I have a Kia soul and in the last week have had it die several times all when I’ve been idling for a bit and then try to drive off, like at red lights and drive thrus. The only thing that pops up is the catalytic converter being clogged. Could this be what’s causing my car to shut off or could it be something else that doesn’t register with an odb2

Car started fine the put it into reverse and it just kinda rolled back made a knocking noise and sounded like something dropped so I put it in park and it made louder knocking noises and it kept rolling back so I pulled the e brake to keep it from rolling into the street.
Now the e brake feels loose and stays on it won’t go all the way off and the car won’t go into gear just stays in “neutral”when shifted and won’t move and the speedometer moves even when I kept my foot on the break
First mechanic I took it to had no idea what this could even be and told me to bring it into a transmission shop they might have an idea
I did have a check engine light on earlier this week code 420 for the catalytic converter that a different mechanic cleared so it wouldn’t be on my dash and he told me to put higher grade gas into my car haven’t yet not sure if this would add to the problem
Any ideas on what this could be?

Trying to identify this cylinder with the line running out of it on the underside of my CRV, it's got a slow leak that seems to be oil. Mounted on the front center of the vehicle, right above the plastic splash shield

Bought my first Honda yesterday a 2023 crv. Dealer doesn’t sell Honda care but recommended this 3600$ 7 year (should say 7) 70000 mile extended bumper to bumper warranty. They say they’re self insured although it’s a different company eg assurance that they say “works for them” and is not a third party insurer. I like the idea of a extended warranty for electronics but honestly I do this so infrequently it isn’t my area of expertise. Neither of the two dealers in our area sell Honda care. Is this normal? Is this a reasonable deal? I feel like I do this so infrequently it isn’t really my area of expertise.

In two days you're driving to Carova beach to meet your in-laws at a rental that you just found out they unknowingly booked 7 miles up a 4x4 beach. They themselves brought a 2wd car and are now stuck at the beach house after catching an expensive ride to the house.
In my attempt to make it to the house is the better option
a) 2014 AWD Honda CRV which with 6.5" clearance pre-deflated
b) 2020 2wd Nissan Frontier with 9" of clearance
c) Stay home
TIA.

Bought my first Honda today! A 2023 crv. Do like the car but on the way out the dealership recommended a 7 (originally I wrote 6 but it is 7) year 70000 bumper to bumper warranty that is about 3600 dollars and firm. Don’t sell honda care and neither does the other dealership in our area. They say the price is the price and about 90 percent of their customers buy it. What do you guys think? Is this normal? Is it a reasonable deal? I do this so infrequently it doesn’t feel like my area of expertise.

