Used f250

We have a small hobby farm and need a pick up for moving small loads of lumber, hay, etc. Weve been using our minivan and im so sick of cleaning it out. A few years ago we had a 2000 f250 v10 4x4 that was great, unless there was mud or ice. It seems to always get stuck. Someone offered to buy it for over 4x what we paid for it, so we sold it. Everything else about it was great, but we have a long dirt driveway in the NE so 1/2 the year is mud or snow. We want to spend as little as possible on an older model. We will probably be using it once a week or so, pretty much for just hauling light loads. But may want to put a small plow on it, just for our property.. Everyone seems to have a strong opinion on trucks. What older models seem to be the most reliable?

Howdy.
Never owned a diesel.
Considering purchasing a used 2016 F250 4WD w/216k miles. On paper, looks decent - lots of service records. Appears well maintained.
I’m very mechanically inclined. Fix most of my own vehicles, unless it’s something I can’t manage without a lift or heavy equipment (engines, trannys, etc).
Watched a lot of videos so far about 6.7 — clearly the best iteration so far.
My thoughts: buy used F250, spend some $$ to bulletproof and proactively replace critical items - possibly turbo, etc.
Curious what the community thinks about evaluating a high mileage truck.
TIA

Looking for a truck, currently using a 2002 f250 super duty with a 6.7 power stroke, it’s beat to hell with 450k miles and the body is rusted. I don’t care about diesel or gas, at most I’m moving 50 sheets at a time. If I can get one for under 25k that’s great, Im a ford guy but I’m opening to anything, I know everybody’s got good models and bad models ( will never own a triton).

I'm not sure where exactly would be best to ask this, as it's heavier duty than most of what projectcar deals with.
I have a certified junkyard fresh mutt, ostensibly a 71 F250, but on an 85 chassis, and built around hauling a camper on the freeway. The rear end is the OE 85 Ford 10.25, with worn out 12x3 drums that I would like to convert to discs. Ford used the 10.25/10.5 up into the Super Duty era, with disc brakes on the newer ones. I've installed aftermarket disc upgrades on customer vehicles, and I haven't found one that I really like. The OE Ford stuff, though, is pretty stout.
My question is, can I just bolt on Super Duty backing plates, calipers, and parking brake guts? I know the lug pattern was different, but I'm equipped to redrill rotors so that's not a big concern. Did they keep the mounting points and distances nominally they same though?

I just ordered a camper for my 2022 F350 short bed crew cab. The camper will weigh around 1800lbs. What tie downs will be best? I had Torklift tie downs on my last truck and camper, but am concerned they will interfere with the door to the fuel fill.
What do you all use for newer F250 and F350 trucks? Does it interfere with the fuel fill door? What's the best solution here?

I'm looking at getting a used truck and camper so I can travel for work. I'm looking at older trucks from the 2000s but I don't know the best configuration. Would a single cab F250 be better or worse than a crew cab? Does bed size matter? What goes into consideration besides the weight ratings and how are those different between the same model truck?
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Signed, someone who is clearly confused!

I bought an '84 Leer six pack for my long bed f250. It's not in great shape but I could use it as-is if I needed to. The electrical works, gas, stove, and toilet/shower functional, etc. I've got a camping trip coming up in May that I'd like to use it at but actually doing the work on it is a slow prospect due to my low energy levels.
I'd like to modernize it where it's convenient to do so, I'm in the process of pulling out the black water tank and toilet to replace them with a cassette setup for ease of use and so I can expand my fresh and gray water tanks. My disability doesn't require a wheelchair or anything but I do use a cane, and balance is an issue for me so just getting up into the bed at the top without falling is a bit of a chore, so handholds are also things I'm putting in.
Any other thoughts or ideas on how to modernize this thing or improve it in any ways? Keep in mind that this toilet project I've been working on for about a week and haven't even gotten the current plumbing out, so no huge overhauls or anything like that because I'm doing this solo and only have the energy to work on this about a half hour per day.
Thanks a ton. I'd post pictures but figured y'all knew what it looks like but I can post a link to a couple if that'll help

Picked up a 7.3 F250 1992 non turbo single cab from a Co worker to use as a farm truck / load truck (not daily driver). I'm 19 not only am I New to Diesels but don't have the best automotive experience aside from dirt bikes. • Where's a Good place to study basic maintenance routine, fluid types, and how to's? I'm having trouble finding a Haynes type manual for it. • any tips on taking care of it for longevity? Glow plug time in cold weather, anything anything. Thxx.

