Spark plugs 2011 chevy malibu

Is there a mechanism for reporting (non-vine) likely fake reviews? I was looking at recently listed "KAX" spark plugs. The one I was looking at had no reviews so I went to the 'kax" amazon store and saw about about 50 listings for their different spark plugs sets, most unreviewed and newly listed on vine, and about a dozen of which had one review.
The reviews look (are) fake since the dozen" different" people review used very similar phrasing often just a few reviews of same products, , eg three "different" reviewers of this brand plugs have a total of three to four reviews on Amazon --ever -- yet happened to have reviewed same t-shirt and shorts in addition to this brand of plugs. Same with the rest of the reviewers of any of these plugs, they happen to have also had reviews of same exact products.

I'm in college, my budget is very limited, but I do have a 2013 Chevy Spark to trade in. My main criteria are being under $10k, not needing any expensive work, under 200k miles, and looking good only as a bonus since it would be my daily. These are some listings I've found recently:

• 2005 Honda Civic LX, $3,500, 198,279mi
  • Notable work: paint chips, new battery, alternator, wheels, radiator, timing belt, and brake pads
• 2001 Kia Optima LX, $5,991, 129,973mi
• 2004 Toyota Corolla LE, $5,200, 140,846mi
• 2004 BMW 3 Series 325Ci, $5,900, 164,848mi, manual
  • Notable work: Accident history (can't view it), new oil filter
• 1998 Honda Accord EX, $5,991, 151,672mi
• 1986 Honda Civic 1500, $4,999, 123,121mi
• 2004 Honda Civic LX, $4,400, 162,777mi
  • paint chips
• 2000 Toyota Corolla VE, $4,995, 101,981mi
• 2009 Honda Accord EXL, $4,900, 186,000mi
• 1997 Honda Civic DX, $4,500, 133,490mi
• 2005 BMW 3 Series 325i, $4,499, no miles listed
• 2011 BMW 3 Series 328i xDrive, $6,899, 183,413mi

All of these are from used dealerships as I'd kind of need to trade in with my Spark.

My neighbor has this lawnmower and it starts, runs a few seconds then shuts off! We have changed;
the filter the spark plug even the carburetor
However it still gives the exact same problem!We ran out of ideas and have pretty much given up on YouTube so I am posting here for a possible solution before he decides to take it in to a repair shop! Any help would be appreciated!

2000 honda accord 2.3 manual trans. Car accelerates normally but when I'm sitting at any rpms it'll seem like the power cuts and stutters until I gas it. Throws codes about misfiring for all cylinders and random misfires. Checked the ignition system and it's all fine. Right now I'm checking the fuel level/pump but I don't have a pressure gage. Hear it can also be the Egr system, going to check it next. I'm thinking it'll be the egr valve, I'm having issues passing emissions with this car. Sat around for awhile cause I swapped the engine and I was told to drive it for 2 weeks to get it ready, but I couldn't pass. I replaced the air filter, pcv valve, spark plugs and wires, both o2 sensors and did a fuel treatment and it still didn't pass.

Right now i’m driving a 2007 Mazda 3 2.3 that has a misfire on cylinder 4. I already changed out the spark plug and it was fine but then the check engine light came back on and it’s still cylinder 4. Any tips? Is there something im missing or that I could’ve done wrong? I did change out the rest of the spark plugs too.

So I've been looking around on the internet and the information that I seem to find regarding the spark plugs is that the ngk silzkr6d8e is the correct spark plugs for this car. However I just took out my spark plug and read the number on it It is a ngk silzkr8e8g, so which one is it? And would I be fine with the 6d8e?

I just bought a used 2014 ktm 85, which was running rich and bogging. I was trying to fix this, by adjusting the air screw, when all of a sudden it just started revving to the moon. I started it a couple times after that, and it just kept on revving to the moon. Now when i try to kick it over, it doesn't want to start. When I try to bump start it, it almost starts but dies before it can turn over. The gas is a bit low, so that might be the issue to it not starting. The guy I bought it from said that the top end was ridden for 3 hours, and there is a brand new spark plug and oil change in it too.
Would it revving to the moon be the throttle sticking, or some other issue? Any help appreciated! Thanks!
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Hello chaps,
So, my computer (Windows, Asus TUF Gaming) works pretty well but these last two days it occasionally didn't pick up that the charger was plugged in. This was easily remedied by just turning the plug around. I thought it was some simple wear and tear.
But then when I tried turning the plug around just now, I see a new, small, circular hole in the cable and it starts making sparking noises. I unplug it, of course, and don't dare plug it back in.
I do wonder if it's possible to keep using the charger (with some kind of fix), or if it's a lost cause and I need a new one. If I need an entirely new one, awkwardly enough I don't know exactly how to find the specific one I need. I've already tried several others I had in my house but none fit. Worst case scenario, are there any USB B chargers out there?
Thanks!