So I have a 2018 Kia Forte with ~100K on it. I had gotten it about 6 months ago from a private seller after moving to the US.
As soon as I signed the paperwork and was driving off with the car, the person who had sold me the car called me and told me the check engine light may come on. They reassured me it was just an issue with the O2 sensor and it just needed to be replaced — pretty annoying of them to not disclose that when I was looking at the car.
Fast forward 3 months later. The car has been driving fine despite the O2 sensor issue. Then I’m driving one day, and the car appears to lose power and come back to life. So I pull over and realize the battery connection seems to be loose. I tighten the connections and bring it to a mechanic just to be safe. The mechanic tells me that the car most likely shut off because of the battery connection issue. He told be that the clamp that holds down the battery was missing so the battery was probably wobbling while driving. He also said it could be the catalytic converter or and issue with the O2 sensor. They had also told me that there was some welding work done under the car (which the previous owner also hadn't told me about). They said replacing the O2 sensor should not be too expensive however, if its an issue with the catalytic converter that I would probably need to shell out quite a bit of money considering there was also welding done there. None the less, he clamped down the battery and I told him I would monitor to see if there are any further issues. Great, I fixed the issue and now the car should be fine! Right?
Fast forward 2.5 months later. The car dies randomly again. This time I'm stressed out and get AAA to replace the battery on the side of the road. They tell me that the battery needed to be replaced and it was the wrong battery for my car. They say that the battery was too large for my engine bay and that the lead wires where overextended which probably caused the issue. Great, I fixed the issue and now the car should be fine! Right?
Fast forward a week later and the car dies randomly again. That was today :(. At this point I am very defeated, stressed and scared to drive the car. I would really appreciate some help from the wise kind people of reddit. This is the first time I had purchased a car so I suppose I have a bit more anxiety dealing with these issues, plus the mounted pressure of being in a new place/country. All this to say, any advice would appreciated more than you think. Since I moved to a new area, I also don't personally 'know' a mechanic. I've since reached out to my neighbour to get recommendations. I plan on bringing the car to a mechanic today.
---
Some additional info/questions:
[1] More information about the issue: When replacing the battery, AAA had tested the alternator and said it was fine. When the car dies, it is very sudden, the lights stay on, it seems like its just the engine that shuts off. When it does shut off, I am able to restart the car instantly (i.e. all I have to do is put the car in park and restart the ignition and its fine). Sometimes when the car dies, it is very subtle (i.e. no noticeable noises). Other times there is a large thud, but I suspect this is caused by the engine mis-firing as a result of it dieing). I am not capable of consistently reproducing the issue (i.e. I have tried driving fast/slow, accelerating/decelerating fast/slow, driving uphill/downhill, etc. and it does not trigger the issue). Also, the times that the car has died has been random (i.e. driving fast, rolling, driving slow, accelerating, etc.). I purchased an OBD2 reader to try and diagnose the issue. The only code I get is "catalyst system efficiency below threshold" which is either the O2 sensor or catalytic converter.
[2] My hypothesis: Given that the car shuts off completely randomly I think that there may be a loose electrical connection somewhere. I think if the car had some other major issue it would show up on the OBD2 readings. I think if it where an issue with the catalytic converter then the issue would be easily reproducible. Regardless, I am going to ask the mechanic to replace the O2 sensor to root cause if it is in fact an issue with the catalytic converter. However, I still find it strange that so much time passed for issues to arise. I am a pretty technical person, so any hypothesis/things to check are greatly appreciated. Also, is it worth bringing the car to a dealership to get checked? I've read in MechanicAdvice that dearships are generally more expensive but can do a very thorough job.
[3] Selling the car: Part of me wants to sell the car to get this weight off my chest; but I also don't want to sell the car if it's not in good shape. I want to be confident that the car is in good working order before I sell it so that I know whoever buys it won't have any issues and will be safe driving it. I have never sold a car before, what are peoples opinions on 1. Selling it fixed vs. 2. Selling it with the issues and disclosing them. I don't want to be like the person who sold me the car originally.
[4] Contacting the original seller: When I had brought the car to the mechanic the first time and explained how the original seller had called me about the check engine light, he had told me I might have a case in small claims court. Is this a common approach for folks in the US? Since this is my first car / since I am from Canada, I don't know what the etiquette is here for an issue like this. Some additional problems: -- I don't have any proof since the seller called me to tell me about the O2 issue. -- I don't have proof that they didn't disclose the issues/welding work during the sale. -- They did provide me the contact information of there mechanic since I told them I was new to the US. Could I get information that way? -- Do I have a case if 6 months went by without issues?
Thanks in advance for the help!

So just like the title says I've had my engine light on for about 2 yrs now. I know that's not great but I've had the codes read and done repairs on what was given back. At this point I've just excepted it being on and that I probably need a new catalytic converter which I'm not buying. The reason I'm posting now is because after it being consistently on minus the few days after it leaves a shop it just randomly turned off on the way home today. I don't know if my car randomly decided to "fix" itself or if I should actually be worried now since I'm so use to it being on haha. So any advice is welcomed

Anyone know honda civic? My boyfriend has a 1999 trying to learn how to learn how to fix it and add stuff. His “friend” promised him help on it because he knows hondas, but dont help. His car problems because who had it before treated it like shit. had a different cars wheel on it even. He really needs help. hes a young kid tryna learn and we dont know anybody around here to help. if theres anyone willing to help and show him what to do thats be amazing. he wants this as a career and hobby. I want the best for him and i know hed really appreciate it.

Hi all,
I would like to convert my old CRV to and off-road vehicle that I can take onto unmaintained logging roads and use for other light off roading (mainly used for hunting). Curious to get this communities thoughts and any suggestions.
Here’s what I have in mind:

• 3” lift (for additional clearance)
• plastidip paint job
• Thule roof deck with tent add on
• Considering removing the rear seat and creating a deck surface in this area.
• rims and tires to match the lift (any suggestions? Not sure if I could use the factory rims….

Is there anything I should be aware of here? Other than “it’s a CRV you pansy, buy a truck!”
Thanks everyone

I can't afford rent, I barely scrape by with my independent catalytic converter recycling business. Plus I love the view of the mountains so I always know when freshies are coming. Can any fellow natives help me out?

Preface:

I, and I believe most seablock players prefer to use catalytic metallic ore production due to its single-output simplicity to the point of dropping mixed ore production like a hot potato at the earliest opportunity. While this is a completely viable way of playing, I thought I would try and crunch some numbers to see just how much efficiency we are loosing by not using mixed sorting, how productivity modules impact this efficiency, and if its possible to come up with an optimized 'hybrid' setup (spoiler: it is).
If you are interested in the entire thing, go ahead and give it a read.
If you are only interested in the proposed hybrid design, go to 'Proposed hybrid setup'.
If you just want the 30sec proposal, go to the TL/DR.

