hand side sliding door instead of the standard windowed version at no extra cost.
​
The HiAce comes ready for hard work on sturdy 16-inch steel wheels with replaceable plastic covers and 215/60R16 tyres plus a full-size spare, along with a large centre console offering a variety of storage options.
​
There are also useful creature comforts in the two-seater cabin like a tilt-and-reach adjustable leather-accented steering wheel, driver’s seat adjustable lumbar support, manual air-con, two 12-volt cabin accessory sockets, folding/heated exterior door mirrors with indicators, and more.
​
The two-speaker multimedia system has a big 8.0-inch touchscreen plus steering wheel audio controls and 'DAB+2' digital radio.
​
Multiple connectivity options include Apple CarPlay/Android Auto, Siri voice recognition, Bluetooth, sat-nav and 'Toyota Connected Services', which includes an app for mobile phones and safety/security functions like 'Stolen Vehicle Tracking', 'Automatic Collision Notification', 'SOS Emergency Call', and more.
​
Design – is there anything interesting about its design?
It’s a typically robust design comprising MacPherson strut front suspension, a leaf-spring live rear axle that’s excellent for load-carrying, variable-ratio rack and pinion steering and four-wheel disc brakes on all automatic variants, like ours.
​
The rear-wheel drive chassis has an inherent traction advantage over front-wheel drive vans, particularly on loose or slippery surfaces and with heavy payloads.
​
Its 1990mm height allows access to underground and multi-storey car parks and its 3210mm wheelbase boasts an impressively tight 11.0-metre turning circle.
​
The two-tone dash layout is neat and functional with easy-to-use controls and instrumentation.
​
There’s still no fold-down inboard armrest for the driver’s seat to enhance comfort on long hauls, but given we had to wait more than half a century for a barn-door option, we know Toyota won’t be rushed on these decisions.
​
Engine and transmission – What are the key stats for the engine and transmission?
HiAce’s venerable (1GD-FTV) 2.8 litre four-cylinder turbo-diesel produces 130kW at 3400rpm and in auto models like ours a meaty 450Nm of torque between 1600-2400rpm.
​
Maintenance procedures are simplified by its Euro 5 emissions compliance which doesn’t require AdBlue.
​
A smooth-shifting Aisin (AC60E) six-speed torque converter automatic optimises fuel economy with full converter lock-up on fourth, fifth and sixth gears, along with overdrive on fifth and sixth for relaxed highway driving. It also offers the choice of sequential manual-shifting if required.
​
The live rear axle is equipped with an electronically-controlled automatic limited-slip diff, which optimises the inherent traction advantage of rear-wheel drive.
​
Fuel consumption – How much fuel does it consume?
Toyota claims an official combined cycle average of 8.2L/100km.
​
After 215km of testing, without a load and with the automatic engine stop-start function switched off, our figure based on trip meter and fuel bowsers readings came in slightly higher at 9.8L/100km.
​
This single-digit economy was achieved purely in city and suburban driving, which is thrifty for a large commercial vehicle weighing more than two tonnes.
​
So, based on our figures, you could bank on a ‘real world’ driving range of around 700km from its 70-litre tank.
​
Practicality – How practical is the space inside?
With its 2225kg kerb weight and 3300kg GVM, the HiAce has a genuine one-tonne-plus payload rating of 1060kg, and up to 120kg of that can be carried on the roof using Toyota’s genuine accessory triple-bar roof rack set.
​
It also has a braked tow rating of up to 1500kg and with a GCM (how much it can legally carry and tow at the same time) of 4800kg, it can carry its peak 1060kg payload while towing that weight, which is a versatile set of numbers for a working van.
​
Cargo bay walls and doors are lined to mid-height, the roof is internally lined and there’s ample internal lighting.
​
It’s accessed from either side through sliding doors with 1010mm-wide openings, or from the rear through the barn-doors which are both equipped with demisters/windscreen wipers and can swing open to 180 degrees.
​
Each door also has a simple brace which can hold them at 90 degrees opening if required.
​
The cargo bay offers a sizeable 6.2 cubic metres of load volume, measuring 2530mm long, 1760mm wide and 1340mm high.
​
With 1268mm between the rear wheel housings and six floor-mounted load anchorage points, it can carry up to two standard 1165mm-square Aussie pallets or up to three 1200 x 800mm/1200 x 1000mm Euro pallets.
​
Its spacious driver’s cabin has numerous storage offerings including a large-bottle holder and bin in the base of each front door, small-bottle/cupholders in the centre and on either side of the dash, plus a single glove box.