I've got a 2005 Suzuki Drz125L, and it's having a problem where whenever I hit the throttle it backfires like crazy, I thought it was running to lean/rich,but I went through and cleaned and returned the carb and nothing changed, I've gone through and change my coil and spark plug wire, and went through and looked in the top end and everything. Bike starts up 1st kick, any help is appreciated.

I picked up an old Ferris 48” walk behind (model no. BG14KA, which I cannot find anywhere on internet) as a part of a deal.
I started by seeing if it had spark, it did not. So far I have replaced the igniter, and coil in an attempt to replace bad parts.
With the kill wire connected to the coil, there is no spark, but it will tickle my finger in the plug boot.
With the kill wire disconnected, I get a significant shock if I stick my finger in the plug boot, but no visible spark out of 3 different plugs.
The plugs have been tested and all show visible spark in a working mower.
After replacing the parts, I stuck the plug back in leaving the kill wire disconnected from the coil, and tried using the pull start with some starting fluid. The exhaust seems to shoot small puffs of white smoke, which to me means combustion, but the engine will not crank and I still don’t see visible spark.
I’m really not sure where to go from here, any input is appreciated, thank you. I am not a small engine tech by any means.

Can you reuse the park plug when you take it out to check the color or is it no good once you take it out? A YouTube video I watched said replace it when taking it out.

I have a yamaha jog rr 70cc and it used to hit 65 in its powerband which was almost instant to full throttle. About a week ago while riding its air filter fell off and i had to ride it back without one. After putting a new one on the bike was still bogging and sputtering and strugglet to go 35mph (would still hit powerband and climb to 60 when going downhill for long enough time) i cleaned out my carb and replaced the spark plug and it started on first kick but died after a second or two. I inspected the fuel line which had a huge bubble in it so i thought it was a fuel issue but on taking the carb apart again to make sure i put everything in right there was fuel in it so i am not sure what the issue is. Can anyone help?

Hey guys. So, I've got quite a problem here. Though, as the title indicates, I might have a solution - I just want to know if it's ridiculous.
(Long paragraphs ahead. Tl;dr available)
Tl;dr - I've been given a Macbook Air 2011 (11") and I've wiped the drive. I can boot into internet recovery, but can't install the OS. Startup Disk doesn't detect my installation USB drives, and internet recovery reinstallation only comes up with "Recovery server could not be contacted". If somehow I could install Windows or Linux on this thing, could I install Mac OS through there?
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Context:
I have recently been given a 2011 Macbook Air (11"). It was all fine and dandy, until the person who had given to me (along with my suggestion) allowed me to 'reset' / reformat the laptop. Coming from windows machines, I thought this would be easy. Plus, I did a bit of searching, and saw that the process of installing MacOS after erasing the original disk would've been easy enough. It WAS easy enough, but the hard part now is that I can't find a way to install MacOS.

• I've tried installing using a bootable USB made through TransMac (I don't have any other mac machines) + a DMG of both High Sierra (the OS that the laptop had before I wiped it), and another time using a DMG of Lion (the OS that the laptop originally had seemed to ship with). But, none of them have come up within the 'startup disk' options, which was weird, because when I went through the terminal to find them using diskutil; the USB that I had plugged in was there and had all the right information. The USB was even detected in disk utility, but it just wasn't being detected on startup disk. I also tried doing 'diskutil mount' to the USB(s), but still, to no avail. Nothing also came up when I booted the Macbook up by pressing the option/alt key trying to get to a screen that's supposed to ask me which disk to boot from. All possible key combinations would only send me into the wifi selection screen before it boots me into internet recovery mode.
• I've also tried internet recovery, both in the mode where it installs High Sierra, and in the mode where it installs Lion; but both of them come up with an error "The recovery server-" 'cannot be reached' (paraphrasing). I heard that this was because both versions of Mac are so outdated that Apple doesn't properly store copies of them on their servers anymore, so one solution was to set the date in terminal, and I've tried all sorts of dates, but none of them have seemed to change the outcome of using internet recovery mode's "Reinstall Mac OS" options.

NOW: I have been wondering if the process of installing Windows 7, 8.1, 10, or even Linux first (I run Pop OS on my main machine, so I have no problem having to fuss around with that if it means I'll be out of this OS-less purgatory) and THEN trying to install a Mac OS installer (somehow) on there and installing it from within Windows / Linux would actually work? Heck, would I even be able to install any OS at all, given that I can't even choose which disk to boot into in startup disk?
Sorry if this was all quite long-winded. I've been at this for a week now with about two browser windows and like 150 tabs, and I've done all the things that I've seen on the internet; save for perhaps taking out the SSD and replacing it or something, if it's been compromised. I've even gone through three different USB Drives to use the install media onto (granted, all using TransMac), some USB 2.0 and some USB 3.0 just to give myself the best of chances. Do note; I have high hopes that I'll still be able to salvage the hardware on this since it's still fully functional. I've just naively flubbed the OS erasure. I just really hope that I could continue to use Mac OS on this thing, or at the very least: any OS. Would be a waste of metal if I couldn't, and wouldn't be nice on my conscience to know that I've done this to the macbook when it was completely functional and working through a High Sierra install just before I wiped the darn disk, haha.
Is this a hopeless situation? Thanks.