Terms:

• Catalytic ore sorting: 2-3 bob's ores are combined with a catalyst to give a single type of metallic ore)
• Mixed ore sorting: 1 type of bob's ore is sorted into a mix of metallic ores and (except in the case of purified ore) some slag.
• Max productivity: All recipes that allow for productivity have been fit with T3 (highest) productivity modules in the factory that allows the most modules. In this particular case this includes all ore crystallizers (with +24% productivity) and all ore sorting facilities (with+36% productivity)

Limitations:

• Both mineral sludge and crystal seedling are assumed to be equal - as in the complexity of their production are not counted and are instead considered to be the same 'input fluid' (aka: calculations were done with 100 'input fluid' as the source, be it 100 mineral sludge or 89 mineral sludge + 11 crystal seedling)
• Any crushed stone produced throughout the process is ignored. Mixed ore sorting will naturally produce ~10-50% more crushed stone (usually closer to 10 than 50), but this translates to only 1-5% (once again, usually closer to 1 than 5) metallic ore production at the end.
• Slag produced as waste in mixed ore sorting is re-inserted into production as extra mineral sludge. NOTE! This results in needing up to 50% more filtration units & sulfur processing for mixed ore sorting - will be discussed in results.
• Any geodes produced throughout the process are also ignored, for much the same reasons.
• Any waste water & acids input/output are also ignored.
• Ferric & Cupric processes are not covered.

Values:

100 input fluid (mineral sludge + crystal seedling) is provided into the process. Percentage output calculated assuming 4 metallic ore out (0 prod module, 25 input fluid -> 1 bob's ore -> 1 metallic ore).
For mixed ore sorting the input is 100% mineral sludge, and the produced slag is converted into slag slurry which goes straight back as 'input fluid' and read as % of input. For example: 25% of input as slag slurry means that for 100 input fluid you will get 25 slag slurry back from the slag byproducts which means that the total 'input fluid' being used for ore production is 125 (100 input, 25 return).
Catalytic ore sorting:

• T1 (iron/coppetin/lead): 3.556 metallic ore (89%), input is 100% mineral sludge.
• T2 (silicon/nickel/aluminum/zinc/silver): 3.556 metallic ore (89%), input is 8:1 mineral sludge to crystal seeding.
• T3 (titanium/gold/cobalt/uranium/tungsten): 3.429 metallic ore (86%), input is ~13:1 mineral sludge to crystal seedling.

Catalytic ore sorting with max productivity:

• T1 (iron/coppetin/lead): 5.996 metallic ore (150%), input is 100% mineral sludge.
• T2 (silicon/nickel/aluminum/zinc/silver): 5.996 metallic ore (150%), input is 8:1 mineral sludge to crystal seeding.
• T3 (titanium/gold/cobalt/uranium/tungsten): 5.946 metallic ore (149%), input is ~16:1 mineral sludge to crystal seedling.

Mixed ore sorting:

• T1 (crushed ores): 3.750 metallic ore (94%), returns 25% of input as slag slurry
• T2 (ore chunks): 3.845 metallic ore (96%), returns 15% of input as slag slurry
• T3 (ore crystals): 3.892 metallic ore (97%), returns 11% of input as slag slurry
• T4 (purified ore): 4.000 metallic ore (100%), no slag slurry return.

Mixed ore sorting with max productivity:

• T1 (crushed ores): 7.635 (191%), returns 50% of input as slag slurry
• T2 (ore chunks): 7.250 (181%), returns 29% of input as slag slurry
• T3 (ore crystals): 7.098 (177%), returns 20% of input as slag slurry
• T4 (purified ore): 6.750 (169%), no slag slurry return

Results

• Without modules using catalytic ore sorting results in a 5-10% loss of efficiency, which is quite worth it in order to not have to deal with mixed products and the additional logistics necessary to prevent overflows of some ores from preventing production of other ores.
• With max productivity using catalytic ore sorting results in a 13-27% loss of efficiency, which is in the ballpark of 'might be worth optimizing'.
• With max productivity the most efficient mixed ore sorting is actually T1 (crushed ores) which result in only 2 metallic ores + slag (returned) which is 27% more efficient than catalytic ore sorting!
• With max productivity the least efficient mixed ore sorting is now T4 (purified ore) which is also the one most difficult to process due to producing 6 types of metallic ores while being only 13% more efficient than catalytic ore sorting.
• Max productivity mixed ore sorting for T1 is thus the best candidate for optimization, being both the most efficient option and having only 4 ores to potentially balance (as opposed to T4 with its 14+ ores and decreased efficiency).
• The 'efficiency' of mixed ore sorting over catalytic ore sorting comes mainly from the recirculation of slag, the production of which is influenced by productivity modules. This leads to a 1:2 filtration requirement (mineral sludge from returning slag : mineral sludge from water via electrolysis/geode)
• Keep in mind that slag recirculation is 'added complexity', much the same way as balancing metallic ores is. For mega-base design where simplicity quite often is key, using catalytic sorting is the 'optimal' choice much the same way that 'electrolysis I' becomes the 'optimal' choice.