​
The centre console is well designed, comprising an open storage tray at floor level and a large lidded box between the seats.
​
This not only has cavernous internal storage but there’s also an external shelf at the front, two large-bottle holders at the rear and another shallow tray set into the lid, which when closed can double as a handy work desk.
​
What’s it like as a daily driver?
The big front doors swing wide open to provide easy access to the cabin, where it’s easy to find a comfortable driving position given ample seat adjustment that includes lumbar support, plus a height-and-reach-adjustable wheel and big left footrest.
​
Responsive steering and strong braking, combined with a reasonably supple ride quality when empty or lightly loaded, makes for a comfortable daily work environment.
​
This is enhanced by commendably low internal noise levels for a van without a bulkhead between the cabin and cargo bay. We suspect the full-length roof lining helps here.
​
Like all panel vans, the solid-walled cargo bay creates a huge blind-spot over the driver’s left shoulder which can’t be avoided. And the central join of the barn doors obscures vision through the cabin’s rear-view mirror.
​
However, the portrait-shaped door mirrors are a decent size and combined with a suite of driver aids like blind-spot monitoring, rear cross-traffic alert, rear parking sensors and reversing camera, a competent driver can easily steer clear of trouble.
​
And it has easy manoeuvrability thanks to the tight 11-metre turning circle and lightness of the variable-ratio steering at parking speeds.
​
The 2.8-litre turbo-diesel has good flexibility with strong low-rpm response thanks to its ample 450Nm of torque.
​
The smooth and snappy shift protocols of the six-speed auto optimise engine response, which is most evident in stop-start city and suburban driving.
​
It also delivers relaxed and economical highway travel, particularly with the cruise control activated, with overdrive requiring less than 2000rpm to maintain 110km/h.
​
What’s it like for tradie use?
It’s ironic that a forklift should be out of service on the same day we wanted to test improved forklift access! However, that’s what happened when we went to load up the HiAce for our usual GVM test.
​
Even so, you don’t need to be a forklift aficionado to see that the 180-degree opening will provide clear access to the cargo bay.
​
We also know from experience that the HiAce is a consummate one-tonner, having previously secured 975kg in the cargo bay which with driver equalled the van’s 1060kg payload limit.
​
There was ample rear suspension travel remaining thanks to minimal compression of the robust leaf springs.
​
The engine made light work of hauling this payload, with effortless highway cruising and particularly strong performance in hilly terrain.
​
It never felt sluggish on climbs and engine-braking was excellent on long, steep descents. As a workhorse, the HiAce is difficult to fault.
​
Safety – What safety equipment is fitted? What safety rating?
The current HiAce generation came armed with a maximum five-star ANCAP rating when launched in 2019 and still sets a safety benchmark.
​
There are seven airbags plus a plethora of active features including AEB with day/night pedestrian and day cyclist detection, trailer sway control, hill-start assist, lane departure alert with steering assist, road sign assist, blind-spot monitoring, rear cross-traffic alert, front and rear parking sensors, reversing camera, and more.
​
Ownership – What does it cost to own? What warranty is offered?
The HiAce is covered by a five-yeaunlimited km warranty.
​
Scheduled servicing is set at relatively short six month/10,000km intervals, whichever occurs first.
​
Capped-price of $290 per service covers the first six scheduled services over three years or 60,000km.
​
Source: carsguide

Pls excuse my leg lmao but its the only vid i could take at the time. Noise is coming from the rear. Replaced all the sway bar links, sway bar bushings, rear spring and strut, front spring and strut. Everything is torqued to spec and i cant find any play on the suspension. Another thing is my car makes a popping/clicking sound when i let go of my gas pedal so when the weight transfers from the rear to the front, took it to the dealership and was told it was the front brakes, replaced the rotors and pads and noise still persists on weight transfers. Any input that has dealt and fixed similar problems would be greatly appreciated! And oh this happened a week after i replaced all the shocks and springs.

I have a 2020 outback (took ownership in Oct 2019) with just over 25,000 miles. The last time we had it at the dealer (01/2023) they mentioned that our front inner pads were getting low and should be replaced soon. In the past few weeks the car has started making some noises that I assume are related to the brakes so I purchased new front+rear pads and rotors.