(1994 4Runner 3VZE A/T 4WD)
As the title says, I just pulled out of the driveway yesterday and the CEL came on. Read the code and it was a 12. Unfortunately, the FSM is pretty cryptic about what it says for this code.

Open or short in NE, G circuit • Distributor • Open or short in STA circuit • ECM

(Anyone know what NE, G, or STA circuits stand for?)
So I recognize one of those words "Distributor" so I started looking at my distributor - put my hand on it and it gave me a shock! The shock was similar to when I had a cracked spark plug wire. So my first thought was spark plug wires. One at a time I unplugged each spark plug wire from the distrubutor and checked to see if I would get zapped again (stupid I know). I got zapped every time as I sequentially removed spark plugs so I'm guessing its not the wires but either the cap, rotor, or something with the coil.
I turned the car off, and removed the cap and some of the electrodes were kinda corroded. Some flakes came off of them. I gave them a good scrape with some 220 grit sandpaper and put it all back together, wiped the codes, but the CEL came back on.
Does anyone have any thoughts or past experiences here? Caps/rotors are cheap so already ordered one - should come in a week (rural Canada). I'll try to mist some water in there tn to see if I see where the arcing is coming from.

What the heck is wrong with my truck?
Excuse my grammar I’m on mobile.
I have multiple questions regarding my truck. I have a 1993 Ford F-250 with the ol reliable 4.9L 300 inline six.
Except mine is incredibly unreliable.
I bought this truck because my old truck ( 1990 K2500 5.7L 350) kept blowing transmissions ( 700R4). The first one I have no idea how it happened, the second one I accidentally overfilled ( live & learn), the 3rd one roatated 90° ( etc etc off topic)
So my questions regarding my 300 require backstory I will try to keep it short.
I actually drove it in November ( best friend’s brother got a dui & got evicted so I had to help him move his crap)
My chevy crapped out again in January so I bought my friends 300.
I drove it home without fluids ( I have a whole tiktok on it lol). It has no exhaust whatsoever, just the 2 pipes ( one comes from the read of the headers it looks like, the other from the front) it’s all stock & the 02 sensor is still in place just looks hacked off. However, the cat & muffler are connected by this singular hose to I think the EGR or the rear of the engine ( haven’t fully looked).
I bought glass packs & planned on straight piping it ( hate me I know).
It ran fantastic! Until about mid February. It had a hole in the fuel tank so I bought a “ new” tank & I replaced the fuel filter ( it was terrible! I have a tiktok on that as well). I then changed the oil, spark plugs & spark plug wires, roater & cap, fuses, pullys , relay, doors, fenders, vaccume lines, terminals & the battery cables.
It goes through serpentine belts about once a month ( I believe it’s the alternator pully)
Now i can start it up. Run it cold & it runs meh. I can go 50mph but the second I stop or it warms up it stalls like crazy. The only fix was replacing the spark plugs again. I towed about 1500lbs of gravel & it ran fine. Then 2 weeks later it stalls again once it hits operating temperature. Could it be the fuel pump?
Here are my questions.

1. I’ve read there is a lot you can “ delete” on the 300. What will a egr delete do? Pros?cons? function? I don’t mind a check engine light
   
2. What could be causing the stalling? It’s only after I get into 2nd or 3rd & then stop at a stop sign or traffic light ( if I even get to town)
   

I tend to play parts magnet but my only 2 guesses are timing ( I know it’s gear on gear but i have no idea what that means) and the fuel pump.

1. Any other advice on these engines ( 4.9 300l6) would be nice

I’m a self taught “mechanic” so I’m still learning & I just want my truck to run reliable.

Hey everyone I really need some help on an ongoing issue I been having over a year and half. I have a 2005 Corolla that has gotten me stranded more times than I can count due to a crank no start issue. I have had it inspected by many different mechanics and no one can find out the source of the problem.
I have had spark plugs changed, the starter, and a diagnostic check on the car but nothing is indicating what is causing the crank no start. The crank no start is pretty irregular and happens at the most inconvenient times but I hope someone can help me I am out of options.
My mechanic said it could be the fuel pump but is not too sure. The engine also is getting spark when the car is being cranked so that can’t be the issue.
Does anyone have any ideas?