I know and accept that these things are not efficient vehicles, but I just filled up my '19 and got 13.7 for mixed use driving (pretty close to 50/50 city/highway). I'm far from a heavy-footed teenager. During last tank I never had more than two passengers, not a lot of stuff on the back, not towing. That's what my father gets in his F250.

Hello OK,
I didn't know if this was best in a different subreddit or if any of you are versed enough in Department of Transportation laws.
I'm asking this question on behalf of a commercial small business with <100 employees in the automatic door industry.
The fleet of vehicles is a mixed bag of vans, cars, F150 and F250's.
The F250s seem to be getting targeted more and more lately by highway patrol for the driver not having a CDL and the truck not having a DOT number.
The F150s and F250s are not generally hauling any hazmat nor haul/tow beyond even 50% of their GCVW. It's just that the F250 lineup some of those trucks have the bed removed and commercial tool boxes/bed installed aftermarket.
Question I have is what are the requirements by DOT that require a driver to be CDL trained and licensed, and the truck be DOT registered for commercial use?
Thanks in advance

I have a '22 F250 that I ordered with the 397A alternator. I'm wondering how much excess power this produces. I want to charge the LiPo4 batteries I have in my camper while I'm traveling, but I'm not sure how many amps are available after powering all of the truck accessories. I will need to use a DC to DC charger because my batteries on the camper are 24V.

Hey folks. I am the proud owner of a 1990 bronco equipped with a 5.slow and a Mazda 5 speed transmission. I know it, you know it, and ford knows it too, that really isn't the correct drivetrain for a vehicle like this. The 5.0, in its stock configuration, is not enough motor for this truck. And the Mazda 5 speed should never have been put into a full size truck. My vehicles rated towing capacity is 3000 pounds but equipped with a different trans, I think it goes up to 7000 pounds. Having a full size truck that can only pull 3000 pounds is bogus.
The plan : 5.8 Windsor , zf5 trans. . I know it theoretically "bolts up", but I'm quite certain there's more to it than that. For starters, my truck's efi system is speed density, no mass airflow sensor. What needs to happen here? Is it just a computer replacement? The broncos never had a 5.8 with a manual transmission, so would I need a computer from an f250 with speed density efi, a 5.8, and a zf5? So I need all new wiring harnesses, etc?
And the trans. I know the zf5 is shorter than the m50d. Would this mean I need to relocate the transmission cross member? Would I need a new cross member all together? I tossed in a new clutch a couple months ago (in my snow covered driveway in January in corado, it was miserable lol. Burnt up my clutch trying to help my neighbor out of the snow) and she. I removed the cross member, I remember it saying m5od on it, which is the model transmission that's in it. Which makes me wonder is the cross member is specific to the transmission.Also, would I need a new master cylinder specific to that transmission? Also the clutch pedal assembly for that matter? Would my shifter bolt right up? What about the reverse light indicator? I imagine also with the sorter length, I'd need to get some different length driveshafts. Would those need to be custom made or some nonsense like that? Maybe I'd even luck out and be able to get away with using the stock driveshaft from a 1990 5.8 auto bronco if that's the right length? I fuckin doubt it
As far as buying a transmission, that seems straightforward enough. But an engine. There's a few questions there. Let's just say I want a remanufactured engine with all the shit that goes on it (belt driven accessories, intake manifold, misc sensors, etc, where is going to be my best bet? Seems like whenever I look for them I line, I really can't find something complete for my application. Any keywords I need to look at?
What other "gotcha's" should I be on the lookout for? Airbox hoses? Radiator? Would my existing ac just bolt right up? Would my existing axles be chill? Is the power steering pump the same, if not would the steering box need swapped as well?
That ks for any help. I love this truck and I am very excited at the thought of bringing it some new life with a new (remanufactured) drive train. the existing 5.0 is burning oil and not making much power so I'm sure just putting new rings in it and a valve job would help a lot, but that's not nearly as cool as a bigger motor and a heavy duty transmission. But shoot there's a lot of variables at play here
Tha ks love you all