While starting the work today I noticed some odd (to me) wear on the driver's front inner pad and rotor surface:
https://preview.redd.it/w36xy7tu3p4b1.png?width=3939&format=png&auto=webp&s=593092251c032f8410226845e69f66e70f2c3090
https://preview.redd.it/y36gl8tu3p4b1.png?width=3721&format=png&auto=webp&s=6132c172de61d57afaec32746cecbff925338ee5
It seems really strange to need new pads after 25k miles as we're pretty conservative drivers, and I want to make sure we get a long life out of these pads and rotors. Before we start putting miles on the new parts, does it seem that there might be something up with at least one of the calipers? Not only did the inner pad have this wear pattern, but there is uneven wear between the inner and outer pads.
My experience with replacing brakes is pretty limited but while swapping out the parts nothing stood out to me (e.g., stuck caliper slide pins).

2006 Lexus IS 250
What should I get fixed? What do I need to prioritize, and what can wait? I can’t afford to do all of this…
Never worked on cars before, but I’m willing to try. Or is it time to just get a new car?

Modifications: -2007 Honda CRF 250 R Head w/ Kibblewhite Valves and Springs. -CRF 250 R piston. -Hot Cam 1039-1 -Flatland guards - Radiator, skid, front brake disc. -MSR rear brake disc guard. -Suspension serviced by ESP (2/22/23). -BRP top triple clamp w/ Scott’s Damper. -Dr.D Exhaust w/ silencer&spark arrestor. -Sunline SL-1 arched footpegs. -Baja design front headlight. -Shorai lithium battery. -Scott’s stainless steal oil filter. -New TwinAir air filter. -CCC mod’s (closed coarse competition)

Hi all, I’ve noticed water collecting in the track of the rear sliding glass window after heavy rain. The track eventually overflows and water runs down the back of the cab. Any idea where the water could be coming from? I’ve already had the entire window and third brake light replaced by dealer. Thanks in advance.

5 tips to find a first-class example of a secondhand Dodge Viper.
​
https://preview.redd.it/nspzptnvi63b1.png?width=1200&format=png&auto=webp&s=df37c3e53c833087654e9a0c1a946fdfc5727771
I’ve got a Dodge Viper problem. Despite their horrifying fuel consumption, restricted outward visibility, leg-singeing rocker panels, and an exhaust note like a hot-rod UPS truck, I’ve enjoyed driving two of these machines for the better part of 10 years and about 65,000 kilometres to date.
​
My first Viper was a 2000 GTS Coupe. My childhood dream car, we spent five years and about 45,000 kilometres together driving around town, going on road trips, lapping various tracks, and attending car shows and the like.
​
About four years ago I traded this unit in for a 2008 Dodge Viper SRT-10 Coupe. We’ve done about 20,000 kilometres together, partaking in a similar range of activities.
​
I’ve had zero mechanical problems associated with the driveline in either of my cars, and little more than the odd electronic hiccup resulting from a weak battery or wonky sensor. I’ve owned a lot of cars, and my two Vipers have been among the most reliable — second only to my 1993 Nissan 240SX.
​
The key success factor here is that I’ve had both units checked over fully by a qualified ‘Viper Tech’ in a dealer setting, on my dime, before purchase. In both cases, this pre-purchase checkup was worth the investment. For my first Viper, the inspection revealed thousands worth of upcoming repair- and replacement parts which helped me negotiate a much better deal; on my second car, it picked up a dead trunk-release button which the selling dealership fixed on their dime, and also confirmed that this car was in otherwise excellent shape.
​
To be clear: the best thing you can do before buying a used Dodge Viper is to make arrangements to have it seen by a Viper-trained technician in a dealer setting.
​
Still, after a decade of V-10 Mopar motoring, I’ve also come up with some additional tips to share with potential used Dodge Viper shoppers, especially those considering a vintage like mine — that is, the second- to fourth-generation cars.
​
Following these tips can help you enjoy a more trouble-free driving experience and avert potential headaches or surprises with your new toy.
​
Door hinges
​
I’ve found the door hinges in both of my Vipers to be quite fussy, and I’m not alone.
​
In my 2000 GTS, the doors seemed to sag with repeated use over time. The driver’s door hinge eventually needed to be readjusted multiple times to prevent the door from striking the body when closing. The out-of-alignment door hinge also caused damage to the weather seals around the door, resulting in a small water leak.
​
The hinge can be loosened, adjusted, and fastened back into place, but the process is frustrating and somewhat complicated if you’re not the most mechanically-inclined (like me). Professional help may be the best course of action if the Viper you’re considering seems to be suffering from saggy doors; it’s not a difficult job for someone who knows what they’re doing.