Current ore sorting methods:

1. Pure catalytic sorting:
   1. the most simple solution - all metallic ores (except for chrome which isnt covered here) are produced via catalytic sorting and thus no balancing of metallic ores is necessary.
   2. recommended for place-and-forget designs and megabases, especially for situations where the actual ratio of metallic ore consumption is expected to vary over time (aka: when you are still processing through the tech tree, building the base, producing modules)
2. Pure mixed sorting:
   1. Maybe as a challenge run? Highly not recommended otherwise due to the complexity involved with balancing 14+ ores produced in 22-24 mixed ore recipes.
   2. At the very least some catalytic sorting is recommended to act as 'extra input' for situations where only 1 type of ore is needed.
   3. Alternatively a method for getting rid of any overflow is necessary, be it in the form of void chests or biteworm/artillery based warehouse cleanup. (Is it possible to set up an automated artillery target via mods to shoot artillery at a warehouse when it gets full???)

Proposed Hybrid setup:

1. Going to have to try this at some point - makes use of the 27% efficiency boost of T1 (only) mixed ore sorting with the typical catalytic sorting for all other metals.
2. Ore requirements for RGBPPYW science at 3.6k SPM is roughly 5200/sec broken down as: 1150 iron, 1150 copper, 500 silicon, 350 tin, 300 tungsten, 310 aluminum, 260 nickel, 230 fluorite, 190 titanium, 160 zinc, 150 silver, 120 gold, 85 manganese, 78 cobalt, 56 lead, 42 chrome, 25 platinum. This is for T3 ingots (all), maxed productivity, and the following smelting: T1+2 iron, T4 steel, T3 solder, T3 titanium, T3 aluminum, T3 brass, T2 tungsten powder mixture, T3 glass.
   1. Out of the important ones we have 1150 iron & 1150 copper - ideal for mixed sorting. Lead-nickel and Tin-silicon are also possible!
   2. Best option? Mixed ore sorting for crushed saphirite & stiratite (for iron & copper), mixed ore sorting for lead & tin (with nickel & silicon being used as priority), and catalytic sorting for everything else.

Design:

1. Crushed saphirite & stiratite go to mixed sorting, with the copper & iron ores balanced out between the two (set up 2 warehouse for iron & copper ore respectively, stop sorting saphirite if iron warehouse is over 50% full, stop sorting stiratite if copper warehouse is over 50% full)
   1. iron & copper ores also have a 'priority input' coming from the waste processing of science
2. Crushed rubyte goes into mixed sorting to produce all the lead necessary, with nickel byproduct going to nickel production site as 'priority input'.
3. Crushed bobmonium goes into mixed sorting to produce all the tin necessary, with silicon byproduct going to silicon production site as 'priority input'.
4. 6x2 bob's ores (chunks & crystals of saphirite, stiratite, jivolite, rubite, crotinium, and bobmonium) go towards catalytic sorting (T2+ ores only, T1 all taken care of)
   1. nickel & silicon both have a 'priority input' coming from the mixed sorting for lead and tin respectively. In the case of nickel we can expect maybe 10% to come from mixed sorting, while in the case of silicon it goes up to 35%
5. Overall savings? ~56% of all ores will be produced through the highest efficiency T1 mixed ore sorting process while the remaining 44% will be produced through the least efficient (but most simple in terms of logistics) catalytic sorting process. This results in an overall 15% efficiency increase for the water->metallic ores stage.
6. What about without productivity modules? Well - the efficiency increase is still there, but it is only a modest 5% overall for the water->metallic ores stage.
7. Right, should also mention that doing this will result in needing ~12% more filtration plants to convert the slag into mineral sludge. But that should be worth it for a 15% decrease in geode/electrolyzer setups.

TL/DR:

Next time you play seablock, see if you can set up a mixed sorting setup for the basic 4 ores (iron, copper, tin, lead) via crushed saphirite, stiratite, rubyte, & bobmonium ores. Any extra nickel & silicon will then be used as priority in the next stage. All other ores (aluminum onwards) will be produced via catalytic process as per usual. This should make 56% of your ore sorting be the more efficient mixed kind, without having to do a deep dive into the logistical nightmare of balancing 14+ ores from 23-24 mixed ore sorting recipes.
PS: process any produced slag to mineral sludge - this is vital to get the most out of mixed ore sorting!
PSS: you can either process crushed stone to mineralized water and then to saphirite & stiratite for an additional 6-10% boost, or just void it - your choice.