Does anybody have any bad/good experiences with the sunroof on raptors that are used in sand or dirt extensively. This is something I have always avoided on my trucks but it makes it a much nicer place to be.
I run a class 11 Baja and am looking at a 21+ raptor to replace my dead F250. So lots of towing, and lots of towing / recovery in dirt and sand.
Any other must have options. I definitely staying at the 35 tire size and will buy only the full premium 802a? Package but not sure if I am missing anything else.

I have a 2021 f250 with factory fifth wheel prep package. I am planning to purchase a slide in truck camper and do light off-roading.
Any downsides/advantages to having the fifth wheel prep package already installed? I have no plans to use it, but got a good deal on the truck…

Bought a used 2018 F250 in December. Truck appeared to be stock with nothing removed. On a 400 mile trip, at about 200 miles in I got “exhaust filter overloaded. Drive to clean”. Also a CIL with an egr code. Drive the rest of the way plus around 100ish miles while working then the 400 back home with no issue. Took it into the Ford dealership and they told me the truck is deleted but running a stock tune which is why I got the errors. Should I try getting a tuner and retune the truck or just leave it alone. The truck is running completely normal with no other issue

Just had the ball joints replaced on my 2005 F250, uppers and lowers on both front wheels. What's the going rate in your areas? Not sure how to feel about $1400. While it was definitely needed, it wasn't a rush/emergency job as I have a beater I use for work.

I'm looking to purchase a 2008 F250 HD crew cab with 150k kms but I don't have any experience with buying or driving trucks. I plan on using it to haul a trailer that is ~5-7k lbs. What questions should I be asking to the person selling it? I plan on taking it for a test drive of course, but there is only so much I can figure out with my limited knowledge. I will be taking it to a mechanic to have it checked out officially but that's about it. He himself isn't that versed with these trucks so I'm going off of instinct.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I'm looking to purchase a 2008 F250 HD crew cab with 150k kms but I don't have any experience with buying or driving trucks. I plan on using it to haul a trailer that is ~5-7k lbs. What questions should I be asking to the person selling it? I plan on taking it for a test drive of course, but there is only so much I can figure out with my limited knowledge. I will be taking it to a mechanic to have it checked out officially but that's about it. He himself isn't that versed with these trucks so I'm going off of instinct.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Bought a gem 1997 F250 7.3L power stroke. CA has Biodiesel 20 and Diesel 2. I know B20 works well for trucks after 2004 but for these pre 2000 trucks is it better to stick to Diesel 2?? Or will B20 be fine to use? Any additives that I should look into using? Appreciate any feedback from fellow obs owners on tips and tricks to keep the engine running longer.

all right y’all. Bear with me on this one. I’ve had a project 91 F250 with a 7.3 IDI for about 6 months now. it was a yard find that I got started but recently I’ve had no start at all. I changed all the return fuel lines(i do still have a small leak on 2 injectors to fix), Glow plug relays(no more clicking), fuel filter, battery and glow plugs. A while back I heard that unplugging the glow plugs and disconnecting the glow plug relay then using starter fluid would work. and it did a few times! until it didn’t. so now i’m a bit lost. my only guess is too much air is getting in? i thought 2 small leaks would be enough to get it started since i first got it started with horribly placed lines and fuel spraying everywhere.
also could it be actual injectors? looks like lines are getting the fuel it needs. Help!

I have an opportunity to buy a 6.4L 2008 Ford F250 with 125xxxkm for 5 grand Canadian. I'd use it for a fleet truck, should I roll the dice and gamble on it or pass? It runs and drives completely fine right now