​
My 2008 Viper SRT-10 is exhibiting similar symptoms this year. The driver’s door has begun emitting a loud creak when opening fully (or closing), and lubrication of the hinge hasn’t helped. The door is rubbing somewhere, and the hinge needs to be readjusted.
​
Note that leaving this issue unchecked can cause collateral damage to the weather seals (pricey) and window glass (pricier), so you’ll want to address it as soon as you notice any warning signs.
​
These warnings include doors that seem to stick during some portion of their movement, doors that don’t close properly with a light push, doors that fail to engage the striker properly or even bounce back open, doors that require slamming to latch shut, or any used Viper whose door-mounted weather seals are cracked, ripped, or otherwise visibly damaged.
​
In sum: be sure the doors open, close and latch without undue force or noise, and that all weather seals are intact and in solid shape.
​
Powertrain stresses
To prevent undue wrenching of the door hinge, I always start the engine after the doors are closed.
​
Firing up the Viper’s big V-10 twists the car back and forth (it’s all that torque), but can also wrench on the heavy doors and their small hinges, which seems to shift things out place in quick order. With the doors closed at engine startup, this excessive wrenching of the hinges is prevented.
​
Fun fact: during a tour of the Dodge Viper factory, one long-time Viper craftsman told me that the original hinge design was intended to be steel (stronger), though the engineers pushed for a lighter aluminum hinge (softer). In the day, he figured this might cause problems for some owners, and it turns out he was right.
​
“The fifth-generation cars use a different hinge, and the doors are much lighter, since they’re made from an aluminum film that’s shaped by air in a mould” he said.
​
Wheel alignment
​
Dodge Vipers have, I figure, a somewhat unfounded reputation for dodgy handling and being difficult to control. In my opinion, these problems are mainly driver-related (not car-related), but that’s a topic for a different story.
​
Of course, the Viper’s steam-roller tires do try and follow every nook, cranny, and tar-strip on the road, which means the car often seems to be squirming and shuffling even as you drive along in a straight line.
​
Still, don’t underestimate the difference that a proper wheel alignment can make. I recently had one performed in a dealer setting on my 2008 for the first time, and the difference in handling, stability, and response while steering and braking were notable — especially in terms of reduced workload at the wheel. It’s easy to assume ‘this is just how Vipers handle’, though a fresh alignment instantly made my 2008 feel more precise, more responsive, and less labor-intensive to drive on the highway.
​
In my case, the difference was night-and-day. As an added bonus, proper alignment means that the (very pricey) tires won’t wear as quickly.
​
Power windows
​
The power windows on both of my Vipers were finicky and fussy. Compared to most cars, I found the power windows in both of my Vipers to feel and sound harsh when in use. They’ve also been the cause of various headaches, especially in my 2008.
​
This Viper has a feature called window indexing, a fancy way of saying that the window drops a half-inch or so when the door handle is pressed, allowing it to clear the body of the car and for the door to open and close more easily.
​
The indexing function on the passenger side window failed one day, meaning that opening the passenger door meant catching the upper ‘corner’ of the glass inside of the opening, contacting it and wearing down the finish. Closing the passenger door likewise resulted in contact of the window against the body in the same spot.
​
This can all result in wear to the vehicle’s paint, a noisier drive, and an increased likelihood of damaging the Viper’s finicky and sometimes-fragile power window hardware because of an unintended impact.
​
On your test drive, note that one, both, or none of the power windows may be suffering this problem, and that the problem may be sporadic in nature. I can’t offer a fix that’s worked reliably for me, though disconnecting and reconnecting the battery does typically fix the issue for a time.
​
On your test drive, confirm that both power windows work as expected, and be sure to carefully inspect the outer edge of the upper door opening above the window itself for signs of marking, paint damage, or scuffing that indicate contact.
​
Cooling system and overheating
​
Some owners have reported overheating of their Viper, especially in situations with high ambient temperatures, and during sustained periods of heavy-throttle driving, such as in a motorsports setting. Other owners have reported random engine overheating as a possibility from time to time, with a temperature gauge that may suddenly push towards the dangerous red zone on the coolant gauge randomly, and without warning. Many other owners have experienced no overheating issues from their Vipers.
​
Several factors may contribute to a Viper’s engine overheating, as well as inconsistent or seemingly random coolant-temperature fluctuations.
​
To protect yourself and avoid surprises, start with a pre-purchase inspection that includes the used Viper’s cooling system, including the coolant level and condition, an inspection of the water pump and surrounding area (for leaks), all hoses, the thermostat, the cooling fan(s) and associated wiring and relays, and the radiator itself.
​
Have a professional inspect both the engine oil and engine coolant for signs of cross-contamination, which could indicate a head-gasket problem.
​
On your test drive, take note of the coolant temperature gauge at various points. The needle should settle somewhere around the middle of the gauge and stay there, perhaps creeping up slightly over the halfway mark on hotter days. If the gauge suddenly climbs towards the red zone for no apparent reason, the vehicle you’re considering should be seen by a professional before you buy.
​
In this application, an overheating engine can be the result of a simple problem like an air bubble in the cooling system, or a serious one like a failing head gasket. You’ll want to know before you buy.
​
Run the Viper’s heater on your test-drive, too. If functioning properly, the heater will have no trouble pushing a lot of hot air into the Viper’s cabin once the engine is warmed up. If that’s not the case, or if the heat suddenly seems to disappear, have the system checked professionally. Some owners have successfully fixed problems by ‘burping’ air bubbles out of the cooling system. Ask a professional if you’re not sure how.
​
Driveline clunks
​
The Viper’s driveline is not a pinnacle of refinement, and certain noises and vibrations are more prominent than you may be used to. The question is which of these are normal, and which are cause for concern?
​
When checking out the user Viper you’re considering, quiet the cabin and listen for a few specific sounds in a few specific situations to prevent unwanted surprises.
​
First, place the vehicle in neutral with the engine running at idle and the clutch pedal pressed fully. Slowly release the clutch pedal, listening closely for any sign of a scraping, whirring, or grinding sound as the clutch is released. If you hear such a sound, press the clutch pedal in again to see if it goes away. The sound may seem to be coming through the floor near the driver’s feet. This sound can indicate a worn throw-out bearing, a part usually changed with the clutch.
​
I’ve noticed this sound on both of my Vipers. In both cases, it’s remedied by replacing the clutch, which includes a new bearing. You can drive your Viper while it’s making this noise, but if the bearing or associated hardware eventually fails, your clutch may become unusable.
​
You’ll also want to be on the lookout for unwanted sounds from the rear differential. The oil in this component needs to be changed regularly with a specific gear oil and a precise amount of friction-modifying additive. Using the wrong type or amount of gear oil or friction modifier can result in unfavourable consequences, including rear-axle noise. If your rear-axle oil isn’t serviced regularly by someone who knows what they’re doing, you’ll likely be hearing from your Viper’s rear end.
​
When driving a Viper, the differential sits just behind and beneath the driver. Though some whirring and light clunking from time to time is largely considered normal, any binding, whining, or heavy clunks — especially at low speed — can be signs of trouble.
​
Final Thought
These tips are designed to help test-driving shoppers more easily identify possible trouble areas reported by some owners. An attentive test-drive and shopping process that focuses on the areas above can help you find a first-class example of a secondhand 1996-2010 Dodge Viper.
​
Source: driving ca

Hi folks,
1989 Chevy Scottsdale 1500 Pick-up.
https://preview.redd.it/sraxvkevyi4b1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=485ad5b1ede036b1ca18a5cef36c7bfdfc46d3e5
Front disc...gone. Needs pads and rotors, not an issue as that will not be my first rodeo.
That being said, I absolutely hate drum brakes, which of course is rear. Lately, I can feel the passenger rear brake dragging. So today I jacked her up, got her on stands and removed all the wheels to inspect.
Passenger side wheel sure was stuck, took some hammer and some heat to get the wheel off the hub, but got through that. Next I pulled the drums for a look inside.
Two problems, one there appears to be a chip in one of the brake shoes, two I can't get the drums back on...this always happens to me. First I start fucking with the star wheel adjustment, but no matter what I can't get them on. Yes, I've made sure the parking brake is disengaged. Should I turn the star "Up" way from me, or "Down" toward me if I am facing the outside of the hub?
It also appears drivers side rear Brake wheel cylinder has one piston stuck. I'm thinking that's going to be a replacement... Question is, it appears the shoes still have some good meat on them and the inside of the drum looks okay.
A) should I attempt to re-use the shoes, springs, etc. or bite the bullet and replace the whole thing when I go to do the wheel cylinder?
B) any tips on how to get drums back on.
I've included some photos of the chip in the shoe. I appreciate any advice. I'd like to state I am fairly mechanically inclined, but I'm not master tech.
Thank you.